PathyDude17

I think I’m missing the logic of cutting down the spring.... if the bushing is wearing down, then it’s probably moving excessively, ie, something’s not tight. The 26” shocks that you’re currently using have been used for years on similar levels of rear lift with no known issues. Additionally, no matter what spring you put in the rear, your suspension will still travel and move the same as it always has, thus moving your shock in the same manner as before. The problem is with the shock- it’s bushings, or how it’s been attached. Just my $0.02

Not to jump the gun on the shocks and shock mount info, but one thing I already do know about the 33 185569's is that they're not suitable for pre facelift shock mounts unless you have alot of lift. I've personally had to reseat @micahfelker's 9448's (yes, NRC9448 springs with no coils cut), back after they drop out at full flex. The pre facelift shock mounts are close enough together that a 30" fully extended shock is just too long, whereas my 9449's stay seated at full flex (I have a 2003).

Dang that looks awesome, I like that alot

That’s how I poked holes in the slider with a Flathead... had it in the locked position and started pushing, but thanks for replying

2003 VQ35DE with Drive by Wire I took off my intake for regular maintenance, as well as changing spark plugs. To clear room, I disconnected the TPS sensor on the Throttle body from its harness. Last week i started putting stuff together, and the TPS harness won't go onto the TPS plug. I need insight on whether the harness is broken, damaged, or if my methods are inadequate. But first pictures, so that you all will have a better idea of what I'm talking about. This is the Harness: This is the plug on the TPS: Here's what I know so far: The springs (you can see their white/clear tops in the top section of the harness) are contacting the guides on the TPS (the two guides with the rectangle between them in the last picture). I cannot push the springs far enough out of the way to change this. Even after lubricating the springs and TPS plug, I can't get the springs to slide past the guide. This contact causes the sliding/locking mechanism on the backside of the harness to get pushed back when sliding the harness onto the TPS plug. Or, if you slide the locking mechanism all the way back, put the harness on the TPS plug, and then try and push the locking mechanism all the way forward, the TPS plug gets pushed off the harness. It was my initial assumption that the springs are supposed to slide past the guides, but I'm not super confident on that. So, lets say the springs are supposed to contact and push against the guides. If that's the case, then fine. I'll push harder, but I've already poked holes in backside of the sliding mechanism from pushing with a flathead screwdriver. If I take the springs out of the harness, it doesn't lock onto the TPS plug with any force other than the friction between the two surfaces. I can pull the harness off without touching locking/sliding mechanism on the backside of the harness. The harness appears to be in working shape and not damaged, nor do I recall any snapping noises when I pulled it off the TPS plug last week. When just inspecting the harness, if I push the locking mechanism all the way forward, it clicks into place, seeming to suggest that it works. Any insight is greatly appreciated, as my truck has now been sitting in the driveway for a week. I'd have to tow it to a shop or drive it to one with the TPS harness shoddily connected, and I'm not sure what a shop would do or tell me to do at this point.

Well, COVID 19 shut down my school for at least the next month, so I’ve been back in Idaho since Sunday. Already went ahead and made a trip to my favorite trail!

That looks like a blast! If you hop on Instagram and check out Notajeep4x4, they often have Xterra meet ups and rides on Rausch creek.

For organization, don’t ask random questions in other people’s build threads. That being said, here’s what you’re looking for:

the only real recovery point to plan on using on a trail would be a trailer hitch + d ring in the rear, the front needs a bumper + reinforcement

It looks pretty normal, I don’t doubt that he has legitimate Land Rover springs, whatever part number he got. There’s no front lift that will level Land Rover springs, let alone MD’s without a spacer. The HD’s are a definite step up in weight rating and will lift a higher height, about 1.25-1.5” according to rugged rocks. Even on AC’s and 9449’s I have about 1-1.25” of rake. See post #167 for a picture of freshly installed HD’s with Land Rover springs:

He’s got MD’s not HD’s. Read post #7

I see you’ve got a d-ring in your driver side tow hook: just so you’re aware, there’s a moderate consensus that you shouldn’t recover a vehicle or be recovered using those front tow hooks, they’re really not designed with that scenario in mind. They seem to be totally ok for simple towing, but if a vehicle is really stuck or hung up, they’ve been known to fail:

This picture is screen saver quality

Looking good! I can’t wait to get back to Idaho!

15x8’s with 3.75 backspacing don’t rub my calipers at all.

I think @micahfelker is 4.0 BS on that exact tire size. That being said, most people still go for 3.75 since it’s an easy enough spec to find on 16” or 15” rims. (8” wide with -19 mm offset).

3.75 Backspace is the magic number if you want guaranteed fitment for any tire larger than 31” tall. If it’s 31” or less, backspacing doesn’t matter much

Golden Hour

Wow, we have everything the same except rims and maybe shocks! Keep it up, I love seeing your vehicle on IG too! The red is awesome!

There are 3 numbers on a tire size. 265 could describe any number of different tires, though I’m assuming you meant one of the two sizes in 15” rims. heres a good resource: https://tiresize.com/chart/ and wheel specs as they relate to R50’s:

I had lift spacers and hated them, swapped to springs after only a few months. They're not an awesome option for legitimate off roading. Do some research on them, or give this video a shot:

That length would suit the Pre facelift (96-99) well (I'm assuming the shock mount change happened the same year as the facelift), as their shock mounts are closer together than the later models. I've personally had to reseat a coil for @micahfelker when he drops one at full flex, the 29" 331885569's are a little too long for his application.

@hawairish and @TowndawgR50 I don’t think you could’ve picked a better first vehicle to show off your product on. It looks killer Alex!

Works for me on safari and chrome (mobile/laptop), but ive noticed mobile can have issues if I'm using the "Dark" theme setting