GrimGreg

For deep water crossings and sloppy wet mud, not a great idea. I've offroaded mine just fine with it, just had to clean the filter after the trip. I just took creek areas slow (to avoid a bow wave), but otherwise didn't hold back. In all reality, my intake with the cone sits higher than the stock air intake in the fender, so I can tackle deeper water than stock with it.

They came stock (if it is a stock sunroof) with a cover. They are hard to find and sell quick whenever someone puts one up in the classifieds. Not sure if you can get one through a dealer or courtesy anymore. You could take a piece of cardboard and make one that fits. Tape some clips on the front to fit the slots and put some bolts through the back where the thumb screws went, then it is easily removable, unlike duck tape.

Very often, everytime you open the cap you let air in, one component of air is water vapor. Usually and water that condences in the tank will float on the top (another reason you fill up at 1/4 tank). If it gets sloshed around it can mingle with the gas (will not dilute into it), and can get into the pump. Anyway, I would doubt it is a freezing issue, have you checked the MAF sensor? It might have developed the ground issue that is common on our trucks. Also check your spark, if the coil is bad it won't send a good spark (white or yellow bad, blue is good). Check your fusable link also, one of those wires might be corroded.

Maybe the connector for the switch needs it's pins cleaned up.

Sometimes it shifts better while moving, sometimes it doesn't. If it is all the way forward it should be in 2H. Maybe your linkage is messed up.

If you are going for looks If you are going for good exhaust flow, stick with a single, just up the diameter of the pipe.

Yeah, I think the ugliness of the vinyl that is used is that it doesn't have much of a grain pattern to it.

Yeah, the "stock" ones the brackets are actually bolted in before the fender skin is installed and not able to be removed without cutting. The "kits" were made for when someone wanted one added by the dealer. The nuts are pre-installed for the latch and guide unter the hatch opening on all Pathfinders, you just have to drill out the sheetmetal at the dimples. If I were to install one from scratch I would install the latch and guide, then set the carrier on them and mark through the openings on the hinge to mark where to drill for those bolts, then set the brackets to match the holes.

The ones in my picture on page 1 were painted with vinyl paint. But the rest of the headliner was covered in new vinyl I bought at the fabric store out of the bargin bin.

Would be my guess, it is a short throw into 4wd. The rear would still have power if 4H failed, and about the only way our T-cases fail is the chain stretching or breaking, and the chain only powers the front drive.

Copyright doesn't apply, but if there is any patent on them that would. However, just make a mild change and the patent is null. I want a set of rears at the very least.

I know that, FSM only covers stock components also. Given my aftermarket wheels, I don't rub the frame with my 31s with the stops adjusted for 235s (stock). Most who have rubbing issues are using stock wheel backspace and 31s on a vehicle that had 235s, and stops set for 235s.

It's frigid as all hell out today. might be able to make it to the yard later in the week.

We had a Pathy spit a T-bar out of the LCA at our last NOAS run. Had to reinstall and re-set height on the trail. It looked like it had been running on only 1/2" of contact inside the splines so it just over stressed and popped out.

Alright, I can see that...so is it posted in the wrong section, or is his year wrong?

Not on WDs dude, we have rear ABS only. Mine has been on for 3 years, I busted the sensor on the pinion. Another basic cause for the light is low brake fluid. The good news is even if the ABS system isn't working, you still have full brake function. BTW, You can check the ABS computer codes with a good shop computer like a MODIS.

93+ all had roof mount rear speakers. You can remove the headliner and bracket in the roof and mount it into older Pathys though. The wires on the pinion are for the ABS sensor. It does have LSD (closest to locker stock ever got).

Yeah, it looks like the T-bar just came out of the adjuster. Can't see the inside of the adjuster in the pics to tell if the splines are OK or not. If they are OK, it is actually a simple fix. Undo the bolt pointing up until it is almost completely backed out. slip the adjuster barrel back over the end of the T-bar, then crank the adjuster back up.

Geez, you take al the fun out of it that way!

Not always, but those who are rubbing the frame might want to do that. Both of mine came with the chromes and 235s, I have ran both with 31s on aftermarket wheels since and never had frame rub, but without a bodylift I rub the bottom rear corner of the front fenders.

I saw Stacy David do an install of that system on a vette on his show, talk about fitting some plumbing into some tight places!!! A remote turbo is a bad idea for any vehicle that will travel offroad, especially in deep mud or water crossings. one little bump, one little leak and BOOM! Grenaded turbo.

I have also heard that using an oil filter without and anti-backflow valve on it can cause the oil to drain down resulting in the lifter tick.

That won't save you, the electric lock is connected in with plastic clips also.

Yeah, it is about the size of a small oil filter, silver, hose in bottom hose out top, can't miss it.