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Made it from WA to UT and having a blast out here, did Schafer trail/White rim Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

One other thing I’ll add is that seeing how much these springs lifted it with a 250lb rate makes me seriously doubt the supposed 380lb rating I’ve heard for the AC lift coils. I know I’ve read that the free height of the AC springs is over 16”. Seeing how 14.5” free height and 250lb rate gave me 2.5” lift....the math on the AC springs just doesn’t add up. My guess is the AC’s are closer to the 200lb range. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The spacers fit great over the strut and sit well on the bottom perch. I welded them to the perch to hold them in place. The new springs at 250lb spring rate are waaay stiffer than the stock springs. I ended up setting the spacer all the way at the lowest setting (as determined by my own arbitrary trimming, lol). The free height of the spring and spacer combination is 14.5” as installed and it ended up giving me way more lift than expected. Ground to fender measurement was 36.5” pre-install, and 39” after. So I got 2.5” additional lift. That really wasn’t what I was looking for, but...I’m happy with it. I’m planning to add a winch soon so hopefully that will pull it back down a little bit. I already have one set of camber bolts, (each strut has one regular and one adjustable bolt) and I was able to get the camber close but it’s still off. I need both bolts to be adjustable now to get it where I need it, so I ordered a second set of camber bolts that should be here tomorrow. The ride quality is fantastic. It feels so much more stable and planted now, soaks up speed bumps and potholes no problem, and doesn’t have any nose dive when braking. I’m seriously impressed with the ride! The only big downside is that I seriously need a SFD now! The stance and ride of the truck is where I want it, but the CV angle is atrocious. I have manual hubs so there’s no worries with regular driving, but I need to do the drop before doing anything serious off road. Unless Towndawg and Hawairish have things available soon I’ll probably fab something up myself. I don’t need to do anything more with the struts, just need the sub frame and engine blocks and steering shaft extension. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It turned into a long day, but I got the springs installed yesterday! First of all, I’ve found it hard to find good info on the specs of the stock front springs, so I took some measurements to share. Stock front coil spring, 2003 SE: Free height 15.25” Top inside diameter 4.5” Bottom inside diameter 6” Measurements when mounted in strut: Unloaded height (no weight/supported on jacks) 10.25” Loaded height (full weight on suspension)8” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was the timer. Replaced with a junk yard box and all is good. Thanks all.

Picked up two F250 bump stops for $3, but couldn’t pull the brake line off of a frontier. That upper fitting is ridiculous. I’ll order a new one from Advance auto parts I guess. I’ll toss it out there that if anyone doesn’t have good access to JY’s, I have a lot of JY’s local to me with probably 10 total pathfinders, and I’m getting pretty good at pulling stuff and shipping it out. They sell stuff for really cheap too

FINALLY!!! Managed to get some serious work done on my custom low profile winch bumper!! Happy will the result. Now I have to bend some tubes for the corners and finish the front skid plate AND paint it! (And fix my very messy wiring haha) Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

So my fuel gauge has been off / not accurate and I'm planning to replace my fuel pump and gauge float one package, my question is do I have to drop the tank or is there an access under the back seat carpet?? It seems in the cars I've seen videos you can remove the seat and there it is, I can feel the hump under the carpet under the rear seat but don't feel any bolts to a access cover, I'm guessing the tank needs to be dropped but I want to double check here if I can save a big step in this repair. Thank you

Trip Report - Quilcene Went on a quick little spring exploration mission. Didn't have high hopes of any elevation since we had a pretty heavy snowfall recently so I planned some lowland stuff. Ended up being much drier than I anticipated so I made a run for an old firewatch location out near Quilcene. Towards the top I had to cable-up to get through some deeper snow in the shadows, but honestly it wasn't anything too nasty. Minimal to no snow (other than ~6-12" in shadows) all the way to the top at about 3200' of elevation. Overall I found a couple decent campsites, cruised some easy backroads, and checked some gates/dead-ends off my list so I know not to waste my time in the future! I use GaiaGPS to plan and track all my trips. I'm definitely getting my rhythm down. Work gloves with latex gloves inside help keep my hands happy while chaining. A pad to kneel on helps a lot as well.

My '93 has a hatch, no idea if Nissan carried that along to the R51 though. The fuel system section of the manual's available here, might help give you an idea of what you're up against.

Any updates?

I’ll take a picture, they’re pretty bad! I’m literally sitting here right now figuring out some plans to weld up some spacers. I have a feeling it’ll have a SFD on it within the next few weeks.

Check the motor and trans mounts. also check the rear suspension bushings. I am going to bet it is the link bushings in the rear. Simple check, with trans in first(manual) or park(auto), parking brake off on hard level surface, rock a rear tire back and forth while watching the axle housing. If the yoke moves more than 1-2 inches up and down, you have worn bushings, Any side movement there is another sign of worn out bushings.

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Many years ago, I broke a rear swaybar endlink while I was in Moab. Couldn't see anything wrong because while the truck was sitting still, the ball end would go back into its socket. After getting pulled over and having the nice officer explain to me that when going around corners, it is not legal to have 2 tires up in the air, I decided I had to find the problem. when I grabbed the link and pulled, it popped apart and I found the problem that time. New link and I didn't have the sway anymore. I have also had to replace the rear link bushings for wear causing odd handling issues. Have to do it again actually. My right rear shock dumped all its oil about the time I wound up parking my Pathy for a while and I have noticed it has become a bit squirrely due to that. I will also admit that my truck is in rough shape since she has been neglected for the last 4 years and I am just getting back into working on it. 3" body lift and 4" suspension lift in the rear with soft springs have made things really noticeable.

I like how the white looks with the lower center of the bumper painted black!

here is a new one. the guy used electrical tape to tape the single din car stereo to the pocket,. then since he did not have the bracket to mount it in. He used expanding foam to hold it in. I almost drove the car into a ditch and left it after finding that GEM. Took me almost 4 hours to cleanup that mess

Its only the beginning too Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

After playing around with it, we’re going to adapt a horizontal carrier. The vertical carrier would work but the top third of the HiLift sticks out from the trucks profile & I’m worried about it catching branches. In a Jeep it sits behind their square silhouette but the taper on our trucks, which works so well to fit it n tight spaces, just doesn’t offer it protection. I definitely don’t want to lever on the swingate.

That is SO cool. What a fun trip to take.

Part of the coil was hanging off the edge with nothing under the coil.

It might not work. It’s the 01-04 Xterra trans you need.

Dude this looks badass!!

New grill and fog lights installed, hopefully the headlights will be next. Also currently considering wheel spacers for a more aggressive look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Roof rack done! It’s fairly strong and fits the look I needed. You can barely see the u-bolts sticking up, but sawing off some of the extra threads fixes that. Probably about $70 to make, but it beats the $200 it would’ve taken for a flat rhino rack. Also painted my tow hooks while I was at it.

If the spring looks like it’s unseated, I’ve had that happen before. The coils had slipped over the edge of the lower strut seat, and was partially hanging off. I dropped it off at the shop that did my alignment and they said they just hammered it back into place, probably with the suspension at full droop.

Luckily the prices I've seen to do a run of a fairly simple design isn't really all that bad.Personally just want a hat..I figured a patch is pretty versatile.. Hat ..jacket ..bags of whatever type.Not trying to make money... Just figured if I'm getting it done.. Why not share.You can get small batches of one design or another..a few of the classic oval..few back country silhouette (good idea by the way)...whoever wants one til there gone..(cant cost much to mail a patch)...sounds good to me.

I took care of a couple little details tonight. I didn’t like that the spacers don’t have a locking collar or anything to lock the spacer in position. I thought about tack welding them, but I want to keep the option open to change the height in the future. I drilled and tapped the collars and added a couple set screws. Also, I didn’t like that the spring and spacer diameters are different enough that the spring could slide around a bit. So, I made some rubber isolators that slide over the spacer and fill the gap so the spring sits squarely and can’t move around at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alright boys, it's happening! I scored the tire carrier off a 97 along with what might be an aftermarket trailer receiver hitch. Everything came off super easy other than one of the receiver bolts. Man was that difficult... Anyway, I grabbed all the associated rear tire carrier hardware and bolts. One thing I forgot to do was take a template of the existing holes, but I'll figure it out. Definitely excited, not much rust at all once I scrubbed it down. I'll be painting it and then step 1 of the install will be to fab up a reinforced latch area on the bumper a la Hawarish style. I'll probably go rivnuts to mount everything unless my machinist buddy doesn't let me. I'll also be fabbing up a jerrycan holder and of course something to mount the license plate to. Has anyone mounted a high-lift? We'll be building sliders soon so a high-lift will be doable.

I think he was just saying we've not done an install with this method on a pre-facelift truck. It should be exactly the same because the carriers are coming from pre-facelift trucks. It should also "fit" QX4 trucks but the issue there is that the liftgate contour is different and the reverse lights are on the liftgate, not the tail lights. @malacandro If you want to make it happen here, I'd be up for that. I'll be doing @Astrorami's setup in the near future, though I'd like to let @TowndawgR50's continued R&D occur and apply those methods here when ready. They're a definite improvement on my original approach. Also, this is all great info! Be sure to add some stuff to the Tire Carrier thread (linked in my signature) if you've not already.

i like these ones as well... https://www.etsy.com/listing/538198468/decal-npora-nissan-r50-vinyl-decal

I got the quote for the landed price for these, should be about $50.00 each (Plush shipping out to whoever might be interested in one.) Depending on interest, I would be willing to take the risk and get 10 of these shipped to me here in Colorado. Let me know: Cheers

The kits are still being tested and refined but as of right now they include all stainless fasteners, rivnuts and the stiffener plate for the body mounted latch components to retrofit a Pathfinder that did not come with a swing gate with a used JY unit. There is the optional license plate relocation bracket for those that want it as well. This setup has not been tested on pre-face lifted Pathfinders or any QX4. You'll need to source a used swing gate and latch components from a JY or part out vehicle. Also, you'll need to rent or purchase a rivnut gun to install the threaded inserts. Given the total cost, when compared to a swing gate for a 4runner or universal unit from Smittybilt, JY swing gates are a great alternative.

Just did this service along with every other front suspension component. I replaced the outer and inner bearing's and races. used a punch to knock out the old races. I did score the race seating surface but filed down the high spots i created. Car runs great. One tip would be to re-tighten the spool nut after a few miles.

Crank time. Pistons and rings. Crank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cut the bumpers up today, long overdue

Me too. Door lock timer behind rear driver side panel in back.

I still suspect timer Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Check your motor mounts and transmission mount as well

I should add the nickname that my wife gave pathy #3, the part out: WHEN ARE YOU GOING TO GET RID OF THAT THING! B