GrimGreg

At least he got more for it with CFC than if he traded or sold it. Most of the idiots who went CFC could have gotten more for their vehicle if they didn't go CFC. And now, anyone that needs parts (other than engine) can go get them from his former truck.

Kinda, different manufacturers base the width measurement at different places. Some go actual tread width, some go with side wall width, etc. So not all 10.5s are 10.5...

Remember to double check your speedo after you change sizes.

Ran my old BFG KM1s at 27, run my BFG ATs at 32, and run my Mud Rovers at 29. All 31x10.5 on 15x8 rims. It depends on the tire.

Yeah there is an override switch in the glass latch, so it won't run with the glass open.

Yeah, fuel problems, check the filter first, it's a cheap part and the clog can move around in the filter making it run off and on.

Double check the rear seal on the T-case when you swap the shaft out, the vibes could have tore it up.

You humped that rock good!

The Xterra UCA mounts direct to the frame instead of to a spindle. Instead of using shims for alignment they use offset cam bolts.

Is there an easy one to use, or has anyone even tried putting a solid rear in the 05+ yet?

Ought to magnet test the body, it has a pretty obvious repaint job. Check the floor boards under the carpet for holes. 2drs were the original and the best Pathfinders.

If I didn't have to street it, that would be an option.

Yeah, you'd need the entire intake/injection system and all the sensors from the donor, along with the ECU. Match trannys like B mentioned, if yours is auto, get an ECU from a MPI auto.

Looking at the 2 parts, you could just drill and tap that spot on the cheepo one and be set. (Thinking, it could also be for a pressure sensor.)

A rusty unibody making funny noises, I'd be saying no thank you and keep looking for something else.

That'll teach ya to just start blindly tapping wires. Trace the wire you tried to tap and look for any faults in it. Get your alternator checked, if those lights are on in your dash, the regulator might have gotten screwed.

I wouldn't. If anything slap some pieces of sheet metal over it with self tapping sheet metal screws. Filling it with foam will not bulge the panel back out, and it will seal in any crap that is in there. If you ever were to want to fix it properly you would be cursing the foam trying to remove it. Also, to fix it properly you would need to weld new steel in, foam is highly flamible. If you want a real "simple" fix, slap some duck tape over the holes.

It is there for sound reasons only. Ditch it and plug the hole.

I didn't put them in, it was on there stock. Neither the 2dr nor the 4dr had preset nuts for their racks. You can install a later model stock rack the same way though. The later models were the more common slide rails with adjustable bars. The sit lower than the older racks too.

Being between the radiator and AC it sits in front of the radiator, so it gets the cold air before the radiator, and at slow speeds the fan pulls the air through it before the radiator. I can see some heat exchange at low speed do to proximity, but the fan should negate a good bit of that. BTW, haven't mentioned this before, but this is on my 93, my wife uses it as a DD all winter. If it were a dedicated trail rig, I would just pull out a rear side window and put it up in there with a shroud ducting it out the rear. I'm still using the stock cooler on the 88, it had a new radiator in 04, and has worked fine, but I'll be installing a dedicated one on it, probably on the underside of the hood with a cowel on top of the hood and e-fan below the cooler. Not going for pretty on it, but not going for ugly either. The 93 I want to keep somewhat pretty, for my wife's benefit.

B put one on his latest Pathy, he has a thread in the 90-95 section IIRC.

Really?

Mine is tucked between the radiator and the AC now, lower corner. The OEM cooler is removed from the system to avoid the common clog issue. As for summer, the only time it does get really hot is when I am offroading, the slow speeds in low gears gets it really hot. Tex, no road grime is not a worry of mine, it was a worry of B's.

Tex, read my 3rd post. I would be more worried about an air tank under the truck myself. I know Eli had put his dual batteries in the area I'm talking about... Basically looking for an alternate location that doesn't require a bump out on the body or losing a window and cabin space.

No, just looking for thoughts beyond the simple, "it's gonna get hit".... Yes I am kind of set on doing it. Actually, some of my thoughts as to why I want to do this include; it sitting up front getting over cooled in the winter, and flow to restricted when idling offroad. Being under the truck it won't get as high of flow yes, but that and also it might pick up some exhaust heat could help in winter. In summer, since ther really isn't room for a second e-fan up in front of the truck, I could mount one directly to the cooler if relocated. It would also shorten the run to and from the tranny to the cooler.