GrimGreg

I would doubt that, our OBD1 ECUs don't mess with fan contorls at all.

I "fixed" the ones in my 93 the other day. I pulled the dome light and center section, then just popped the sections down from the ceiling (so they were hanging by the clipps over the door still) and hit the edges with spray adhesive. Clipped them back in and put the center and dome back up. Not like new, but not sagging and hitting me in the head anymore either.

I've wheeled with a couple Xterra guys who have it, never saw them in anything so extreme to notice any difference.

Post up pictures of the mounts, I just have the bar and gasket. Was planning to just use a couple bolts on each side, but if you have an actual size needed, that would be helpfull.

Yep.

Try

Use your gift card to buy a craftsman 1/2" drive breaker bar.

Yep, no sign of melting, the insulation was still perfect, no bubbles, texture or coloration differences. The wire looked like it had been cut inside the insulation. The connector ends are just fine, the part that looks melted or worn down is the connector end on the battery terminal, and it is on the outside away from any of the electrical connections, where the connector would lock in place.

Turns out the fuse wire had broke in half inside the insulation, spliced it and it started righ up. Going to order a new link on Monday, but for now I can at least move the truck again.

After further tinkering (and ditching the el cheapo Volt meter for a good one) I found that 1 of the 4 wires on the fusable link has only 1v coming through it, the other three test fine. It so happens to be the wire that goes to the main relay, then on to the ECU.

Yeah, 75% of the braking is done with the front.

Here is my 88, all black headliner, but you can see the seperate pieces to either side of the dome light.

The 2wd Pathfinder setup is the exact same as the 4wd. 2wd Hardbodys on the other hand are different, but they are also weaker components. You could probably make gussets on them, but you would have to be carefull not to warp the inside of the ball joint socket. Our TREs are pretty stout when not put in a binding situation (like the one a worn CL causes). Not sure just how fabrication inclined you are, but you could make your own version of the "Hoohaa" CL. All it is is a stock CL with the ball joints removed and replaced with bearings, you then run a bolt through the bearing and pitman on the one end, and a bolt through the bearing and idler arm on the other end. Since there is no pivot to the bearing, the CL stays in a level plane.

If you said when you hit the brake, I would have guessed a vac problem, but the clutch doesn't have a booster on it, nor any other vac line to the system.

You can't find any between; Car Quest, NAPA, Auto Zone, .... We have like 10 different automotive chains in town, lol.

If they won't free up by backing off the adjuster, then just yank it off and let the springs fly. Spring kits are cheap, I always buy a new spring kit when I replace the shoes.

Most LEDs won't handle 12v, the resistor will reduce the voltage to the LED. So say you use a 1.25v LED, you need a 10.75ohm resistor on it.

They don't, why I pointed out the engine type, my 88 has that bleeder in the hose. The little hose jumps off and runs to a T fitting in one of the heater hoses on the firewall.

Just go back over the questionable welds with the TIG torch, you ought to be able to pretty up the welds that way. Just only add filler rod if needed.

Being a 98 they might have made some changes to the tranny components so that GL-5 is OK to use. Most of the talk of trashed trannies from GL-5 I have heard were from Hardbody pickup owners.

In this pic you can see the bleeder on the VG30i:

It will fit on your 94, direct swap.

Really, the J-yards could care less about switches, they just charge you for them because they can, if you don't buy it (or pocket it), it nets them no money when they actually crush and scrap the vehicle if the switches are in it. The one yard I go to charges a $1 admittion fee, so I always pocket my $1 worth at least, and that is usually fuses, or a relay or 2 or a fog light switch, etc.

If he has an automatic, he really screwed up! GL-gear lube, as in for manual trannys.

Actually they aren't fragile, but you gotta treat em right. Keep the fluid clean and cool and the auto will last a LONG time.