GrimGreg

Cranking them up will make the / \ worse.

I always just use an open end wrench on that one.

Why I stick with stock rubber. My thought, it lasted this long and wasn't squeaky, should last just as long the second time around.

Why I'm scared, though, I still can't even get the LEDs to flicker on my ECU.....

Looking at your second pic, and from what you said, you should check the spot on the lower front of the wheel-well. It looks like you have the common rust there also, if that opens up then you'll be spraying all kinds of crap into the body off the tire.

I would drill a couple holes back in for clean out. BTW, there is a nice hose attachment you can buy that does well for cleaning our frames out, it is called, "Massojet". It's made by Staun, and they have a couple varieties, but they have a small angled spray tip that fits right in the holes in the frame.

Compression test is the most effective, but won't tell you if you have a cracked head or blown gasket, only that there is a loss in compression (which could also be a ring or valve issue). Since you said you aren't seeing any mixing of coolent and oil IF it is blown it isn't near a water jacket or oil passage, which would be uncommon since they tend to blow out at a thinner spot. Pull your coil wire and hold the end near a ground point on the engine while someone cranks the engine, the spark should be bluish, if it is yellow or white it is weak. Pull the distributor cap and check for any scortching on the contacts inside and on the rotor. While doing the compression test, check your plugs for fouling. Check your plug wires for any cracking in the insulation that may be arcing out your spark before it gets to the plug....

You can run the same tires no prob, and they will stick out a bit more. As for mpg, what are you running now? The steelies aren't that much heavier than an equivelent sized aluminum. heck depending on the wheel, some aluminums are actually heavier.

I wouldn't mind a pre-cut repair panel, but I can get material and cut my own for WAY less than $80, more like $20 for the material for both sides. As for the repair, it should be just fine, they seam to rust on the outboard side more than the inboard, and the top and bottoms tend to be fine because of the overlap. BTW, take a hammer and tap along the rest of the frame rail, from the looks of that section, you probably have some spots by the body mounts along the frame also.

IIRC you can also swap a steering wheel from a 240sx with no issues (not sure about other models, but I think I remember someone saying they did that swap). As for the mirrors, we had 2 options, power or manual, the only other option over-seas was a power folding mirror.

I would doubt you blew a gasket or cracked the head. If you are running hot, you might have a bad thermostat. As for the miss, it could be unrelated and just be that you got some water in the wiring/distributor when you blew the hose.

Waitting t hear from my Step-Dad, he's a mechanic at a Nissan dealer (he works on the non-Nissans that come in), one of his tech buddies there has a bunch of spare parts, and is well versed in the VGs. My Step-Dad will probably come down here this comming weekend to help me give it a once over and find the problem.

There were 2 standard gears that they made at that time, one that went with the 4.3 axel gearing and one that went with the 4.6 axel gearing. If it is getting chewed up, you might want to pull the T-case and open it up and see that there isn't any debris getting flung around inside, and that the drive gear inside is in good shape.

There is about 1/2"-3/4" space above the headliner. There are no cross supports on the front part, just at the windsheild and at the B pillar (dome light area). So, you might want to glue in a piece of wood under the roof for some added rigidity when you mount it. Here is a picture of my 88 with the liner out (I added the insulation in there, not stock):

Yeah, as long as you do it right (with the X pipe) it will be functional. Hard part is finding the space to put the X pipe without it hanging down too far.

Just avoid the "well, um" while driving, especially if she is prone to lock jaw.....

If anything the shifter might be off. When my 93 was broke into they yanked the shifter back (had the shift lock on it) and it wouldn't work afterward. It may be as simple as adjusting the cable for you though....?

Yeah, the optical pickup in there.

My Pacesetters were pretty painless to install, no fitment issues at all. For the crossover pipe, I installed it while the headers were still just loose on the engine, so I could move them a little. Then I went back and tightened all the nuts on the engine. Only thing I had to do was rebend the EGR tube to the correct angle to thread on straight.

Nope, didn't fix it. Thinking maybe crank angle sensor now...?

I think I found the problem, I put my tester on the connections at the back of the ignition switch and there is power from the battery there, but when there should be power comming out to the ECU there is no voltage. Going to run the the yard and see if I can get a switch to swap in and hopefully fix it!

The bypass is no where near the heater core.

You might be able to do it with just pulling the idler pully bracket off, but it will still be a PITA.

You should have 2 different temp sensors, one for the ECU and one for the guage.

Temp fix is duck tape.