PathyDude17

They sell a body lift now, it’s one of their newest products https://sfcreation.com/products/r51-pathfinder-body-lift-kit-1

Post #38 on @Dbot ‘s build thread gives a visual. Basically just drill out the mounting holes, and find a larger bolt that fits the provided sleeve.

Yes, this is my understanding. To be more precise, drill out the mount to fit a grade 8 bolt that fits nicely inside a sleeve that bilstein supplies, or something of that nature.

Even though people regularly get them confused, Iowa is nothing like Idaho

All post facelift grills are the same mounting. I had an 03 SE but swapped to the honeycomb no problem. Just try not to break any of the plastic clips when removing the grills.

That shock will have 16mm eyes on both sides. Pathfinders are 12mm and 16mm. The location of the 12mm goes from the lower mount to the upper mount at the 1999.5 model year

Hehe, those subs came with my first car, the RWD 4runner I had. They were professionally installed in that vehicle, so I just transferred them over to my R50 when the time came. I’ve never bothered to check the specs on what they’re pulling/running. They’re loud though, twin 12’s in a ported box. A single 10 would be plenty for my taste, but this is what I have. Maybe I’ll take a look into it sometime

Headlight install video. Need to do some stuff showing light output too

Late to the party, but I’d add to @RainGoat ‘a sentiment in the sense that an aftermarket setup surpasses stock or worn suspensions parts. I’d describe my stock ride quality as bouncy, and my new setup as stiff/tight. Those are different, and I definitely prefer stiff. Any bumpy movements are handled quickly and predictably, compared to stock where you felt the entire truck (especially the rear end) seem to go from full bump/compression to well past ride height. It was super annoying, and the LR/Bilstein combo in the rear helped fix that a ton. The OME’s really are smooth, it’s awesome. The choice between the two front setups often comes down to usage/preference. thanks for the kind words on my R50 @01Pathmaker, I appreciate it

As much as I hate to say it, it seems like experiences with AC coils have some variance. I get pretty solid trail usage out of my R50, and I also do plenty of daily driving (I did almost 1000 miles today, yup, 1k). I don’t really get top out except for when I fail to slow down for unforeseen trail obstacles. It’s a stiff ride, I’ve driven a broken-in OME, and no doubt it was a smoother ride. But, at the same time, I’ve never considered switching after installing the AC’s. I’ve heard and talked with other other people who seem to get more top out than I do, @Dbot being one of the two or three conversations I’ve had about it. cant go wrong with the land rovers, 9447 or the stiffer 9449 are both great from everything I’ve heard and personally experienced. I have the 9449’s. Those are two solid part numbers that won’t give much more or less than an inch of rake if you lift the front 2”

I believe @fleurys had that auto mode t case and a rear locker? I know he’s done a lot of digging on the auto case and has f/r lockers, but can’t remember what case he has. @R50JR has lokka and auto mode, but I don’t think he uses it as he lives in Arizona. From what I know, you can lock both ends with the auto mode case, as long as you make proper adjustments / commit to certain scenarios. if you’re in auto mode, never have the locker switched on. if you’re not in auto mode, do whatever you want. @RainGoat is heading towards this if I remember correctly, and should be able to contribute anything I missed or got wrong It seems to me that the only issues can occur when you are in auto mode and turn on the locker, but I’ll defer to anyone who has actually tried that or can point to better info there shouldn’t be any drivetrain incompatibilities in terms of gear ratio. I cannot, however, remember if the ARB requires an open carrier. Many (All?) auto lockers require open carriers to drop into.

Last summer project Subwoofer shelf. It keeps my ugly emergency gear out of the way and hidden, and it leaves 2/3 of the trunk to sleep in or maximize space. I didn’t create any more space obviously, but I prefer this layout for the things I usually use my R50 for. Currently, the shelf is screwed into the floor in the two places it rests on sheet metal, and then the subwoofer is supported by 2x4’s on 3 sides, and 2 screws into the shelving in the rear. It needs some straps/ropes from the subwoofer to the floor in order to be complete, in my opinion.

Added some retrofit headlights! These are a Toyota DIY H4 kit from bxbuilt.com B3 bi-LED projectors with V2 Flat shrouds. I added halos to the kit, and have them wired for DRL duty, but they’re also switchback compatible, so I have them wired to the turn signals, and they function perfectly as hazards and turn signals. Andrew, the owner of BX Built, was super helpful along the way and answered all my messages about the headlights. He’s very easily reached on his Instagram account @bx_built. If you hit him up about headlights, be sure to tell him Tyler / @thewhitepathfinder sent ya! You’ve probably also recently seen these exact headlights (minus the halos) on @herotrooper ‘s R50. He was the inspiration for this mod! More photos to come, as well as a YouTube video!

That cylinder (which appears to be coated in plenty of oil) in the center-left of this picture is the oil cooler. It has 2 o rings that can be replaced and will often fix any leaks that the cooler has. It looks like this is at least one of the sources of your leak.

$1200 is a rip-off. you can easily replace the rear shocks yourself, it’ll take about 10-30 minutes depending on rust (it’s 4 bolts total). The alignment shop who handled my front lift springs handled the install AND alignment for somewhere between 200-300. Struts cost about $40-80 per side if I remember correct. if he’s doing all the work for you, maybe 400-500 if he lets you source your own parts. A little more if he has to buy and source the parts you don’t have to buy tires at the same tome, but you will have to get the front realigned if he replaces your front struts (shocks). whether you decide to lift it or not, the labor should cost the same, and I would recommend buying and providing the parts yourself. Alignment will be more difficult if you lift it, so getting camber bolts (14mm camber bolts) is a good idea.

5.5 inches times 25.4mm/inch = 139.7mm. It’s the same thing, they’ll fit. 15x8 -19mm is 3.75 backspace. 15x8 -38 is 3.0 backspacing

Junkyard bump stops, or consider Old Man Emu rear springs, which will handle load well while only lifting the vehicle a little (0.5-1”)

I searched “pathfinder lowering coils 4x4parts” and it was the 2nd result

These are what you’re looking for: https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981107-pathfinder-lowering-coils.html

thanks! the lokka has definitely opened up trails and obstacles for me, and made the tough ones simple.

More footage from a trail day yesterday, conquered some obstacles that I couldn’t before the lokka.

Wow. Same exact spot indeed.Thanks for the photos + advice. Replacement is sitting in the garage, just gotta work on some kind of extended link situation (and see if that creates a need for coil retainers) now!

Next time I’m at the ultra R50-populated JY I’ll try and check the CV shafts. If we could find enough “notched” axle shafts, perhaps we would be comfortable with deeming those the OEM axles? At the very least, it would seem the notched shaft + carved (not round) differential flanges is a good indicator of quality, as you and I have both had good success in Offroad/4x4/Front locker usage w/o spacers.