PathyDude17

I am by no means a fabricating expert, but from seeing other rear bumpers in person, and consulting about it with the professional who welded my sliders, why would you not take off the rear bumper cover and hitch, and weld or bolt the rear bumper onto the plate where the hitch is currently bolted in? This would save weight and departure angle on your bumper design, and then the weight of the bumper wouldn’t be leveraging onto the end of the tow hitch, but would be directly mounted to the body.

Dang, I like the color. You chose the right forum to post on, welcome to the club!

If you have Instagram, look up midohio_nissan_organization, that’s where I got the video from. Also try changing your browser or if you’re in dark theme then change that too

cone filter

Do worry about stuff getting into the intake, especially if you’re adding a cone filter that’s not getting boxed in in any way. Or if you have fender wells that are modified or removed. I have seen 2 nissans hydrolocked in very shallow water in the last 6 months. Take water crossings very slowly. 1 was a stock intake with missing fender wells trying to bog through mid-rim deep mud, the other was an open cone filter rallying through a similar depth puddle of mud

To keep the discussion concise, this topic was discussed in this thread a few pages back. I should have replied with this initially

Yikes. While this thread started with good intentions, getting people together all at the same time is difficult. I didn’t fully realize that when I first undertook this thread. I do in fact have to attend a golf trip during spring break, so I’m continuing to communicate and look at different times with various members of the PNW. Looking at coming up to washington in early May after I finish up the semester and head home

the QX4 wheels look awesome!

Taking some of the hard lines with some local Toyota’s and a sweet Xterra 2x locked on 35’s. Interesting to see how the wheelbases and drivetrains played out. An open/open double cab made it up this waterfall but the 4runner (1x locked) and my borrowed 2dr Jeep (2x locked, although the front locker seemed to not be engaging) couldn’t. The green truck was attempting a different obstacle that stumped everyone who tried it save one other tacoma. Fun day overall. I got a camera for Christmas and have been enjoying using it.

If something in the front drivetrain were to break or get damaged, being able to disconnect the front drivetrain at the hubs is very useful. It’s not a likely or common occurrence, but it is a possibility. And manual hubs make it easier to run an auto locker in the front

The mpg savings eventually pays for themselves, and you don’t have to go all the way up to warn hubs, Mike marker 435’s are $100 and usually 15-20% on advance auto

Changing shocks is optional, but you may or may not notice them reaching maximum extension more on speed bumps or off road terrain. They will definitely limit the articulation if the 9447’s. A 26” bilstein shock (OEM is 24”) is pretty cheap if you do end up wanting to get new shocks.

Thanks for the feedback! It’s good to hear that you’ve had such awesome results with your spring lift over such a long period of use! Hopefully this video isn’t too late to help a lot of people out.

@mjotrainbrain encouraged me to post this video. There seems to be no simple guides to lift kits, and the difference between spacers and springs, especially in how they affect the front suspension. While I'm no suspension expert, and this video is missing alot, especially in terms of rear lift options (and I forgot to mention the possibility of AC spring top-out, though I haven't had any issues with it myself), here's a small introduction into the lift methods available, as well as the brands that sell them, and an attempt at explaining why spacer lifts affect the suspension geometry different. If there's any info in here thats technically incorrect, feel free to point it out. Im sure there's stuff missing, so feel free to comment. Thanks!

More of what I've been up to over break: Junkyards and Wheeling!

AC coils from 4x4parts.com. The other, more popular option is OME HD lift springs. Do your research on which one would suit your needs best, or stick with spacers and know the potential problems

either method of lift will likely need camber bolts. But unlike a spacer lift, lifting your front end with springs will not put your CV axles at angles that are known to destroy CV axles. I use to have a spacer lift. They ride like crap, caused my passenger axle to bind under throttle and when turning right, and I got off of them before I could blow up an axle going Offroad. I have a spring lift now and I love it. Rides better, is safer for my axles, and doesn’t sag under weight.

I’d suggest reading up on spacer lifts, and if you plan to do anything that might put a front wheel in the air, sell the spacer kit and opt for springs in the front and probably the rear as well. Spacers, by lifting on top of the strut, will put your cv axles at out of spec angles, whereas a spring lift is still contained by the strut and will not damage your CV axles. A spring lift in the rear will allow for better load bearing and handling at lifted height

The winter break vehicle, now that I’m in Idaho for the next 3 weeks. If you’ve never had the chance to try out this platform before, I highly recommend it. The Rubicon trim comes with front and rear lockers. With its gearing, I was able to idle up 45% grades, and the lockers make everything a breeze. It definitely has its disadvantages, but as a cheap local toy it’s a blast.

I DM’d you on Instagram

The new chicken lights are dope!

If anyone needs Junkyard parts in the upcoming 3 weeks, let me know, I’d love to pull some parts My local junkyard has lots of pathfinders, both WD21 and R50. things I’ve pulled in the past (for myself or others): T- case Skid (fits manual tcase on R50’s, great find in my opinion) wooden trim trailer hitch roof rack pieces interior plastic trim fan control amp grilles tire carriers cv axles ($26 for OEM axles) Brake line pieces exterior trim fog lights PM me if you have any questions or parts requests!

He picked a lower performing 6500k HID bulb for testing, and the LED only won when put into a specific projector, and some of the LED’s were worse than a stock halogen bulb.This is far from convincing testing. Shoving light bulbs into housings they weren’t designed for and then calling one a “winner” and the other a “loser” is arbitrary. Unless you own one of those housings/projectors I don’t think the test results really are applicable.

Come on, just put 35’s on her already

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCXQrfhnybLbMyjHGTcriRCQ I won’t be uploading anything else for a while, but if you want to see any of what little footage I have you can find it here