PathyDude17

Lol, CE meaning civil engineering. I like the coursework ( and even did some job shadowing). That’s what’s available the most of in Idaho. It’s been good so far! I’m more mechanically inclined/interested than a few of my ME friends haha, it’s fun getting to work in shops and put together stuff with your hands. thanks for watching, dropped on this weekend, and plan to squeeze out a few more during 2020, especially if school closes at thanksgiving of this year.

Awesome to hear my channel helped you out! She looks great! I’m studying for a BS CE myself right now, have lots of ME friends and roommates.

Eh, I could do without it. I wasn’t enjoying trying to explain it to my non-gear head passengers. It makes the conditions look worse than they are, and I’ll be sticking to 4WD moving forward.

Saw this pop up in comments on my YouTube channel. They both got marked as spam by YouTube. whats the real advantage of a discord compared to other forms of communication....?

So, with the first snow today, I got to see the performance of the lokka in snow. So far, in a couple of inches of fresh powder, I was pretty impressed with how the vehicle handles. Turning at low speeds wasn't too difficult, and the lokka would actually unlock and allow differential action at low speeds, maintaining a tight turn radius. I suspect that Ice will not be very fun with the lokka, but this setup is probably as good or better than typical 4WD in general snowy road conditions. The vehicle self centered super easily, was way less squirrely than in 2WD, and had lots of traction. See the video below for more. I wasn't super fond of how the LSD behaved, especially when in RWD only. Pretty squirrely driving, and not that great in the snow. Definitely enough traction to get around, but the rear end swings out pretty easily.

First snow

I’ve had good luck with my smittybilt Kenentic strap. I used it last winter to pull a Suburban out of a snowy ditch, and less impressively to flip a RAZR back onto its wheels. Slightly lower weight rating than the ARB, but not too bad Link: https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-CC120-Snatch-Strap-Rating/dp/B003EP2XIU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=smittybilt+kinetic+rope&qid=1603379060&sr=8-5

At that price, a full rear bumper and tire carrier might be more cost effective. A tube bumper with a simple tire carrier could likely be had at that price, or an OEM swingate if you can find one.

https://www.bxbuilt.com/product-page/toyota-h4-diy-kit-4runner-tacoma-tundra-sequoia If you have questions about any of the products, the owners name is Andrew and you should be able to find him on Facebook and Instagram as BX BUILT. might as well drop a link to YouTube video too

save up, and get something that will really boost performance... In my experience, LED bulbs were only a mild boost in lighting, and weren’t great in snow or rain. these are bi - LED projectors. It’s a DIY kit sold by BX built. Obviously gonna cost 2-4 times as much as aftermarket LED bulbs, but you get what you pay for- clean cutoff and intense light throw. Even a cheaper amazon or eBay projector kit is likely a better route.

It’s a 99.5 warn hubs are a little over $200 https://www.amazon.com/WARN-29091-Premium-Manual-Hubs/dp/B000CQDPIQ/ref=asc_df_B000CQDPIQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312026024613&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2703211307294135226&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018273&hvtargid=pla-491820788601&psc=1

This. theres very little member overlap from the FB page to the forum. Hosting pics can get pretty quick and easy once you find a service you like. I use Imgur. You upload photos onto an account you creat for their website, and then they have special links for all kinds of image hosting. It works best if posting into NPORA on a laptop, but I do plenty with the Imgur mobile app and NPORA’s website in safari.

They sell a body lift now, it’s one of their newest products https://sfcreation.com/products/r51-pathfinder-body-lift-kit-1

Post #38 on @Dbot ‘s build thread gives a visual. Basically just drill out the mounting holes, and find a larger bolt that fits the provided sleeve.

Yes, this is my understanding. To be more precise, drill out the mount to fit a grade 8 bolt that fits nicely inside a sleeve that bilstein supplies, or something of that nature.

Even though people regularly get them confused, Iowa is nothing like Idaho

All post facelift grills are the same mounting. I had an 03 SE but swapped to the honeycomb no problem. Just try not to break any of the plastic clips when removing the grills.

That shock will have 16mm eyes on both sides. Pathfinders are 12mm and 16mm. The location of the 12mm goes from the lower mount to the upper mount at the 1999.5 model year

Hehe, those subs came with my first car, the RWD 4runner I had. They were professionally installed in that vehicle, so I just transferred them over to my R50 when the time came. I’ve never bothered to check the specs on what they’re pulling/running. They’re loud though, twin 12’s in a ported box. A single 10 would be plenty for my taste, but this is what I have. Maybe I’ll take a look into it sometime

Headlight install video. Need to do some stuff showing light output too

Late to the party, but I’d add to @RainGoat ‘a sentiment in the sense that an aftermarket setup surpasses stock or worn suspensions parts. I’d describe my stock ride quality as bouncy, and my new setup as stiff/tight. Those are different, and I definitely prefer stiff. Any bumpy movements are handled quickly and predictably, compared to stock where you felt the entire truck (especially the rear end) seem to go from full bump/compression to well past ride height. It was super annoying, and the LR/Bilstein combo in the rear helped fix that a ton. The OME’s really are smooth, it’s awesome. The choice between the two front setups often comes down to usage/preference. thanks for the kind words on my R50 @01Pathmaker, I appreciate it

As much as I hate to say it, it seems like experiences with AC coils have some variance. I get pretty solid trail usage out of my R50, and I also do plenty of daily driving (I did almost 1000 miles today, yup, 1k). I don’t really get top out except for when I fail to slow down for unforeseen trail obstacles. It’s a stiff ride, I’ve driven a broken-in OME, and no doubt it was a smoother ride. But, at the same time, I’ve never considered switching after installing the AC’s. I’ve heard and talked with other other people who seem to get more top out than I do, @Dbot being one of the two or three conversations I’ve had about it. cant go wrong with the land rovers, 9447 or the stiffer 9449 are both great from everything I’ve heard and personally experienced. I have the 9449’s. Those are two solid part numbers that won’t give much more or less than an inch of rake if you lift the front 2”

I believe @fleurys had that auto mode t case and a rear locker? I know he’s done a lot of digging on the auto case and has f/r lockers, but can’t remember what case he has. @R50JR has lokka and auto mode, but I don’t think he uses it as he lives in Arizona. From what I know, you can lock both ends with the auto mode case, as long as you make proper adjustments / commit to certain scenarios. if you’re in auto mode, never have the locker switched on. if you’re not in auto mode, do whatever you want. @RainGoat is heading towards this if I remember correctly, and should be able to contribute anything I missed or got wrong It seems to me that the only issues can occur when you are in auto mode and turn on the locker, but I’ll defer to anyone who has actually tried that or can point to better info there shouldn’t be any drivetrain incompatibilities in terms of gear ratio. I cannot, however, remember if the ARB requires an open carrier. Many (All?) auto lockers require open carriers to drop into.

Last summer project Subwoofer shelf. It keeps my ugly emergency gear out of the way and hidden, and it leaves 2/3 of the trunk to sleep in or maximize space. I didn’t create any more space obviously, but I prefer this layout for the things I usually use my R50 for. Currently, the shelf is screwed into the floor in the two places it rests on sheet metal, and then the subwoofer is supported by 2x4’s on 3 sides, and 2 screws into the shelving in the rear. It needs some straps/ropes from the subwoofer to the floor in order to be complete, in my opinion.