PathyDude17

It can also be a u joint on the front driveshaft. Check for play on those u joints, I know it’s happened to other people on here.

If you have the same wheels (tri spokes) (I believe there’s 2 different wheels you can get on a 00-01), as this guy, here’s a visual and a thread. he’s fitting the same size of 33’s.: https://forums.nicoclub.com/fitting-33-s-on-the-2in-r50-ac-lift-t494106.html if you have the other OEM wheel (pictures below), it looks like Steve ( @fleurys ) is using 1.25” wheel spacers to fit 33’s. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/profile/5125-fleurys/ I hope this helps. I couldn’t quickly find backspacing for the OEM wheels, although I can find them for late model wheels pretty easy

Backspacing only matters when trying to fit larger tires. Swapping to AC coils will not require any kind of change in backspacing. I believe you may have gotten confused by the statement on 4x4parts.com website. As far as figuring out the backspacing on your wheels, find a site that has at least the width and the offset of those wheels. Backspacing = (Rim Width + 1”)/2 + (offset in inches). If the offset is negative, that means you’re subtracting it from the first calculation. if you want/need to, you can always check your calculations agains tiresize.com as they have a backspacing calculator. Also a good resource for comparing tire sizes.

another update @deltaR50 provided me with a website that carries a generic VQ35DE harness that resembles exactly the maxima one. It can be purchased as an already assembled pigtail, which is awesome: https://www.wiringspecialties.com/vq35-throttle-motor-connector-tps-dbw/ Here’s a video for visual on the maxima harness:

Finally, I have a full update to this problem: Short Version: Broken Harness, replaced with harness from 02 Maxima. Longer Version: No one makes thst 6 pin harness for the TPS on an R50. It doesn’t exist. The closest thing I could find was a build your own harness for an Xtrail that was identical to the eventual maxima harness. I tried the x trail harness, but even after I built it it didn’t work, which ended up being a good thing. I found a TPS harness on an 02 maxima at a junkyard. Again, it looks exactly like the x trail one I used. Not only is the maxima harness an actual fix (I already test drove and successfully performed relearn procedures), it has a better locking mechanism- a simple lever that is released with decent effort, but otherwise stays perfectly locked into place. Glad to finally have her back and running again.

Strato beat me to it haha. Forgive the video quality of that lift kit video... but it's a good reference for people who aren't familiar with lifting these, and I have several other videos that explain the rear options, Land Rover Part Numbers, and other common supporting modifications for lifting these vehicles (missing link, for example). This is the full playlist here Also a decent reference for finding online parts would be this video They're not perfect, but I hope they help establish a solid foundation of information. I'm sure we'll be happy to continue to answer any questions you have, but the videos are able to combine audio, video, and visual demonstrations more easily than forum posts.

Correct. Just the springs, on normal KYB struts. Adding any kind of spacers to the AC coils is not advisable

They're the 2" Lift springs from 4x4parts.com . $180 plus $70 shipping. They are stiffer than the OME coils and lift higher. The 380 number isn't verified by anything as far as I can remember. That being said, the AC coils would likely sag less under the weigh of a front bumper. "better for the load" is subjective, so I'll leave it at that. Having ridden in and been around both, the AC coils definitely handle stiffer and lift higher.

Consider the above statement as "pending review". I just got in touch with a few other pre-facelift owners, and was informed that his rear sway bar is removed. I think I need more data before I can fully prove or disprove the assertion that the pre-facelift will function noticeably differeantly in terms of shock lengths and keeping coils seated. The shock mounts definitely do change, but its unclear what kind of precise effect this has on shock lengths and unseating coils. Just thought I'd mention that while the thread and info is still fresh.

I think I’m missing the logic of cutting down the spring.... if the bushing is wearing down, then it’s probably moving excessively, ie, something’s not tight. The 26” shocks that you’re currently using have been used for years on similar levels of rear lift with no known issues. Additionally, no matter what spring you put in the rear, your suspension will still travel and move the same as it always has, thus moving your shock in the same manner as before. The problem is with the shock- it’s bushings, or how it’s been attached. Just my $0.02

Not to jump the gun on the shocks and shock mount info, but one thing I already do know about the 33 185569's is that they're not suitable for pre facelift shock mounts unless you have alot of lift. I've personally had to reseat @micahfelker's 9448's (yes, NRC9448 springs with no coils cut), back after they drop out at full flex. The pre facelift shock mounts are close enough together that a 30" fully extended shock is just too long, whereas my 9449's stay seated at full flex (I have a 2003).

Dang that looks awesome, I like that alot

That’s how I poked holes in the slider with a Flathead... had it in the locked position and started pushing, but thanks for replying

2003 VQ35DE with Drive by Wire I took off my intake for regular maintenance, as well as changing spark plugs. To clear room, I disconnected the TPS sensor on the Throttle body from its harness. Last week i started putting stuff together, and the TPS harness won't go onto the TPS plug. I need insight on whether the harness is broken, damaged, or if my methods are inadequate. But first pictures, so that you all will have a better idea of what I'm talking about. This is the Harness: This is the plug on the TPS: Here's what I know so far: The springs (you can see their white/clear tops in the top section of the harness) are contacting the guides on the TPS (the two guides with the rectangle between them in the last picture). I cannot push the springs far enough out of the way to change this. Even after lubricating the springs and TPS plug, I can't get the springs to slide past the guide. This contact causes the sliding/locking mechanism on the backside of the harness to get pushed back when sliding the harness onto the TPS plug. Or, if you slide the locking mechanism all the way back, put the harness on the TPS plug, and then try and push the locking mechanism all the way forward, the TPS plug gets pushed off the harness. It was my initial assumption that the springs are supposed to slide past the guides, but I'm not super confident on that. So, lets say the springs are supposed to contact and push against the guides. If that's the case, then fine. I'll push harder, but I've already poked holes in backside of the sliding mechanism from pushing with a flathead screwdriver. If I take the springs out of the harness, it doesn't lock onto the TPS plug with any force other than the friction between the two surfaces. I can pull the harness off without touching locking/sliding mechanism on the backside of the harness. The harness appears to be in working shape and not damaged, nor do I recall any snapping noises when I pulled it off the TPS plug last week. When just inspecting the harness, if I push the locking mechanism all the way forward, it clicks into place, seeming to suggest that it works. Any insight is greatly appreciated, as my truck has now been sitting in the driveway for a week. I'd have to tow it to a shop or drive it to one with the TPS harness shoddily connected, and I'm not sure what a shop would do or tell me to do at this point.

Well, COVID 19 shut down my school for at least the next month, so I’ve been back in Idaho since Sunday. Already went ahead and made a trip to my favorite trail!

That looks like a blast! If you hop on Instagram and check out Notajeep4x4, they often have Xterra meet ups and rides on Rausch creek.

For organization, don’t ask random questions in other people’s build threads. That being said, here’s what you’re looking for:

the only real recovery point to plan on using on a trail would be a trailer hitch + d ring in the rear, the front needs a bumper + reinforcement

It looks pretty normal, I don’t doubt that he has legitimate Land Rover springs, whatever part number he got. There’s no front lift that will level Land Rover springs, let alone MD’s without a spacer. The HD’s are a definite step up in weight rating and will lift a higher height, about 1.25-1.5” according to rugged rocks. Even on AC’s and 9449’s I have about 1-1.25” of rake. See post #167 for a picture of freshly installed HD’s with Land Rover springs:

He’s got MD’s not HD’s. Read post #7

I see you’ve got a d-ring in your driver side tow hook: just so you’re aware, there’s a moderate consensus that you shouldn’t recover a vehicle or be recovered using those front tow hooks, they’re really not designed with that scenario in mind. They seem to be totally ok for simple towing, but if a vehicle is really stuck or hung up, they’ve been known to fail:

This picture is screen saver quality

Looking good! I can’t wait to get back to Idaho!

I think @micahfelker is 4.0 BS on that exact tire size. That being said, most people still go for 3.75 since it’s an easy enough spec to find on 16” or 15” rims. (8” wide with -19 mm offset).

3.75 Backspace is the magic number if you want guaranteed fitment for any tire larger than 31” tall. If it’s 31” or less, backspacing doesn’t matter much