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02_Pathy

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Everything posted by 02_Pathy

  1. Yeah they have logged heavy in the area I was in and most of the area now is a clear cut unfortunately. It used to be dense forest. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  2. Looks like that's the same rack@TowndawgR50 uses on his rig with conduit clamps Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  3. Yeah of course. I just did a switch because I'm not the best with electrical so I didnt tap into the wiring just to be on the safe side Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  4. Yeah you can tap into the stock reverse lights with the pods. Theres other people and forums that have a how to on how to tap into the stock wiring. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  5. Yeah they're cheap and effective. And they allow flexibility for when the unibody flexes as well while keeping everything secure Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  6. The rola rack with extension is about 50 pounds, I've had about 60 pounds of cargo up there(110 total) and one time that I stood on the rack with everything in it brought the weight up to 260 but that was stationary, but everything held up fine. Those are just some numbers I'm throwing out but I've seen people load more but I am not sure what the actual weight limit is on the R50 Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  7. Thanks I like it too! Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  8. Well the perk for you is the galvanized conduits match your paint so it works out good imo. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  9. Yeah true more like 9 or 10 months haha Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  10. Also when I had a small rack before the rola mounted to the factory LE cross bars I could actually hear the plastic cross bars break a little too when flexing on mine when I had them Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  11. Yeah I have flexed my vehicle to the point where I could here the whole body creak from the articulation and I haven't had an issue with the mounts ripping out of the rails because the conduits themselves and rack flex to a degree. So my theory is the longer the rack, it's easier for it to bend and flex compared to those who run short racks. It's kind of like having a really short pencil and it's really rigid and hard to bend and I can see where short racks like that can be an issue because they dont give enough give to bend and flex. Then on the other hand if you have a really long pencil like a new one it's a lot easier to bend and has some play in it, like the rola rack with extension it's long enough where it could bend and flex especially too when it's in 3 pieces but again too the length allows it to bend just like a long pencil. If that makes sense Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  12. Well I'm glad you told me because I haven't gobbed the back of the housing [emoji23] will do that before the rain just dumps nonstop for 6 months lol Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  13. Alright second post. For the rack I used a Rola Rack with extension as the length almost fits perfectly on the roof of the pathy. For the hardware that I used were electrical conduit clamps that I picked up from Home Depot (they come in a pack of 5), lock washer, locking nut, bolt that threads into the stock sliders in the rails and a washer. Most of the hardware I had were Cerakoted black as I didn’t want a galvanized beacon on top of the truck which wouldn’t look so sharp. I chose Cerakote because it is extremely durable as it is a ceramic coating and they can withstand the abuse of the elements and tree branches. Cerakote also is flexible so when you clamp the conduits to the rack it doesn’t chip off. Cerakote application is a little involved as you have to get the materials for it and bake it but I have a certified Cerakote applicator at my work and he gave me a really good deal so I did that route. I used 10 clamps total and it holds the rack very securely, I can rock the whole vehicle by grabbing onto the rack and it doesn’t move or creak at all. I’ve driven up to 90 mph with it and had about 60 pounds of cargo up there and had no issues with it. I can flex the vehicle just fine without the unibody flexing the mounts off or ripping them out of the rail. The rack sits very low to the roof which could be a plus or minus. I can still open the sunroof but the glass touches the bar ever so slightly. After a couple of deadlifts of bending the bar upwards the glass still touches it. The rubber mouldings along the roof sit maybe a ¼ inch or less between the rack. I’m going to fix this issue by probably getting thicker washers and slightly longer bolts to help sit the rack a little bit higher so I can fit straps underneath the lower bar and the stock roof rack rails. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  14. I was going to make a write up about this as I knew people would be asking. It's a rola rack with extension and held on by electrical conduit clamps. Standby for the write up!
  15. Finally! Yeah its nice having the stock reflectors as a reference point to cut out. If they didn't have them I would've wired them to the rack Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  16. Hopefully these load Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  17. Alright so first real post here. So after skimming the internet I came across a pathy with frenched in backup lights in the rear bumper and I thought that was pretty slick. (I saw it on expedition portal and I believe his name was Allof75). He sparked the idea for me to do this mod so I went for it. I bought the Hella ValueFit 6 led floodlights off amazon and the wiring harness for a decent price as they were the size and shape I wanted. These lights almost fit perfectly in the rear bumper where the stock reflectors are. So what I did first was remove the plastic cover off the rear bumper to expose the steel bumper underneath. Where the reflectors are, there's already a open spot in the steel bumper where you could mount the lights in and there's a piece of sheet metal in that space where I mounted the lights to. Then the next step I "carefully" dremeled out the outline of the reflectors in the plastic bumper so it would contour to the lights. Then it was a matter of putting the plastic bumper back on and off to readjust the lights and to trim a little bit of the plastic to fit well. After everything was set I moved on to wiring. I ran the wires through the rubber grommet where the stock tow package wiring harness goes into the cab of the truck then I routed the wires behind the interior panels all the way to the front and out the firewall where there's a hole for the clutch for the manual's I assume. Instead of splicing the back up lights to the stock back up lights I opted for a on/off switch as I don't want to compromise the stock wiring and cause a short or something. Also I did this because I could turn it on when I want for lighting up work areas, campsites, tailgaters and what ever I need it for. I don't necessarily need them all the time so the switch works out perfect for me. This "mod" was pretty straight forward the most tedious job was trimming a hole in the rear bumper and mounting the lights to the steel rear bumper. Again first post here so I might've forgotten something along the way on this install but feel free to ask questions and I'll try my best to respond to them! Also I'm having issues uploading pictures here so standby for those.
  18. You sir are correct! Yeah I'm on instagram more and that's where I'm posting my "thread", it's theblackpathfinder on IG
  19. Hahaha how's it going? Yeah finally made it to the forums after 2 years. And thank you!
  20. Thanks man! Will do, I'll upload them to the TotM thread.
  21. Thank you! Yeah I've been wanting to make a thread about my rig for a long time and if it took me this long to post one picture, standby for the "slow" thread to come along ?
  22. Complete noob on here so let's see if this works
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