PathyDude17

just barely used the sliders today, and found this difficult obstacle, which highlighted my need for a locker. With how the trail approaches this 2-3 foot step at a 90* angle, I couldn’t keep all of either my rear or front end perfectly in traction. I feel like a front locker would’ve pulled me right over. I’ll have the money here to swing one soon, but I’m worried about install-I don’t think I can do it myself

Never checked codes, limp always goes away on its one with no other issues

This is a real shot in the dark, but my vehicle has gone into limp mode 3 times in the 9 months that I’ve had it. Each time that’s happened, it’s been on the same day that I do a sloppy change from Reverse to Drive (put it in drive while the car is still rolling back). But at the same time, without fail, if I properly shift the car, it doesn’t go into limp mode. This could have nothing or everything to do with your problem, but it’s my only frame of reference for dealing with this.

I mean sliders are cool and all, I can see how they might be useful, but are you sure your not just tryna copy me? Looks good dude. Can’t wait to see you get some sliders! And for our rigs to get more similar again?

Bro that looks good. What’d You finally settle on for the front end? Also, let’s see you show off that tire carrier lol

Thanks! Shot on iPhone 8 lol. Use “@“ and then start typing the username, click on the suggestions. There’s also a “quote” button at the bottom of each post

AC coils are an option for the front, there’s a brief discussion of OME vs AC springs in my “R50 projects” thread- some people with heavy front bumpers have had good experiences with OME springs, other people prefer or wish they had chosen AC springs. It’s all about what you want, the AC springs will sag less under weight and ride stiffer. I have them and love them. That’s not to say I also didn’t enjoy driving @02_Pathy‘s rig on well-broken (2 years old?) in OME springs

No front diff, no cv axles, no front driveshaft. That’s some real weight reduction

That’s what I like to hear. And you own your music outright as opposed to renting it

I added the pre-facelift bar that attaches to the front diff and front unibody. Im hoping it keeps dirt out of my front end, I’ll probably bolt on some steel to add more coverage (and if I’m lucky it will help me push through snow?). I also now have two CV axles from the local JY, although the one on the right is not OEM. Oh well. I was thinking about rebooting but honestly the boots seem to be in good shape.

@RainGoat $500, not $550 lol. $250 sliders +$30 mounts + $220 weld job. You were right

Thanks! I generously sprayed around, but I’ll double check the frame rails and the hard to reach spots

Oops, I guess I was just looking to see the direct link- ya that ones based off a 2001.5, so I wouldn’t be surprised if prefacelift is different.

https://forums.nicoclub.com/topic563777.html all interior bulb sizes

I’m very impressed, this is sick

And then a $30 gusset kit, weld job was $220 exactly, so $550. this is how he mounted them. He welded the brackets on and then the sliders to the brackets. He opted out on gusseting at the frame rail and instead gusseted at the first horizontal bar.

The way I have them mounted, they could not work better. Perfect step up to the roof rack or a good middle step to get to the top of the tire. My shorter (5’0”-5’-6”) friends use them to get in and out of the car, at 6’3/4” (that’s the height on my medical documents) they’re a little awkward to use and I usually step over them. Ultra perfect placement in my opinion

Ya, that price is only for install. The sliders that I bought were the trail gear 67” DIY kit, ran me $250 on amazon

I’ll never surpass your lightbar superiority

Someday I want to be like you. Looking good as always dude

Thanks! I’m trying to have fun with it, the biggest thing is I love the places it takes me and the people it’s introduced me to!

The welding job was just over $200: his rate is $65 an hour plus materials.

Well, here’s some of the math if you weren’t aware of the numbers: Stock shock length:24” F250: 26”. The shock doesn’t sit straight up and down, so a 2” longer shock doesn’t give you 2” more of downward articulation. As I understand it, going to an F250 shock only maintains or slightly disimproves on stock articulation, and it’s not like OEM suspension is a .5” from popping a coil either. So, my understanding is that with a true 2” spring lift, you should have no real issues going beyond 26” on shocks, as long as you extend the necessary components. Any of the LR options should be able to run 29’s. KYB should have some shocks in that length. It’s all about figuring out what length is gonna make you lose a coil, but I bet you could run 26” shocks on OE springs, let alone a 2” lift. Other option is sell the Q and get a 4x4 before you get in too deep, because other than an rear locker and good tires, you can’t do much to make it more capable