Simon Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 By the way, my post above was intended to be entirely sarcastic Thank jeebus! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 Did you properly oil the lifters and prime the oil pump when assembleing the engine?Did you use a oil with a high amount of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate(zddp) in it?These could be your problems and not the oil it self. Hehe, yeah, as I said above, the problem was not the oil. The lifters were just too big (defective parts). Haven't solved the valve problem yet. I figured this was a good thread for posting random nonsense! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 Fair enough, but lets slow down on the random nonsense now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 I run Valvoline Max Life, no reason wasting money on synthetic on an old high mile engine in my opinion. Every older engine I have ever dealt with that got switched to a full synthetic started blowing oil out everywhere. With all the addative crap they throw in oils, they are all a synthetic blend anyway. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 (edited) Well, that is the old tale of switching to synthetics. Use it on a old engine, seals start leaking. When people ask me, I say if you have low mileage, go ahead and switch, but stay with your decision. Lots of miles, why bother? What has been working, has been working(aint broke, dont fix it mentality). Some think it will cure leaks. Umm, there is no such thing as a mechanic-in-a-can. Edited November 18, 2010 by 5523Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 Part of the problem is that without some controlled tests, or information about formulations etc (which are presumably all secret) all we end up with is a bunch of anecdotes, which, I think, have limited value. Of course, there's no problem with people posting their preferences etc, and maybe readers can glean something from the thread. Looking at the similar "filter wars" topic, one way that actual knowledge was gained was by people cutting open filters and having a look inside. That information allows you to make reasonable decisions on what kind of filter you want to use. Ideally we'd find an analogous sort of "test" for oil. So maybe if people have links to comparative oil test etc. they could post those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 Hehe, yeah, as I said above, the problem was not the oil. The lifters were just too big (defective parts). Haven't solved the valve problem yet. I figured this was a good thread for posting random nonsense! Yeah,I didnt see your post,it was probly because I had to look Zinc up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 I use Royal Purple 10W40 or 5W30, depending on vehicle and conditions. Used Mobil1 exclusively (engine and differentials) for a while but it seemed to shear and thin very quickly. Spoke at length twice with the guys at RP (just call and ask for technical assistance) and they really knew their stuff. That gave me some confidence. Now run RP in the engine, diff and trannies with no smoke, noises, clatter, thinning/shearing etc. Tried their oil filters but, frankly, those don't seem to be any better/worse than stock and cost much more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerranoNZ Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 I used Quaker State, Valvoline, Motomaster, Amsoil, Mobil1, Castrol, and many others and NONE of them would stay in my old truck (RMS leak) and one of them caused it. I'm going to blame the oil, for sure. It's amazing the conclusions people will jump to when something goes wrong with their vehicle. Blaming oil companies for engines falling apart or being built incorrectly is a stretch. True, but sometimes things look to bad to be a coincidence Old work mate rebuilt his Subaru engine, put Magnatec oil in... Bottom end crapped out. Talked to a local race engine re builder who asked if he was running Magnatec. James said "How did you know?" Guy points to 7 Subaru engines on the ground waiting for rebuilds after running Magnatec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0nkeyprince Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 5w-30 mobil 1 all the way! 10w-30 makes my engine start up time 1-2 seconds slower on cold days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 BTW, if you want a "quick and dirty" impression (atrocious pun intended) idea of how your oil is doing, peer inside the oil filler hole. If you can fit a videoscope (can get some pretty cheap now, used via craigslist or ebay for under $100) or a small angle mirror in, you'll be able to see the cams and some of what's underneath the valve cover. Not a great view but it will at least give you some sense of how things are going. Also a useful trick when evaluating used cars. Doing that would have saved me a fortune once... Ugh... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewt6447 Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 I run whatever crap comes out of the tank at work (amsoil I think), with whatever filters we happen to have. I pretty much don't check it between the random oil changes I do when I think it's done enough k's (we pay diesel mileage tax here so the odometer is broken...) It's done around 300k's and still sweet as. You can't kill a Nissan diesel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 I run Valvoline or Castrol full synthetic 0w30 and Purolator PureOne Filters. I change the filter every 3k, and the oil every 6k. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 (edited) wait 0W30? i run 10W40. with a fram grippy topped oil filter. changed every three months or 3k miles (dont drive much...) Edited December 8, 2010 by Kyle94 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 Did you properly oil the lifters and prime the oil pump when assembleing the engine?Did you use a oil with a high amount of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate(zddp) in it?These could be your problems and not the oil it self. x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 wait 0W30? i run 10W40. with a fram grippy topped oil filter. changed every three months or 3k miles (dont drive much...) Yep. 0w30. Its not cheap, but in the winter it starts/runs/drives with much less protest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 never heard of that one... cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 never heard of that one... cool Way before our time, back when you had to change types of oil every season because they were all straight grades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr900boy Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 I just put in Amsoil 10w40 last night and let me tell you, my rig seems to run smoother and definitely quieter. I was running Amsoil 0w30 but after reading many of your posts, I’ve come to realize that 10w40 would be a better choice. The best part is this oil comes has a high ZINC formula which according to most of you is important. I have a very small leak coming from the oil pan so I hope this will rectify or at least slow down the process. I will keep you guys updated. If some of you guys are on the fence about switching over to this weight, I would highly recommend it. 10w40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Hell, I've ran pennzoil 20-20 which is a 20 weight I guess and Accel straight 30... its been in lawn mowers and a tractor but theres still uses for straight weight oils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdy99 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Mobil 1 5w30 and K&N oil filter. 320 000 and still humming along! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehuntersam Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Napa's 10w30 and 5w30 (valvoline) and a little marvel mystery oil is all I put in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves94XE Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 everyone has there opinion on oil, i use valvoline max 5w30 with no problems. the most important thing though, is keep it changed regularly. if you keep it changed with a quality grade oil and when your supposed to, you should have no problems.O and keeping plenty in it is important too lol 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathy415 Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Castrol GTX 5w-30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12A Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Castrol Magnatec 10w40 in the pathy with the Z24. will be running Mobil 1 5w30 with the FJ20ET in the pathy. the rotaries i own all get Penrite HPR40 which is a 25w70 oil. will not use valvoline oils in any of my cars as i dont like the colour or smell of the oil. may sound strange, but will not happen! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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