Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by 02_Pathy

  1. If you remove the plastic tray/storage compartment underneath the floor mat in the cargo area, there should be a rubber boot in the floor pan that has the wiring for the trailer hitch wire harness if you have the tow package from the factory. I used that rubber boot to route wires from my backup lights in the rear bumper and into the cab of the vehicle. Then seal it off with some silicone so water doesn't intrude.
  2. Plus a few more pics because why not Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Been quite some time but updated/upgraded the pathfinder since the last time I worked on it. I purchased some Warn Manual hubs for it as well as Method MR309 Grids in titanium gray on sale with 4.75” bs. The hubs went on super easy and I didn’t have to change my stock studs out as they were plenty long, I know people in the past had too but in my case I didn’t. With 265/70r17 tires that are a bit worn down I did still have ample room between the strut and the tire. With the new wheels I took off my wheel spacers so I am currently not running any spacers just solely the wheel. Driving around with the hubs unlocked you can tell a difference that there is less front end drag and that you can coast farther without having to be on the gas all the time. Nice little touches to the pathfinder in my opinion! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. New Method wheels and Warn hubs installed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Sony A6400 Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  6. The OEM studs in the top hat are pressed in there pretty good, so if you did cut them it would be extremely hard to remove the stud still in the top hat. I would do it right by taking the strut apart, what I did was place the top hat ontop of 3 sockets that were a little larger than the studs and had the stud facing up then just hammered them out. Mine came out pretty easy but experiences might vary due to corrosion and mileage. Also if you had the bolt coming down and the nut on the bottom it would be almost impossible to tighten the nut on the inner side in the fender compared to just having the bolts coming up and tightening the nuts via in the engine bay Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  7. Star gazing Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  8. I've used the trakmotive cv joints off rock auto and got about 50k miles before the boots ripped, imo that's pretty good for a remanufactured cv joint and also having the CV's at an angle due to the lift Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  9. Should probably update this so you guys don't think I'm working on this thing forever lol. After 3 weeks of tedious work I finally got it back together and thankfully no leaks! This is definitely a big job to do nevertheless but totally worth it in my case as I would drip about half a quart of oil after parking... yeah. Also in the meantime while I had the rig apart@TowndawgR50 helped me install the Pines to Spines 4" SFD kit which also made it possible to take my oil pan out and access other parts of the vehicle. More details on that later... Also after this huge project and with addition to the SFD I have replaced and installed: New OEM motor mount Denso Starter 4" stainless steel braided brake lines from Goodridge Extended breathers on front and rear differentials U Joints New O rings in the oil pan as well as the pan gaskets and RMS IVAC gasket Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  10. This particular photo is with OME HD coils with a 1 inch SF creations spacer on the strut plus the 4 inch strut spacers. After the photo I took the 1 inch spacer out as it did cause my camber to be positive just very slightly even with camber bolts and the camber adjustment on the strut spacer with the Pines to Spines design. After getting it aligned at the shop with the setup OME HD coils and 4 inch strut spacer everything was within spec without the use of camber bolts. I sit currently around 5.5 inches of lift Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks dude! Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  12. Pines to Spines Offroad 4" SFD kit is making her turn heads daily now [emoji7] Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  13. That's a super good idea. I work on Acuras professionally and when we do engines they drop out with the subframe and we use kinda the same trick. We use old subframe bolts, cut the heads off and cut a notch in them so when we are lowering the car onto the subframe we can get it positioned correctly and don't have to mess with trying to lines the holes up. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk Also for dropping the subframe, if you have spare trailing arm bolts for the pathfinder, they're the same thread pitch for the rear subframe bolts and act as a guide for about 3-3.5 inches down Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  14. For the most part you really have to take everything out that the manual says to do unfortunately. The only thing that I deviated from the manual was that I just unbolted the alternator and hung it using garden wire to have more room and I didnt even touch the power steering pump. But if you want to drop the whole pan, you have to drop the subframe and hoist the engine so it stays in place just so you have enough room to take it out. I just used the harbor freight 1000lb capacity support bar that sits on the inner fender. Also if you do drop the pan, on reinstallation I bought some thread rod that were the same thread pitch of the pan bolts and threaded them into the block as guide rods to slide the pan back on without smearing the rtv everywhere and making sure the pan goes straight up and seals. Also cut some slots in the threaded rods as well so you can take them out with a flathead if you do go that route Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  15. I just dropped my transmission and oil pan to replace the oil pan seal and rear main seal. On the rear main seal there is a channel where the rubber upper pan seal goes into where you do goop it with RTV and sandwich it between the oil pan. I removed my whole pan and replaced the front and rear seals as I'm already this far I might as well do it right now then have it leak later down the road. Although you do have to remove quite a bit of things to get the whole pan off. Also if you take the pan off theres 2 o rings inside that you'll need to replace as well. I just ordered the Felpro RMS that comes with a new retainer and the oil pan gasket set that came with the 2 seals for front and rear as well as the o rings. Best of luck with the pathfinder! Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  16. Making slow progress due to work but finally got the oil pan off and with@TowndawgR50 swinging by and giving me a hand. Upper oil pan seal was broken in half so explains why it was pouring out. Getting the pan off was surprisingly easy as the RTV wasnt really holding it anymore as well as the RMS. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  17. Yeah its definitely a nightmare come true for me lol Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  18. Alright it's been a long time since I've been on here but the rig still exists in my life but now I'm addressing the huge oil leak I've had for a year or so and always put the job off to the side as it's somewhat a big one for a $20 part. Upper oil pan seal is completely shot with the RMS only weeping just a little bit of oil. Had to remove lots of large components to get the tranny out like the front diff, exhaust, drivelines obviously and other tid bits which add up time. So far got the flex plate off and called it a night and hopefully will resume next weekend. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  19. I took apart my manifold 3 times for various jobs such as the power valve screws, coolant crossover pipe and valve covers and I've used both OEM gaskets as well as the Mahle complete set and the Mahle imo looks very similar to the OEM gaskets and I have no issues with them. Here's a link to the gaskets and they also have Felpro which is fairly reputable as well. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2002,pathfinder,3.5l+v6,1431960,engine,intake+manifold+gasket,5424
  20. I can say that the drive by cable is very controllable and predictable and in 4lo I can feather the throttle and not lurch forward, I have driven several drive by wire vehicles and the response is definitely not like a drive by cable and in my dad's '19 Trailhawk it is extremely terrible, you keep adding throttle and nothing happens then all of a sudden power comes out of nowhere and you launch Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  21. You'll have more room to work with if the tires are off and the rig on jack stands, that's how I did mine Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  22. I used a superstrut bar and held it to the rack via u bolts and used that to mount the side lights and used auxbeam tube clamp mounts for the front and back pods on the rack Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  23. Ome hd coils with 1 inch spacer and nrc9449s with 33 185569 shocks Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Welcome to NPORA Forums


Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.



  • Create New...