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Everything posted by PathyDude17

  1. Found this thread late, but BDS doesn't seem to support anything Nissan, based on their website. They don't make lifts for the R50 either. @Jotegir's advice above is great. Old Man Emu makes suspension, the aforementioned 2928 is a great part number. Dobinson also makes good stuff. Ironman4x4 and Automotive Customizers also makes springs for these. If you snoop around here you should be able to find builds that utilize these different options. I had AC coils, but I'm also a big proponent of the OME and the Dobinson equipment. Here's a really nice build that you might take some inspiration from: If you're not familiar with Land Rover coils as an option, those also work nicely in the rear. That's what the above build features. See what your shop likes, but if they're mostly familiar with Toyota's, our front end is not built the same way a 4runner or Tacoma works, ours is much closer to a typical sedan. You'll probably need camber bolts to get your front end alignment dialed. Here's my personal analysis of a lot of the front end coils:
  2. Ya, if you want 3.75 backspacing, you almost always have to go down to a 15" wheel or add spacers, its just not a spec that's readily available on 16 and 17 inch wheels for the most part. Interesting, I haven't seen many at -11, but it's basically equivalent to a -12. 4.03 vs 4.07 BS
  3. I think you're more likely to find wheels in the 16x8 -12mm, as that works out to 4" BS. I believe @Dbot has those wheels with ~32" tires on a 1.5-2" spring lift, no wheel spacers
  4. It is common. Both my R50 and my dad's R50 had these issues during ownership. Mine would stop at about 1/2 tank intermittently. Sometimes it would read accurately for the entire tank. They act up. The R50's were both VQ35DE vehicles. Not sure of the cause or the fix, both vehicles were sold with the problem still there....
  5. Those are the correct coils. For a completely level truck, maybe the rear AC coils. You can also cut a coil from the land rover coils to get them to sit lower, plenty of people have done that
  6. The "heavy duty" springs are OME springs sold through Automotive Customizers. You want the 2" lift coils that they sell for the front, if you want the actual AC coils. Adding NRC9449 will result in a 1.25-1.5" difference in height. The rear will be higher. Thanks man! Glad they've helped!
  7. The front of an R50 won't sustain much more than 2" of suspension lift, regardless of the method used. Springs are a better option for off-roading (and in general) to avoid the CV's encountering poor angles at full droop of the front suspension. Besides CV issues, it's hard to get an alignment at lifts greater than 2". Also, you're running out of downtravel and won't have much ride quality to speak of even if you could find a spring that would lift greater than 2 inches. I've seen spacers stacked on top of 2" lift springs. It kind of works, but it's not a surfire or worry-free way to lift an R50. I wouldn't get caught up on a number, whether its a 1.5" lift or 2" lift, you're still using the same basic IFS setup and all the limitations that are attached to that. Anything higher than those spring options (OME, AC, Ironman4x4, Dobinsons) will only properly be achieved with a SFD. I would keep it simple (stock) or minimal (just a spring lift) in the front to avoid headaches. Add manual hubs too.
  8. I would just start with tires. Until you take it out and use it for exactly what you want to do, it may be hard to know exactly what you want to change 1. Use the vehicle 2. Take not of issues or inconveniences 3. Modify as needed If you know you're gonna go camping, you'll probably want a nice set of All-Terrain (not all season) tires. You can make your way up almost any forest service road on highway tires, but in emergency weather or certain situations you'll want some better tread. Go for a snow rated all-terrain. If, from there, you notice deficiencies in the suspension, address them. But, as you add more modifications you will run into areas where you may have to compromise or do additional supporting mods/maintenance. The less you add, the easier the vehicle is to drive and maintain normally. You can start with the stock wheels and a tire that measures out between 29" (stock) and about 30.5" tall and you shouldn't have any issues with rubbing. I use tiresize.com to compare tire sizes. If you're towing and need help with that weight, you might get load helper/air helper bags or go with a stiffer rear spring from old man emu, ironman4x4, etc. If you go with new springs, or with the land rover springs , you may need to lift the front with a spring to get closer to level. Here's some front coil options Manual hubs are nice for people running lift or heavier tires, and can easily be installed yourself I do not recommend lift spacers on the front or the rear suspension. It's an inferior option. Skip the brush gaurds. They're a damage multiplier imo and they usually eat into your approach and departure angles. Steel wheels are not a bad option at all. If you want to go with really tall tires (taller than 31"), look for a wheel with 3.75 backspacing. This helps push the tire away from rubbing up against the lower strut/spring perch. Tall tires at that backspacing will require trimming in almost every case. Again, I would start with just the tires. You'd be very surprised how far you can get on just a stock vehicle and some forest service roads
  9. This setup should serve you well! Cool to see you got it all put together. Props to lokka on the 5 month shipping... lol. I think another lokka writeup would be great to have - there's so many details and moving parts, especially if you're coming into this as a novice mechanic.
  10. Mile Marker will not fit the 6 spoke LE wheels, Rugged Ridge will though
  11. The OME 2928 coil spring often nets lift in the range of 1.5" of lift when first installed, as its a spring that's designed to provide 0.5" of lift when paired with a heavier aftermarket steel bumper and winch. Putting a 2928 on a stock pathfinder is what causes the coil to lift 1.5" instead of 0.5". The OME 2923 is the same idea, but under a lighter load than the 2928. Other than buying stock replacement coils off of rockauto or wherever else, the OME 2923 coil will be the lowest lifting option for you. I'm not very familiar with exactly how much lift people get out of this coil when put on a stock vehicle, but I would guess about 0.75-1". Here's a good resource on the OME coils and a decent place to buy them from: https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/Nissan-pathfinder-coil-springs-R50.html If your springs are currently shot, you may be sitting well below stock height. If you went with the OME 2923 and also got a set of their medium duty rear coils (OME 2922) that might be a good solution for keeping the vehicle level and riding good. OME makes great springs. Otherwise, take a gamble on some stock-replacement coils. I do not know a reputable or well-liked brand for stock replacement springs, perhaps others do.
  12. I'll echo the concerns on Amayama. I ordered differential thrust washers in March of 2020 (I know, I know, bad time). I got a shipping confirmation in December 2021 and they are slated to show up March 2022. At the same time, it's an impossible part to find anywhere else on the internet, so I don't exactly know how to feel about that. Hopefully I can pass them on to someone else doing a lokka install.
  13. Besides having to change your username to Unibodiez, probably not. Most of the 01 VQ issues (mainly power valve screws and IACV gasket) happen at 100k-200k mile range. You’ll want to check the oil regularly in case it burns some or if it springs a leak- oil cooler, valve covers, rear main seal are some of the top culprits. Keep premium fuel in it. These are coil on plug engines as well, but the coil packs tend to stay in good shape for over 150k +. It’s a good idea to keep fresh fluid in the tranny, they don’t take well to abuse. these vehicles don’t typically have overheating issues. Just take it easy. If it’s been somewhat regularly run and maintained, it should be a smooth journey home. I’m sure other people will have something to add to the aforementioned.
  14. They’re not popular at all. Most people want higher lift and load capacity
  15. Something like OME 2922 might do, it’s basically just a load spring that will provide a little lift over true stock height. Link: https://www.desertrat.com/i-23326228-old-man-emu-by-arb-2922-coil-spring.html
  16. Yes. They have no idea what they’re talking about. Most 4x4 shops just do Jeep and Toyota stuff, and will be clueless on what works with R50’s.
  17. I’ve had 15x8 -19mm 3.75 backspace wheels for over 2 years. No problems. In fact, without that extreme of a backspacing, my wheels would rub the calipers, as later model year R50’s have bigger front brakes. Also, you need to do some research on backspacing math- offset and backspacing are different measurements, and their relationship varies with wheel width. Any number of YouTube videos can explain how to calculate it. also, tiresize.com has a backspacing calculator, which is handy for checking math. Use the “offset converter” in this link: https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/ There’s a short math explanation here along with how it applies to R50’s :
  18. Oh boy. I'll chime in on a runaway thread, against my better judgement When I first installed my spacer lift w/o manual hubs, my (presumably) OEM CV axles split almost immediately at the inner boots, I believe it was the inners first then eventually the outers got gnarly too. From what I gather, most boots split on a fresh lift, especially if the axles are old. On my 03 SE w/ the manual shift t case, I have had my current set of axles for about 1.5 years. I just pulled some junkyard axles in hopes they were OEM. At least one of them isn't (my driver side axle, relevant info later). These boots likely have tens, if not hundreds of thousands of miles on them. They were pulled off a stock R50 w/o manual hubs. The boots have experienced severe ranges of temperatures while on my vehicle, everything from -20 *F to 100 *F. I put them on several months after installing AC springs. I think the axles went on in July of 2019, and the AC springs in April of 2019. The entire time I have had those 07/19 axles on, I have had manual hubs. I still inevitably have put some typical road miles on them with hubs locked at speeds of up to 70mph, but mostly its only dirt miles with 4WD usage. These axles have seen approximately 20,000 miles of on pavement driving w/ hubs unlocked. They have endured two winters that saw minor 4WD usage (~10-20 miles of 4WD per winter season?), and many camping trips and trail outings that lead to locked hubs, 4WD, and full (measly) travel of the front suspension. These miles likely are in excess of 300 miles. My most recent trip was over 100 dirt/4WD miles. I have enough videos on youtube to indicate what kind of stresses my axles experience. I've had a lokka since May of 2020, and probably half of my wheeling/wintering/4WDing has been done with this lokka installed. Whether this has a discernable or predictable affect on wear is up to speculation. After all that, looking today, my driver side (the not OEM axle) outer boot is greasy (light film of grease, but not flinging grease everywhere), with every other boot on the vehicle being bone dry. Some basic math: The ~300 toughest miles my axles have experienced, spread across 18 months, has had not so nearly as bad a result as your moderate/light usage (though probably higher than 300 miles) across a shorter time span. This is comparable, as we are on identical front suspension (arguably you have the advantage with the weight of your front bumper). So there's at least two different axles that can put up with the AC lift + the upper limits of what my R50 can safely handle off road. I would speculate the same would be true of your situation. Thanks for listening to that lengthy anecdote. Take this for what it is. Maybe you'll just have to go up to the Rockfords, but I'm not fully convinced that your experience is totally normal.
  19. The OME struts are documented as slightly having longer travel than some/most/all stock struts. The stock strut specs changes from brand to brand and even from model year to model year, meaning that not all of the OEM struts have the same exact travel. If you’re really concerned, some googling of part numbers and catalogues can easily confirm or deny this for your specific application. Different valving/loading characteristics of struts aside, more travel would generally lead to less top out. Whether this is a noticeable decrease in top out remains to be seen, as no one has done a side by side comparison. What I can say-they’ll fit, and it will likely be the nicest riding AC front coil setup you can get.
  20. do you have any links or retailer info on the sleeves? For pre-facelift owners who can’t swap bolt size on the lower mount (unlike post facelift owners who can on the upper mount), it would be nice to have a verified part number, as the bushing/bolt fitment is really the number one issue with fitting bilsteins to these vehicles, and I don’t usually have a good answer when prefacelift owners ask me about this. Thanks, and glad to see you got the issue settled.
  21. 9447 vs 9449 is a personal preference, check out their specs here: http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html The 9449 is just 50lbs/inch stiffer for carrying more weight. MOST people use stock replacement struts (ie, anything you can find on rockauto), with the OME being the only true aftermarket struts available. If you really want to take a deep dive into struts, you could research some of the other Australian companies that make struts with their lift kits, and see if you could coerce them to ship over here. I’ve yet to see that done. Top out varies from ride to ride. On My AC/KYB front setup, I don’t have any complaints (it is certainly stiffer than the OME coils though) and many of my friends who have done the same also like this setup, but I know other people who are not as satisfied. If you’re not 100% set on them, consider a dobinson or OME 2928 front setup, those are great coils, and if they’re too short for you you can pretty safely add a 1” spacer after they’ve settled. Correct on the 33-185552. You need to swap one of the bushings, or (at your own risk of damage to the bushing) use washers and clamp it down so tight it doesn’t move. The obvious, better choice, is to locate a new bushing. I’m not sure where one does that. On facelift R50’s, you can swap the bolt on the upper mount, I’m unsure of the same option is available to you on the lower mount. compressinng the AC coils without a professional spring compressor is usuallly sketchy, I’ve yet to see anyone try the AC coils with that specific tool, though I’d be optimistic about it working. That tool has been used very successfully to compress OME coils. Hope that helps!

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