GrimGreg

AFAIK, the only time the MC type is important to match is if you have disc rears, you "can't" use the drum MC.

You can do either swap if you have all the wiring, sensors and ECU.

Nah, it's painted metal! Want comfort, go get one of those foam squares and throw in the floor board.

My only guess off the top of my head might be that you are using the wrong sized snap ring on the stub shaft.

I forget what year they started ABS, but I know all 93+ have it(IIRC it was added in 90...). The ABS light can be on from many faults, low fluid is most common, the sensor on the pinion is bad (my issue), the pump solinoid could be bad, etc.

Exactly, all it does is collect dirt and water and look like ass, lol.

Ah, the glory of apartment living.

I think a better question is, if when doing a rebuild, if any of those parts can just be swapped in?

What I was trying to get at is, if you had had it in 4wd and shifted into 2wd, and never changed directions, your auto-hubs were still possibly locked in. Coming to a stop might have halfway unlocked the hub and it fully disengaged loudly as you were driving. If you hadn't been in 4wd at all, then they should not have been locked in at all.

Actually, the "exposed bolts" on most flares like that are fake, and the flare only attaches with 3M tape around the edge.

Did you have it in 4wd at all before the clunk?

Unless the previous owner used that switch to trigger a front air locker instead, it was purely coincidence.

Another option would be a copy mill, then just mill the ABS down using an original as a guide.

If you can find a way to keep it from getting smashed/ dragged off by the frame while draging the frame on a rock, I'd so go for it. They start at about $250. The mid-pipe Precise suggestd would be nice, direct bolt in with O2 bung.

It's a touchy thing, but if you don't know the vehicle enough, neutral is the best approach. Getting to know how your vehicle reacts in slick conditions is key to avoiding trouble. If you know how to, you can actually power out of a slide, but if you over do it, you just made things twice as bad as they were to begin with, same with hitting the brakes, if done right you can effectively stop out of a slide. Hell, depending on your position slamming it in reverse is the best course of action. Like I said, it is all in knowing your vehicle.

Mine (88)is doing something similar, but it is also surging while idling. I had checked my MAF last spring and cleaned up the connections....

Check your fusable links, sounds like what my 88 did when it shorted a wire in the link.

I think the main headliner is a "flecked" cardboard (fabric particles sprayed onto the cardboard backing).

I think mid year 92 they changed to the larger size.

Have fun in those flash floods . (I grew up about 30 miles from you R3DN1CK, you have more than desert.)

Yep, good place to store them is inside the access panel for the tail lights.

If you can't get it loose, you will need a new one. (Even if you can loosen it, I would replace it, but I understand if money is tight. Just keep an eye on it.) There are rebuild kits, but they can be a pain and just replace seals, not the sticking piston.

The TDs had the scoops, but they sat further back on the hood.

Red posted a review from one of the offroad mags a while back, it actually beat out a couple name brands because they broke down.

You'll want sliders and other stuff before you get into places a locker can get you into and a winch can get you out of.