GrimGreg

We did my 93's in about 3 hours in a shop with every tool you can think of within 4' of the truck. I think it might have taken me closer to 6 hours if I was doing it at home on my own, with my tool selection. As was said, might as well do the belts, hoses and seals while in there.

Have you checked that your speedo/odo are accurate? If you are running a larger tire than came on the truck stock then it will read less milage on the odo.

http://www.shop3m.com/70070385854.html?WT.z_xsell=1&WT.z_refSKU=70071349412

Different LSDs will lock up at different points, some will allow a lot more wheel spin before engaging. With the stock h233 LSD usually it will lock in pretty quick.

I found your problem. NEVER BUY AUTOMOTIVE ANYTHING THERE!

I would find a donor, swap out the trannys, then rebuild the one you have with the Trans-Go kit. Then you can swqap it back in and sell off the donor one (or rebuild it for a spare, but then you have to store it someplace....)

Yeah, the wires will work, but look kinda funny (the one side is longer to get past the intake plenum on the e).

I thought it boosted the octane. But yeah, leaving it in the oil for a long period of time can be very bad.

They'll fit fine.

Actually high speed use would cause more heat build up.In Rock Crawling the gears barely turn, so not a lot of heat generated (unless you are the type who just hits the gas and prays you climb the rock). About the only situation we would be in to get us even close to overheating the H233bs would be heavy hauling/towing in the mountains at full highway speeeds.

The Gibson is cat-back, O2 is in front of cat. BTW, that is about the cheapest good quality pre-bent cat-back available. Between the Gibson, the Pacesetters and the cone filter my 93 sounds pretty mean.

It is the maplight wire. You can add the light to your's really easily (I did it on my 93). In models without the map lights, they just taped the wire off to the dome light wire. If you pull the trim above the door off you can see where it splits off the dome light wires.

I just won a $100 gift certificate from them, going to probably get a rear bumper for my 93. I don't really like his WD-21 wincher.

I bought the Gibson cat-back from AC, it is basically everything you described. 2 bolts at the flange, 2 hangers (one combined with a clamp) done. (The pic is flipped on their ad page.) https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=367_139_348&products_id=414

I have heard using heat will soften it back up, but getting the right amount of heat to soften it without actually melting it or burning it is the hard part.

Give me a blank and your broken key and I can make you one in 20 min. All you need is a dremel, Nissan keys are simple as hell.

Or down the middle, the locksmith can take the broken key and hand cut a new one from it.

I still want a set of those widebody flares! At least a pair for the rear.

Are the brakes fully locked up when the pedal gets stiff? You might just have things adjusted so tight that you don't need much pedal to stop. Which could account for the drop in fluid level, since you are probably burning off brake material quickly. Usually if there is a leak, the pedal will get soft, not stiff.

x2

Looks like you would need the 450.

It sucks TJM stopped making them for the WD/D-21s, though I never saw them that cheap when they did.

It can take some digging into the harness to figure out if there is bad wiring, start at the wire coming out of the sensor and work your way back. It should have a connector at some point not to far from the sensor, that would be the first place I would check as the pins in the connector can corrode.

If you take the cap and rotor off, you can see the lower cover that is held on with a screw, remove that and you can see the disc that the sensor reads and where the sensor is mounted.

Just stick em under the frame.....wait.....uh