GrimGreg

I usually bleed out everything until I get new fresh fluid when I change pads.

Putting a bolt through there will attach the bumper to the inner fender well, which could cause more damage in even a mild hit.

Did you bleed out the fluid as you retracted the caliper piston, or force it all back to the MC? Might have pushed some crud back into the system.

I used the brackets, then tack welded them to the bumper because it kept trying to pull down and forward on me.

I actually have a service bulletin around here that Nissan sent out to the dealers for the repair. You can buy replacement floor pans, but it is usually easier to just patch back any hole with sheet metal.

Just herculine that area

4 nuts, 2 on either frame rail on bracketed bolts.

Yeah, try bleeeding the entire system first.

I'm pretty sure you need to pull the distributor to do the swap.

He has a 95 wiring harness in his truck. If you wanted to add one, all you would have to do is splice the wires into the tail light brake wire.

Could be, recheck all your wires and plugs then do the compression test. It could also be that the belt is off a tooth, is it an actual miss or does it just shudder?

Yes, but usually it will run poorly no matter where it blows. Unlike Chevys, our head gaskets rarely go. Don't rely on a compression test, you could have worn valve seals or piston rings giving you a low compression reading also.

With a utility knife, anything will fit perfect

Look closely around the timing cover area, there are 2 common leak points around there if the parts are getting old. The small bypass hose above the thermostat, when it leaks it is hard to see. The other is the water pump, if it has gone bad, it has a weep hole on the bottom that will leak out fluid a drop at a time. When I had coolent loss, it turned out to be my water pump.

I don't think they'll mate to the tranny.

Just run it under pressured to wear the outside edges to match

My truck sounds like and angry horse snorting as I go down hill, I stick it in first and let it go, won't pass 15 mph even on the steep stuff.

Really? You WANT running boards.......no joke?

Is there any resistance in the slider? The contacts might be bad on the end.... FYI, when the resistor is bad it will fail the opposite way, and ONLY work on high.

When your stuck, you do what you need to do to get going. There are many "don'ts" in the manual that are done in times of need.

The computer can, and does, change the spark timing as needed.

VW

Put the belt on, then start it up, if it runs funny do a compression test and that will tell you which ones are bent.

I grew up out there, never further inland than 5 miles. Only ever had 1 vehicle that was rust free out there, and still have it, still rust free, in Ohio.

Sometimes mine acts up, usually I pull the key and flip it and it turns just fine.