PathyDude17

Totally understandable. if you had given me 5k dollars last october when i got the vehicle versus 5k now, you'd see two very different pathfinders. Best of luck!

If it where my vehicle in that color, leave it stock for now. That’s a really good color and fine looking paint. Wait until you get new wheels/tires and then decide if you need to change other stuff to complement them, as the wheels are more permanent than is the color of you fenders and bumper.

I didn’t really feel like trying to be an artist with that, would’ve been a little difficult to get that line nailed down. As for the wheels, there in my profile page. DX4 Gear Wheels, 15x8 3.75 BS. I got them before I realized fake beadlocks were a thing, but oh well. Sorry to thread hijack @Buttercup

For reference, here’s how my black plasti dip enhanced with glossifier turned out, I’m definitely a fan of it.

Is it possible to touch up that area with vinyl wrap?

You may consider 16x8 steelies, as that would allow you to run the same height but a slightly narrower, tire. Depends on what your looking for though.

Ok i was wondering if that was the case. I do think my rear diff has the mounting bracket for it though, could be wrong.

After being under my pathfinder several times and taking a good look at ones in the JY, I have realized that I don’t have a load sensing Valve connected to my rear axle. How big of an issue is that?

I’ve yet to top out my AC springs on the road, and I haven’t changed driving style at all. Hopefully I’ll get off the pavement next week though and see if that holds true. If I do experience top out I’ll be interested to see how you rig up limiting straps. Not many people have done it on R50’s

If you get new hubs, you can leave your CV boots alone for a while, as they won’t be turning at all and thus stay in the same condition. Honestly, if you’ve got a torn boot, your better off replacing the entire axle. Once dirt gets in there you run the risk of the axle being shot. I’ve had torn boots for 5-6 months now, just hav ent gotten around to pulling something out at a JY to replace them with. It takes a lot for them to fail. So I guess my advice would be to get new rims. That would allow you to run bigger tires cause the rim is wider, and you can fit manual hubs no problem. But if you want a “cool” aftermarket aluminum wheel, then you’re gonna have to get spacers.

Heres the frame. Markings indicated a 2005 F250. I pulled the bumpstops off somewhere on the frame, but I can’t remember. Probably closer to the front half of the frame

1 bolt per side and you’re done, assuming it’s easy to access, which in my case it was. I saw them sitting nice and exposed on a naked frame, which is what gave me the idea in the first place

No, I think they were on the rear. Full size trucks have a different bump stop setup. heres a picture of my dad’s F150, this is essentially what I pulled off the JY truck

I Know EXACTLY who that is lol. Jeep owners, am I right? As far as what model F250 they were, I can maybe go look, but it was just a frame left. I’m at the JY tomorrow pulling a part for someone else, so i’ll go check.

I pulled bump stops off an old F250 at the JY, $3. They stacked nicely on top of my old bump stops. They’re about 1.5-2” longer. I would’ve used the top mounting location, but I snapped a bolt, so they’re anchored to the lower perch, which is probably functional but not ideal.

I’ll just try to keep this as simple as possible. For any of the coil spring lifts available, it is impossible to damage your CV axles by running those coils. AC coils of any kind, as well as OME coils of any kind, will not harm your axles, though they may accelerate wear on the cv boots (hence manual hubs). The trouble with CV axles can only occur when spacers are added. Usually a 1” spacer is safe. So, what we’re really talking about is the lift heights that are available. Check the weight ratings in the MD springs, as they’re rated to give .5” of lift under a specific load (likely similar to the weight of a front bumper). The HD coils generally give 1.25” of lift with no weight, but sag down below that when a bumper is added (.5-1”). AC coils will give a minimum of 2”, and will sag minimally under the weight of a bumper. It comes down to what you want your pathfinder to do in terms of weight capacity, lift height, and handling. Generally OME is conceded as the better feeling spring in terms of ride quality, but plenty of people like their AC coils as well. As for the rear, go with LR springs, there’s really nothing better. see page 7.

There’s more than enough information on this forum to answer all of those questions. It all depends on what you, the driver of the vehicle, are looking for. For example, how high do you want the truck to sit? Without knowing that, no one here can tell you if those coils will pair well with your bumper and tire carrier.

Vision should also make steel wheels like the unique or pro comp

Absolutely, JY’s are your friend for anything. One of my several mistakes I made with my pathfinder was buying an OE grill for $70. I found a honeycomb one a few months later for $5, and that’s what’s gonna be on my R50 for the foreseeable future

Totally agree, that's how i go about putting my wheels back on, never had problems

For anyone wondering how the AC coils ride, I’ve got about 70 road miles on them, freeway, backroads, city, etc, and honestly I don’t have any issues with how they ride on road. Tight handling and it takes the bumps solidly. Stiff, of course, but not uncomfortable. I’ll give an update when I have the chance to go off-road as well. Also I haven’t changed my driving at all and no topping out experiences yet.

You have a few options for hubs. Warn, rugged ridge, and Mike marker. Mike marker is the cheapest, but not the slimmest. You can do your own research on which one you prefer, but I think if you want to fit hubs on your stock wheels you need to bezel out the center bore/use wheel spacers. Should be plenty of info on the forum

Don’t hold off on the hubs, and ya you’ll have an easy time fitting hubs with steelies as opposed to your stock rims, though it can be done. Look for an advance autoparts discount and get the mile maker 435’s

My stock 03 se wheels were 16x7 with 45mm offset. The easiest wheel for you to find will be a 15x8 or 16x8 with -19mm offset. Otherwise, spacers will suffice. But honestly, a working set of steelies isn’t more than $70 a rim. You sell your old wheels for $150 (I sold mine for $120 on Craigslist) and you’re not out much, especially compared to what it takes to buy good spacers.

Same, I’ve got 2-3 probably