ahardb0dy Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 carpet all vacuumed and ready to install, maybe Saturday, going to take pics when the truck is almost stripped out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 You guys have way more patience than me, I can do most things including electrical, but sometimes small parts like that drive me crazy. I did wish my drivers lock cylinder worked, hate unlocking from the pass side all the time lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 send it over I'll fix it for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 Going outside to gut the interior, will take before and after pics, should be able to see a difference, I'll be back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 About to buy a bunch of washers and liquid polyurethane to make some front shock spacers. Front shocks keep on topping out on the wd21 after 1" balljoint spacers and low pro bump stops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 You guys have way more patience than me, I can do most things including electrical, but sometimes small parts like that drive me crazy. I did wish my drivers lock cylinder worked, hate unlocking from the pass side all the time lol. Sure its not just one of the plastic pieces that broke? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 (edited) Replacing the carpet is going alittle slower than I expected, had some un forseen issues come up as well as getting side tracked a couple times, First time was with the alarm brain under the seat that I decided to remove as I don't use the alarm anyway, than following the wires up behind the fuse box which required dropping the plastic panel under the steering column, and the lower steering colum trim under the steering wheel, and finally removing the 2 bolts that hold the steering column up to make room for the alarm harness plugs to fit through, all back together now, Now on to the other un for seen issue, more on that later, taking plenty of pictures too ! I will say the harness for the factory alarm is pretty cool the way they did it, basically you un plug some connectors, than the male end of the alarm harness plugs into where you just un plugged the connector (female side) and the other end of the plug (male) goes into another plug (female)on the alarm harness, I just had to eliminate 3 wires that they used scotch lok connectors to tie into existing wires, one was in the main harness near the remote fuel lever ( no idea what the wire is they tapped into) the other two were, one wire for the horn and I think one wire for the parking lights possibly so they would flash, had to unscrew one ground wires, and done, harness removed, put back to pre-alarm state, alarm brain and bracket removed, more room under the seat, less holes through the carpet, Good to go, and the truck still starts too !! BONUS ~!!! LOL Also one harness I removed that I thought didn't go anywhere I realized had to go back in as it is the harness for the switches in the center console !! with the two plugs one for the rear window and one for the adjustable shocks , well at least I didn't cut the harness thinking it was un used !!! It's back in now. Ok going back out just wanted to update and sit in the AC for a few and get something cold to drink, I'll be back when I'm done or when I can't do anymore stay tuned.... Edited September 29, 2013 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 Sure its not just one of the plastic pieces that broke? Yep, the lock cylinder won't even turn. I took the panel off and all the pieces are there and nothing is broken. I think it is just seized. Been soaking it with PB for ages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 Was thinking about what you said the other day, and I wouldn't even need the lock cylinder, just a copy of the key, than I could re-key you a new cylinder, Of course you could have it done where you live too, but if You ever want it done would be more than happy to do it for you. Not like I'm going to drive up to Ontario to steal your PF !! But you do have that nice ARB bumper..... LOL Seriously, if you want it done let me know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 (edited) finished replacing my carpet, pics are in garage section Edited September 29, 2013 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 Fixed 2 problems... horn didn't work and my tire carrier wouldn't latch 1. Took steering wheel off to gain access to the 'brushes' that make the connection to the back of hte steering wheel. These are spring-loaded copper or brass rods that had worn down to the point where they did not make good contact anymore (there are 3, 2 for he cruise control and 1 for the horn). I pondered extending the existing rods by brazing a piece on or reshaping them with a hammer but I decided on a much simpler solution. I removed the back plate that allowed me to drop the roda and springs out of the housing (that also holds the wiper and headlight levers). Turns out that the holes are just slightly bigger than 3/16" and the rods have a bit of a flair on them at the spring end. About halfway through the plastic, the holes narrow to just under 3/16" which gives a lip to retain the rods so the springs don't shoot them out in your face when you remove the steering wheel (ok, they aren't THAT strong). I took a 13/64" drill and ran it into the holes from the back and continued past the 'lip' for another 3/16" or so in depth. This gave the rods further room to travel to make contact with the back of the steering wheel. Put it all back together and all three functions work fine. 2. Took the latch mechanism off the tire carrier, pulled the retaining pin and slid the pivot rod (extension of the handle) out from the mechanism. Dropped out the latches, washers, spacers and springs, keeping track of how it went together. I used some sandpaper to clean the part of the handle that goes through the spacers and holds all the parts in place. I generally cleaned all the crap out of the remaining parts and smeared everything with a good lithium grease. Put it all back together and it works like new. The latches don't hangup, it's not noisy, it closes and locks with minimal pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 good fixes, fot the steering wheel contact ring problem on mine I cut 3 spacers out of copper tubing, removed the contact ring and put a spacer in each hole, than put the contact ring back on, horn and cruise works perfect now. I have a thread on this somewhere I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 I have had 2 High mileage pathfinders before this one and have never had that steering wheel problem. I guess you guys just turn a lot LOL. ahardbody, I just might take you up on that lock offer, might see what a local place says first, but rather throw a member a few bucks anyway. I know I have a third key around somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 No problem, all I need to do is pick up another lock cylinder that has the metal groove in it for the lock plastic thing to sit in, I guess the non unlocking from the outside trucks used adifferent lock cylinder. I'll do it for free just cover the shipping, how much could it cost to mail a key and a lock cylinder anyway, LOL Let me know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 I haven't even seen my baby in over a month. Having withdrawals... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted October 1, 2013 Share Posted October 1, 2013 good fixes, fot the steering wheel contact ring problem on mine I cut 3 spacers out of copper tubing, removed the contact ring and put a spacer in each hole, than put the contact ring back on, horn and cruise works perfect now. I have a thread on this somewhere I think. I wasn't sure how to take the rings out so I went with the thing that had visable screws. lol Good to know the other solution for when my contacts wear down to the point that I have no room left in the plastic to drill deeper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted October 1, 2013 Share Posted October 1, 2013 Busy day today! Truck now has four matching 255/65R16 Hankook Dnyapro ATM's on it. Had two before, but some older Yokohoma's that were no bueno and tread separating from them. Changed the oil, Mobil 1 Syn High Mileage 5W-30 w/ Mobil 1 oil filter. This setup has been working out wonderful for the past 10k miles. Getting better mileage with it since. Drain and filled the transmission. Poured in a bottle of LubeGuard Red. Then used Castrol Transmax Fluid for Nissan's. Finally, bottle of Techron Fuel System Cleaner, good stuff with the PEA. Then filled up with 93 oct Chevron to top it off. That's it for now. Soon will the the Timing Belt kit from Courtesy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 1, 2013 Share Posted October 1, 2013 (edited) Good choices! √ I don't think your VG33E will receive any benefit from anything higher than 89 octane though. It specifies 87; it's reasonable that 89 might be beneficial if the engine can advance timing far enough, but 91/93 would be a stretch. I would also tend to run a fuel system cleaner in the tank immediately prior to changing the oil because some of the cleaner can get into the oil through fuel dilution. An admittedly very small amount, yes, but it can be prevented. I doubt it will cause any issues either way otherwise it'd be stated on the bottle's instructions, but I like to err on the side of caution. You know for next time. Edited October 1, 2013 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 Put in the 93. Because down here, the 93 is the only one that truly gets injected with Techron at the distribution point at the port. The 87 gets about 1/4 as much. I know this, because I calibrate the meters that move the additives and fuels at the port. *But I did not say this, cannot be held accountable in court of law. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 I wasn't sure how to take the rings out so I went with the thing that had visable screws. lol Good to know the other solution for when my contacts wear down to the point that I have no room left in the plastic to drill deeper. see my thread here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35469-steering-wheel-contact-ring-spacers/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 today I installed my new Headlamp switch I got from Rob in my Sentra, and pulled the steering wheel in the PF to straighten it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Bought a new gas tank and new bolts to hold it up with... the fun part will be extracting the three bolts that snapped off when I tried to remove them. At least the tank won't be in my way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Fixed it..... then broke it again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Bought a new gas tank and new bolts to hold it up with... the fun part will be extracting the three bolts that snapped off when I tried to remove them. At least the tank won't be in my way!Which bolts broke? I only broke one but used and impact to slowly go at it. If thr rear bolts broke you could probably cut the captive nuts off and use regular nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 If thr rear bolts broke you could probably cut the captive nuts off and use regular nuts. That's exactly what I did on 4 bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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