k9sar

discs all around!!!! and lsd. I guess I qualify

lifters would normally tick when you first started then, as oil circulated, would quiet down. If you are on teh hairy edge of where your timing should be, you can certainly get a knock under load. You might consider a half degree adjustment toward TDC and see if that clears teh knock without sacraficing power.

everyone chip in a few dollars to buy one and I'll do the research.

adjusters are definately destroyed. sheesh! what does the othe end of that bolt look like? Did you snap the adjustment bolts or rip them through the frame?

depends on where it was. In my old honda, I mounted a tiny rocker switch in the glove box (which could also be locked). There was evidence that thre had been an attenpt to steal my car but the kill switch wouldn't allow the fuel pump to run. hmm... I guess I should have told the new owner about the switch when I sold them the car.

I'll give you fifty bucks for the chevy and take it off your hands

poor man's solution is a piece of 1/4 inch airline from an aquarium or a length of 1/2 vinyl tubing. One end in your ear and the other to probe around the engine. Works pretty good and is much cheaper. As for the posession... a good chicken-bone cross and some high quality dark rum works wonders.

It is my belief that there is no 'impact sensor' like you would think (like an airbag trigger in the bumper). It was my impression that the unit under the seat actually had a motion sensor device that would trigger the alarm if the truck got rocked, towed, run into, etc. I typically leave mine Impact Off ever since a bolt of lightning struck the tree next to my house and the jolt set off my alarm. No way in hell I was going out to do anything about it at that point.

sounds like a synch problem... now the question is "why?" How many miles do you have on that clutch and throw-out bearing? It's an 01 so that shouldn't be the problem unless you've pushed a lot of stop/go miles on her.

my guess (but not my hope) is that you'll get all these mods done and get torn up by a semi on your first test drive. Well, that'd be my luck anyway.

obvious answer is "check your oil level" Could also be a bad connection on your pressure sensor

and I watched from the warm dry comfort of my pathy (with auto hubs) as vengeful went out in the pouring cold rain to lock his hubs before we went out on the trails.

my connection:

4 doors rule!

true.

but the point is to try to do it the more difficult way (2WD) and still be able to get out if it doesn't work. I had no doubt that 4WD would work but where's the fun in that?

seems pretty good today. yesterday afternoon was painful

ok... I'm not gonna be a prick I prefer the automatic ones. Just recently on an offroad weekend, I was playing in 2wd in a mudhole and couldn't quite push it out the other side. Threw my little lever for 4H and chugged right out. I never had to get out in the rain and mud to lock my hubs. a side note... I went back later that day and conquered the same mudhole in 2WD just because I was pissed that I didn't make it the first time. Damn train ain't gonna get the best of me!

The pathys at my local u-pull-it can hardly be recognized as pathys. nice find!

the centerlink is diferent too. Personally, I'd compare each part as I go and when I hit a common point (may be at the tie-rods), stop the swap. It's really difficult to tell from diagrams what the differences are but the part numbers differ so there must be something about it.

hmmm... you're absolutely right. Looks nothing like mine (though mine's a 95) My parts reference lists the same item (idler arm) interchangeable from 87 thru 95. Sorry.. can't help ya.

they did make a change with the 92 pathys. Personally, I'd go with the beefier setup as long as where it eventually connects to your existing rig matches in size.

it's should only be a ball joint where it connects to the centerlink (see number 4)

that would be bad. so, let's stop all this useless a$$hattery before we all get a whoopin'