PathyDude17

Besides having to change your username to Unibodiez, probably not. Most of the 01 VQ issues (mainly power valve screws and IACV gasket) happen at 100k-200k mile range. You’ll want to check the oil regularly in case it burns some or if it springs a leak- oil cooler, valve covers, rear main seal are some of the top culprits. Keep premium fuel in it. These are coil on plug engines as well, but the coil packs tend to stay in good shape for over 150k +. It’s a good idea to keep fresh fluid in the tranny, they don’t take well to abuse. these vehicles don’t typically have overheating issues. Just take it easy. If it’s been somewhat regularly run and maintained, it should be a smooth journey home. I’m sure other people will have something to add to the aforementioned.

They’re not popular at all. Most people want higher lift and load capacity

Something like OME 2922 might do, it’s basically just a load spring that will provide a little lift over true stock height. Link: https://www.desertrat.com/i-23326228-old-man-emu-by-arb-2922-coil-spring.html

Yes. They have no idea what they’re talking about. Most 4x4 shops just do Jeep and Toyota stuff, and will be clueless on what works with R50’s.

I’ve had 15x8 -19mm 3.75 backspace wheels for over 2 years. No problems. In fact, without that extreme of a backspacing, my wheels would rub the calipers, as later model year R50’s have bigger front brakes. Also, you need to do some research on backspacing math- offset and backspacing are different measurements, and their relationship varies with wheel width. Any number of YouTube videos can explain how to calculate it. also, tiresize.com has a backspacing calculator, which is handy for checking math. Use the “offset converter” in this link: https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/ There’s a short math explanation here along with how it applies to R50’s :

Oh boy. I'll chime in on a runaway thread, against my better judgement When I first installed my spacer lift w/o manual hubs, my (presumably) OEM CV axles split almost immediately at the inner boots, I believe it was the inners first then eventually the outers got gnarly too. From what I gather, most boots split on a fresh lift, especially if the axles are old. On my 03 SE w/ the manual shift t case, I have had my current set of axles for about 1.5 years. I just pulled some junkyard axles in hopes they were OEM. At least one of them isn't (my driver side axle, relevant info later). These boots likely have tens, if not hundreds of thousands of miles on them. They were pulled off a stock R50 w/o manual hubs. The boots have experienced severe ranges of temperatures while on my vehicle, everything from -20 *F to 100 *F. I put them on several months after installing AC springs. I think the axles went on in July of 2019, and the AC springs in April of 2019. The entire time I have had those 07/19 axles on, I have had manual hubs. I still inevitably have put some typical road miles on them with hubs locked at speeds of up to 70mph, but mostly its only dirt miles with 4WD usage. These axles have seen approximately 20,000 miles of on pavement driving w/ hubs unlocked. They have endured two winters that saw minor 4WD usage (~10-20 miles of 4WD per winter season?), and many camping trips and trail outings that lead to locked hubs, 4WD, and full (measly) travel of the front suspension. These miles likely are in excess of 300 miles. My most recent trip was over 100 dirt/4WD miles. I have enough videos on youtube to indicate what kind of stresses my axles experience. I've had a lokka since May of 2020, and probably half of my wheeling/wintering/4WDing has been done with this lokka installed. Whether this has a discernable or predictable affect on wear is up to speculation. After all that, looking today, my driver side (the not OEM axle) outer boot is greasy (light film of grease, but not flinging grease everywhere), with every other boot on the vehicle being bone dry. Some basic math: The ~300 toughest miles my axles have experienced, spread across 18 months, has had not so nearly as bad a result as your moderate/light usage (though probably higher than 300 miles) across a shorter time span. This is comparable, as we are on identical front suspension (arguably you have the advantage with the weight of your front bumper). So there's at least two different axles that can put up with the AC lift + the upper limits of what my R50 can safely handle off road. I would speculate the same would be true of your situation. Thanks for listening to that lengthy anecdote. Take this for what it is. Maybe you'll just have to go up to the Rockfords, but I'm not fully convinced that your experience is totally normal.

The OME struts are documented as slightly having longer travel than some/most/all stock struts. The stock strut specs changes from brand to brand and even from model year to model year, meaning that not all of the OEM struts have the same exact travel. If you’re really concerned, some googling of part numbers and catalogues can easily confirm or deny this for your specific application. Different valving/loading characteristics of struts aside, more travel would generally lead to less top out. Whether this is a noticeable decrease in top out remains to be seen, as no one has done a side by side comparison. What I can say-they’ll fit, and it will likely be the nicest riding AC front coil setup you can get.

do you have any links or retailer info on the sleeves? For pre-facelift owners who can’t swap bolt size on the lower mount (unlike post facelift owners who can on the upper mount), it would be nice to have a verified part number, as the bushing/bolt fitment is really the number one issue with fitting bilsteins to these vehicles, and I don’t usually have a good answer when prefacelift owners ask me about this. Thanks, and glad to see you got the issue settled.

9447 vs 9449 is a personal preference, check out their specs here: http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html The 9449 is just 50lbs/inch stiffer for carrying more weight. MOST people use stock replacement struts (ie, anything you can find on rockauto), with the OME being the only true aftermarket struts available. If you really want to take a deep dive into struts, you could research some of the other Australian companies that make struts with their lift kits, and see if you could coerce them to ship over here. I’ve yet to see that done. Top out varies from ride to ride. On My AC/KYB front setup, I don’t have any complaints (it is certainly stiffer than the OME coils though) and many of my friends who have done the same also like this setup, but I know other people who are not as satisfied. If you’re not 100% set on them, consider a dobinson or OME 2928 front setup, those are great coils, and if they’re too short for you you can pretty safely add a 1” spacer after they’ve settled. Correct on the 33-185552. You need to swap one of the bushings, or (at your own risk of damage to the bushing) use washers and clamp it down so tight it doesn’t move. The obvious, better choice, is to locate a new bushing. I’m not sure where one does that. On facelift R50’s, you can swap the bolt on the upper mount, I’m unsure of the same option is available to you on the lower mount. compressinng the AC coils without a professional spring compressor is usuallly sketchy, I’ve yet to see anyone try the AC coils with that specific tool, though I’d be optimistic about it working. That tool has been used very successfully to compress OME coils. Hope that helps!

If you find yourself needing to remove the driveshaft, here’s the method I picked up from @TowndawgR50 and use on junkyard jobs as well as installing my lokka: Lock up the drivetrain (Park, T-case in 4LO). Use the “box” end of a wrench on the side of the flange that you can get it on, then I usually loop a wrench into the pronged end of the first wrench. This, of course, effectively doubles the torque you can put on the bolt head. if you can spin the head of the bolt, the nut on the backside will actually catch against the u joint and hold the nut in place. As long as you can produce enough torque to break it loose, you’ll be able it loose and out worry free. Put the transfer case in neutral (on level ground or with the parking break on.... lol) and spin the shaft to expose the next nut conveniently. it sure beat me up trying to take off my first one off (couldn’t get the transfer in neutral, it was a junkyard job- you have to stick a wrench through the u joint and get it to bottom out on something), but now it’s an pretty straightforward job. Glad you got the front end figured out!

If they truly did buy a 2004, at least it won’t have the ECU issue. Drive by wire, babyyyyy. Not sure if that’s truly a step up, but that system does avoid the IACV/ECU disaster.

@RainGoat thanks for the screen capture on that. The video poster is looking more the problem now. If Ironman did eventually offer to let him return the coils, then I suppose that settles that, and we’ll never get to the bottom of what the heck that was about Here’s the other example of IM4x4 springs that I’ve seen, which appear to be working properly. 33’s with a 1” strut spacer and IM4x4 front springs. It looks visually far better than what that QX4 was getting:

I mean, this forum built up our Land Rover specs on ground to fender height measurements..... its not uncommon. He had to add the 1.5” spacer with those tires to make it driveable. The fender gap on that vehicle is almost nothing even after the spacer. The 1.5” spacer should add ~2” of lift, which means about 3.5” of lift total. There are plenty of AC and 1” spacer setups on Facebook (imagine that) to examine, and his axle angles aren’t anything near as severe as what those setups look like. Those things should look maxed, and there would be plenty of room for the tires. Even looking at how close the coils are together inside the strut, it just looks wrong. To sum it all up, I can’t say I’d put Ironman at the top of my list for R50 springs

Not sure The video uploaded provided them with before and after measurements from fender to ground, factored in tire size, and they wouldn’t budge. Ironman claimed they needed before and after fender to hub (not ground) measurements. it is very clear that the coils are netting him no lift. Theres another R50 on Instagram the has a 1” (not 1.5”) spacer, Ironman coils, and 33’s (not 32’s) and clearly has more fender gap.

No, but everyone whose installed them thats talked to me about it ( ~ 3 people?) like them. They’re a reputable brand, bigger in the Toyota world.

Finally got a chance to watch this recent video on the Ironman coils, props to the channel for getting out their experience on these coils. Video It's pretty apparent that the coils aren't providing him any lift. Defective or not is a little hard to say, since we don't have many community members using them. Sounds like he can't get a replacement from Ironman4x4, which is a bummer. It seems like OME and Dobinson's would be better, less risky options for coils that give decent lift height and ride performance.

Coils only, get OEM units if you’re gonna replace them, or chance some EBay ones

Yup, this popped up on Facebook two days ago I think. a Russian member is installing that unit- it just came out and apparently has a few kinks (although some of the information gets lost in translation, it was hard to understand what he was getting at.) the company (IZH-Techno) looks pretty legit. They have a great website, nice Instagram page and even a well recurved youtube channel. This is supposed to be made precisely for our rears- 2 pinion open diffs with 33 spline axle shafts. 2 US owners (one whose on here + Dan) have purchased it so far

Perfect. ya, I’ve had it in for about 8 months now. It’s a good unit, I’d definitely pick it over an open rear. Snow/ice driving in 2WD can be a little squirrelly with both wheels pushing forward all the time. The few times I’ve been able to get Offroad since, I try and add some left foot brake and sometimes I can keep both wheels pulling in the rear. It’s nice to have. But here’s the thing: it doesn’t hold a candle to my front lokka. Having the front unit pull and always doing 50% or more of the workload is awesome, especially in rutty uphill situations where the front is most likely to break free (IFS, weight leaning back, etc). With the front maintaining traction like that, it makes it easier to keep the rear from breaking loose, which might actually make the LSD unit look like it’s over performing for me. Obviously, a super packed LSD would be better than what I have, but I’d still put the lokka ahead of any other gear/locker mod available to me.

Jeep coils are an outdated option that used to be used in the rear (with an adapter) to complement a subframe drop. Not worth your time compared to LR coils or other options. There are about 6 spring options for the front suspension: Dobinson, Ironman 4x4, OME, AC, TJM, and King springs. All the research that I've amassed on those coils can be found here with links in the description as well (AC lifts the highest): Living in Florida would be nice. Shipping to Idaho was about 70-80 dollars USD, which is insane. From what I remember, they really screw people over on shipping to Canada. I think Dobinsons can be found in Canada - They for sure won't lift as high and will (probably) sag more under weight compared to AC. But, its worth noting that the spring rate and ride quality of AC coils keeps a fair amount of people away from them, making OME an equally popular front spring. From what I can tell, the Ironman 4x4 and Dobinson springs will probably perform similar to OME. I would generally opt for a land rover option in the rear (lots of info readily available on those). If you go with a land rover spring option, the vehicle will have a rake of 1-2" depending on your specific spring choices. More info on Land rover springs (rear R50 application only):

Bummer on the front- I had mine out and working on snowy/slushy/wet highways and surface streets today and was fairly happy. Ya, I remember discussing this with you...... wonder if that shop is still burned to the ground. It really seems like their company structure is outdated. Replying to few to none customer enquiries (I'm one for two on getting replies) is a bad idea. Having a policy of only emailing you when your order ships (but not updating on lead times etc) is also bad. Roaming Facebook groups, there are people who go 2-3 months from order to arrival. In march, I got in on a big batch of new orders, and received mine the week I ordered it, and that same week other people who had been waiting for two months finally got theirs. To be fair (and a little anecdotal), most of the complaints I come across are based around lead times, as opposed to anything that's wrong with the product. I definitely agree they should work on their customer service. Ya, would be a real bummer if they put it out for "4 pinion" open 33 spline rears...... @ lowrangeoffroad / Powertrax

Hey guys, just thought I’d post this for those interested in keeping tabs on this situation. I was perusing Lokka’s website and noticed that they now list a rear Lokka for the R50 generation, see the screen grab below or check it out for yourself at lokka.com Notice: there’s no price listed, and if you click on “buy now” it’s a broken link. It used to be that Lokka would simply state they don’t make a rear application Lokka. This, to me, indicates a rear option is coming to market. Additionally, the exact same is true if you look for 00-01 frontiers and 00-02 Xterra’s (the only other Nissans that direct fit our 33 spline rear end). No price listed, and the “buy now” button is a broken link. If I’m understanding the prior research of differentials as laid out by @hawairish, this means we will soon have a multitude of options for drop in direct fitment rear mechanical lockers on 33 spline axle shafts. This is entirely new, and has not existed for R50’s at any point in the past. Even if you have an LSD, you just need an open diff from one of three different Nissans. This is all subjective to any more information or fitment requirements that Lokka supplies in the future, or anything that I may have mispoke about in this post of course. The other great deal is price- lokka’s are generally much cheaper than any of our other rear locker options, although with some performance setbacks. But if there’s any of you who are a few beers and a Friday night away from welding your rear diff, I figured you might want to know about this I suspect this is in part a response to the insane demand that we have put on lokka for their front units. By March, they had mentioned to me in an email that they had already gone through a supply that would usually last them two years. They have been behind all year and continue to have slow lead times even now (likely due to demand). Good job us! feel free to correct this information or add to it

Little trip recap: went camping with @micahfelker and a pretty nice taco. About a 180 mile round trip, with some extra miles put on in order to link up with Micah. Had to use my 3 gallon spare fuel to make it (211 miles total). Super cool canyon with a hot springs nestled along the river. Day and a half of just hanging out in the area and a total of two nights camping. The only tricky part was the road out of the canyon- going up it in the snow, I was happy to have the lokka + LSD combo. A little left foot brake kept all 4 tires in traction and made for a safe ascent. heres the video for those interested: