k9sar

*snicker*

excellent solution. Fix the scraping noise by covering it with a stereo upgrade! I have solved many a strange noise with my volume knob.

anyone wanna contribute to the "keep K9's hottub at 105 degrees" fund?

I have paypal'd Jim in the past to help through some rough times. He did not decline it. I'm sure any assistance would be welcome.

I got cash and permission. Now I just have to decide what upgrades to do.

each!

do a forym for little plastic thingie and you may find your answer. The locks are not completely disengaging when uyou unlock it. the force of the door slam triggers the power locks. Happening to me as well.

happy festivus

make sure you have both the throttle cable and the cruise control cable on your throttle body. Follwo the cruise control cable back to the booster and make sure the cable isn't frelled-up. Those are the simple things to check first. Is the cruise control fused? maybe check your fuse block too.

many ins companies use a 70% rule. If your estimate goes over 70% of the fair market value, it's totaled even though they are on the hook to cover the entire value. That 'cheapness' allows them to absorb variations in body shops and suppliments submitted (which always happens cause they lowball initially so they can pay the exact amount via suppliment rather than overpay initially). I argued mine and worked with the adjuster to 'leave some things off' so they wouldn't total it. When the work was done, the suppliment added all of those missing thigns back in and I got her fixed for just under market value (which was about 2K over what the 'totalled' line was). The other option (at least in PA) is to let them total it and pay you the fair market value. Then buy it from them for a hundred bucks or so, retitle it as a 'salvage' vehicke, and use the payout to fix it on your own or find a cheap shop to fix just the basics.

let's see... If you do your timing belt, go ahead and replace your water pump, thermostat and cam seals too. Theya re all right there and it is a bitch to get to so why tear it apart more than you have to? The broken stud issues were never OFFICIALLY a recall (I believe) or they had a 100k mike cutoff. Some folks bitched loud enough and got them covered. Call a few dealers and see if any are willing to play ball and cover the job. If you're gonna replace the alternator, consider a higher output one from a Quest. Junkyard item. Speedometer crapping out may be an electrical ground issue. Back in the olden days, they used to actually have a spedometer cable in cars. No more. It's all electronic and sometimes a short or bad ground can cause flakey results. Crunching while turning is an easy one. Grease your stops.

yea... I'm due to pull the rear wheels off and check my back brakes. Inspection inMarch but it's always nice to know that your rears grab when it's slick out. I'll look while I'm there.

was not implying that you would even consider it. was also amazed at my buddy's level of stupidity. personally, I like oil leaks. Keep it topped off and you extend the time between oil changes cause you're always adding fresh. hehehehe

I know someone who poured a container of radiator stop-leak into their oil in hopes of stopping the oil leaks. need I say more? DON'T DO THAT!

*snicker* Pezzy ... a very light ass end

could be your cam seals. If you pull the t-belt cover, you can tell fairly easily. The oil from there runs down and eventually drips out the bottom of the shield by the crank pulley. As for the pressure gauge, make sure you get one that matched the threads but, yea, I believe you just install it on the block above the starter where the sensor is.

if yer gonna swap, do maintenance ont he replacement before pulling the old one. timing belt, water pump, cam seals, t-stat, head studs, whatever. Much easier on the bench than in the truck.

Oprah?

dude... he was spelling it for you canadians... 'frount' 'eh? next you'll be making fun of all his bushes being shot

I dropped the front diff and the cross member that were in the way, undid the mount bolts and hiked the beast up as far as I could flex it without thinking I was gonna do serious damage.

I have a 95 and have not noticed any sizeable rust spots on my frame. Guess I'll have to take a look sometime.

I have a 95 but can assure you that exhaust creaking during heatup and cooldown is fairly normal in all vehicles especially if they have attached heat shields which expand/contract at a different rate than the exhaust that they are welded onto. It could be that the 03's are noisier due to the configuration but I would not know. Perhaps some of the other forum members with the newer pathys can chime in as well. and welcome to the boards

once you remove the rad and the fan, you should have the clearance to slide the engine forward and pitch the nose up in order to seperate from the tranny. Beware, the bolts at the top of the tranny are a bitch to get to w/o extensions and u-joints on your socket. Personally, I would NOT recommend pulling the engine. If it's a bearing problem, you can get at them from under. To get your pan out, you might need to lift the engine a little or remove one cross member but that's much easier than disconnecting everything and yanking the whole engine

I couldn't find mine... then I checked my old email account that I stopped using due to tons of spam... there it was!

well... you have a few POHO pages to review