GrimGreg

As long as you get long enough bolts you should be able to mount both the guard and hook.

Anything larger than a 31 will still hit the back of the fender at the roll pan even with a lift. Most people just ease the curve there back closer to the door gap and cover it with the flare.

No WD had 16s stock, and the LE had non-lego alloys.

They may call it a "BULL" bar, but I wouldn't trust it past hitting a small sapling. It does look nice, and I liked the look of the one I had, but they aren't very functional.

I agree, the fact you don't even know what parts you have or want to put in it should be a red flag to you. The torque converter is what the auto has in place of a clutch.

Yeah, you might have a broken hanger further back that is allowing it to drop down and hit the crossmember.

I thought I remembered something about steers and queers....

At least you knew who he was talking about.

Kingman's outline is for manual controls (and FYI the vents don't need to be touched). For the auto setup, it's a row of push buttons, IIRC each button has it's own bulb.

Maybe longer rears for more travel, but if your front aren't shot, you can leave them alone.

So are they making the bars for you or are they making a basket? If they are making just the load bars, then you can mount them with bolts through the roof. If they are just making you a basket, then get the Thule or Yakima "clamp on" towers with cross bars to mount the basket to. I have the Thule, and have carried a 32' ladder with no trouble on them.

When it was pulling, where you on a crowned road?

95s came with automatic climate controls too.

Yeah, I was gonna ask if any of the rubber CV boots were tore open, if so they are probably dried out and bound up.

I they never used any 6 speeds behind VG blocks.

I thought the relay was in the heat exchange box behind the glove box? What ever the name of that part, I would check it first, every time I had blower trouble that part had failed. Just remove the glove box, and the piece of metal behind it. Then you'll see a wire going into the middle of a white plastic plug with 2 screws holding the pulg in. Remove the screws and see if that part has any corrosion on it.

It could be that you are feeling the torque converter lock and unlock on you, it feels like a gear shift when it does. Was the torque converter replaced when the tranny was rebuilt?

Well, you are probably going to have to back trace all the similar wires, to see where they actually run (or get s circuit finder, but even then you need to find the location where that wire ends). For the diagram, look at a FSM, or other manual(Haynes or Chiltons). You can download 94&95 manuals from a link in the garage section, but they are slightly different ECUs than 93 and older IIRC. When you have time, add your self to the list in this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3050&view=&hl=self alley&fromsearch=1

What the LE in the pin stripe, or a side marker?

Yeah, our alternators do just fine soaking in water, it is more the break down from both heat and (mud is full of dirt...) dirt grinding away the bearings and such that kills the alts.

Exactly, a replacement spring for manual control is much cheaper. The 94&95 LEs had both front seats heated stock.

If the fear is deer strikes, don't get a guard, get a winch bumper (ARB, TJM, ETC.). Something stout, that has less chance of bending back into your bodywork.

It had a passenger drop c200 front didn't it?

Get over it, I've heard as many if not more horror stories of bad fitment, crappy coating, uneven flanges and poor welds on Thorlys too. I got the Pacesetters, they fit fine and work well. I have seen the Thorlys and for the extra coin they want for them I think it isn't worth it.

I can't back up my statement at the moment, tried finding the post, but I could have sworn Tex posted a link detailing the end of the front solid axels on Patrols.