GrimGreg

Everything is the same between the 2dr and 4dr frames, all mounts and everything. When they made the rear bolt change, it was the captive nut on the body side.

Those people are looking where to aim the shotgun! (Or, what car tires to slash in the middle of the night.) As for the frame and body steel, they changed the frame steel composition in the early 90s, most 80s frames are better, the 90s tend to rust if you look at them. My 88 frame looks worse, covered in surface rust, but it is still solid. My 93 looks solid but is falling apart from the inside.

Something that is rarely thought of, and rarely an issue, but I have seen it happen.

http://www.tifr.us/tifr/2010/4/11/bacon-at-at.html Use the force, to eat your bacon!

Sorry to say, but aside from the crowd here, you won't be turning any heads in a Pathy. If you want vanity, you're driving the wrong vehicle.

You would have to modify the exhaust tubing if you used 300 stuff, their crossover pipe goes right where our firewall is.

My 88s scheme is flat black, bright green and grey...it's still to white, and has been for 5 years. It's never my plan to make it pretty, so anything I do is ment for fun. The body is rusting all to hell, but it just makes me care even less if I smack a tree or a rock outcrop. Why go get nice pretty body work then go out and smash it all up? I only fix the rust where it causes leaks in the cabin. Hell, if I ever do the things I want to do to that 88, it will be a fun truck, but I go back and forth so much, it just sits as is. Though, for a stock truck with nothing more than good tires (not even LSD rear), I have gone places some built rigs couldn't go. One reason I flip flop on my plans, it goes good as is, so why try and fix what isn't broke?

My square tube is .120 wall thickness (1/8"). It almost seems like overkill, but I wouldn't go thinner. When I originally designed my bumper it was going to be built on my 93, with the 2" BL, IIRC I made it so there was 7" clearance from the center brace in front of the AC to the inside of the tube. I did that for clearing at least a 9k winch behind the bumper. When I actually built it, I did it on the 88 that does not have a BL, so I ended up with 4" of space. When I do get a winch, I will probably cut out the upper center bar and just weld the winch plate in on the bottom tube, with it as far back as I can get it. Then build a new upper bar over the top of the winch.

Yeah, my custom one on my 88 is 2x2 tube, and it "bends"/angles up right at the end of the frame rail, so it only protrudes out another 2.5" past the frame and is solid tube, so I'm good on approach even if I hit it won't hurt it.

Well if the Jeep kit has 8 large diameter blocks and 4 small diameter blocks then it has the blocks you need (doubt it). You would need (IIRC) 6 bolts with the proper threads, the rest are nut and bolt, so as long as those others will fit the hole you can use any (metric or SAE).

I actually used left over relocation brackets from the BL for the gussets on that one.

Don't mind at all, aside from showing my grey hair. BTW, did they gusset the relocated upper mounts, or just seam weld both sides?

Sounds like your shoes aren't adjusted properly.

Exactly. Not doubting anyones abilities.

I have the US version, marketed under the Coleman brand. I actually widened 2 of the deflector mount holes to mount my lights on it.

I wish you luck, but doubt you'll even get half that done. Just have seen a lot of posts like that from teens, and they tend to either give up halfway through (and part it out), or decide against most of their original ideas, get it running and sell it.

Obviously it didn't.... It was almost like the tank had warped in a way that it gapped where the seal would mate to it, while being tight all around where the bolts go in. (And an air ratchet > a nut driver )

Yeah, there is no "Heavy Duty" shafts on the market for us. I have also had ideas for stronger ways to make them, just no means or material sources.

I ran my CB cable up the edge of the windshield/ door frame. Pull the screws that are there and reinstall them with wireclips to hold the wires. (Or just drill a hole in the roof and run everything under the headliner and interior panels.)

Mine either, but I use that crap daily, lol.

caulking

Mine was dealer too.

In all honesty, the wrong kind...I used an RTV that was supposed to be OK with gasoline, but some disolved and clogged my filter. It didn't disolve to a point it leaked again though, and it has been 4 years since that fix. If I were to do it over I think I would have tried Permatex MotoSeal instead.

Basically, drain the radiator, pull the AC idler pulley, remove the upper radiator hose, use a (IIRC 10mm) swivel socket and undo the 3 T-stat bolts, pop the housing open and swap the stat, then assemble in reverse. Something like that, it's been a while, but wasn't difficult, the swivel socket is the key.

The one green wire supplies power to the ECU, I'm guessing that you burnt out the other one since you aren't complaining it won't start... New fusible links are $11 at the dealer, start with fixing that then see what still isn't working.