GrimGreg

Just paint your stock alloys black, like everyone else.

I have one in the back on both Pathys, both are always on since usually when I use them I am stopped. I wired both from the battery through a fuse block. Here is my 93's (hiding under the flashlight):

2wd and 4wd Pathfinders use the same UCA, LCA, etc., unlike the 2wd HB.

You can spend about $50 more a tire and get brand new MTs. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+M%2FT+Plus&partnum=105QR5GEOMTPLOWLR&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Radial+Mud+Rover&partnum=105R5MROVOWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes I'm running the Mud Rovers on my 88, like em so far.

As for the CV, how mechanically inclined are you? About the only special tool it requires is snap ring pliers. Jack up the truck and support it on Jack stands and remove the wheel. Remove the hub with an allen wrench, remove the snap ring on the stub of the axel shaft, put a jack under the lower control arm (just snug), undo the tie rod end at the spindle, undo the bottom bolt on the shock, unbolt the upper ball joint, unbolt the CV from the diff, and pull the CV out. Install in the reverse, it is a good time to replace any worn ball joints too.

Still lovin my cranks.

Get an el cheapo Harbor Frieght trailer, you can get a decent one in the $300-$400 range there.

IIRC Radio Shack carried a bulb that works.

Wow, didn't know TC was doing anything for older models.

Another wobble possibility might be worn bearings.

Front lift is just cranking the torsion bars, if you have enough adjustment in the adjusters you are fine and done easy. If not, then you have to back of the adjusters completely and reindex them on the torsion bar end (look for the write up(s)).

I notice a little difference offroad, not as much of a jerk on the wheel over bumps (Rancho kit). I have the mounts for a stock one (frame side) I grabbed off a junker, planned to use it on my 88. As for the slop, you probably have either a worn center link or worn tie rod ends.

Actually, looking at the UCAs and the Pre-runner bumper parts, it looks like AC might have bought the rights to the designs or something.

Just get a long sawsall blade and cut the head off that bolt. Once the body is off, you can work on removing what is left of it in the welded nut, and use a new bolt when you reassemble.

How old timer, and a Nissan old timer, or a board old timer?

They might have used the stock lower link mounts to hang some leafs off of.

Never compared that closely, but AFAIK the tanks and sending units in my 88 and 93 are exactly the same.

The LSD could be worn, but like others said, if you punch it from a stand still on the dirt it should show both tires digging.

Figured out the issue today, the fuel pressure regulator. My step-dad tapped it while the truck was running and the engine went haywire.

Yep. I'd go the jerry can route myself, less hastle, and easily removable. Not to mention easier access if you need a quick fire starter .

So is that right or left while sitting in the vehicle, or standing in front looking at it?

You named the only 2 companies that make "stiffer" T-bars. You said you backed them off, how much? General rule is to leave at least 1/2" gap between the upper bump stop and the upper control arm. How are your shocks? Did you replace them when you cranked? If they are shot, then they won't soak up any of the bumps, and it is just your tires and bump stops for cushioning.

Just call Nunya, he'll do it for ya, lol!

Nope, outer fender is one panel. There is the inner fender, then a plastic filler between the 2, all seperate pieces. You'll see once you begin working on your's.

Idiots are gonna be idiots, no matter what you tell them.