GrimGreg

Damn, I just saw a set at the J-yard, I'll see if I can get back there and find them Monday.

You can buy a taper bit to ream it so that it seats properly.

Yeah, it is usually easier in the long run to just get a new wheel cylinder. I broke the passenger rear off on my 88 and replaced the WC on it, the same one on my 93 won't budge, haven't broke it off, yet, but didn't push hard enough to do so either this time. I stil have a little softer pedal on my 93 than my 88, but I think I just have some air in the passenger rear on it.

Pull the cap off the MC and then pop out the screen. Have someone pump the brake and watch the fluid for bubbling. When my brakes got soft a fellow Nissan owner friend did that to mine, and there was a bunch of bubbles, like a shaken soda. So, I didn't have a fluid leak, but I was pumping a ton of air into the system. New MC and all better.

Interesting, never saw that style before. I collected a bunch of the rectangular rocker type from j-yards and have used them for all my accesory lights.

I've broken those parts on the Chevys I've had before (S-10, Caprice), and on a Honda and a Dodge that I have owned, it's not a Nissan only thing.

All makes use plastic connections in the door lock and latch linkages.

If it has play in it while running I would think that the lifter isn't working right, or the rocker is very heavily worn (doubt that). How loose is that rocker compared to the others with the engine off? That lifter might be stuck so it isn't self adjusting properly.

Yeah, I guess we could just run zoomies too....

Sell it to a Mexican...

No, it will fit, but good luck getting headers or a manifold on there for the exhaust.

Yeah, they are a pain.

They probably set your wheel straight, then adjusted the side that was off, or adjusted the one side in and the other side out to make it so the wheel was straight when in toes spec.

It's steel, cut out the bad, weld in good.

The one looks like a PS2 (not Play Station) style connector (left), the other looks like an S-Video or mini-midi style connection (middle). I'm assuming that the right is the power connection.

Look in the other areas of the forum there have been topics on that more than a few times.

Did you do it right? I usually take a small piece of sand paper folded over, so there is grit on both sides, and put it between the contacts, put pressure on the contact while pulling the paper out, repeat until all cleaned. You gotta double check that the contacts are making good contact also, sometimes you have to bend the reeds back down a bit. I had trouble after cleaning mine once and it turned out that one of the reeds was bent so when you turned the switch, it closed about 1/16 of an inch gap left.

Look in the plumbing section for one of the pressure test bladders. They are made to be put in a pipe and inflated to seal off the end of the pipe. They come in a few sizes and have the valve on the end of a tube sticking out the end.

The little sticker on the hatch....

Just pull the AC fuse.

Pull out the switch and clean the contacts! You don't need a new switch. I've had to clean them in my 93 twice now, about every 4 years, still work just fine afterward.

Cool, shows you never know, some parts are and some parts aren't sold individually. Also some parts are reasonablely priced while others are obsurd.

Of course you negotiate with them, they are trying to get out of the deal with the least amount of pay out as possible. That is why insurance is called a buisness, if they were in it for our best intrest they would be non-profit, lol.

From all the ethanol and other crap in the gas. Carbon build up can happen quicker than you might think.

Would be my guess, either oil leaked on the pipes, or something caught on the crossover pipe being burning off. Could also be the typical driver's floor panel rust issue, causing the padding to burn from the hot exhaust below.