k9sar

I also see no way that the crankshaft pully can squeal except for a belt squeeling on it (and you don't replace the pully to fix it) Perhaps they meant the tensioner pulley. Perhaps they're just assholes.

wow... that blows. I had to fight with my adjuster to get mine to NOT be totalled when I killed the jeep. In PA, a driver is required to have insurance. If they don't, they're facing fines and jail time. You can also file a lawsuit to recover your losses. You may never collect but you'll at least ruin them.

tighten the little bastard up anyway. If it's the hose I'm thinking of (about 4 inches long), it's notorious for leaking when it's cold and sealing when the engine warms up. Tough to find a fuel leak since it evaps so well. The fun part... when it's leaking, it's dumping fuel on top of your engine and could potentially warm your vehicle up quickly.

do a web search for discount nissan parts and browse a few links. Rockauto, partznet, alloemautoparts, etc. all have similar listings.

if you don't have one, try taking a length of 1/2 inch tubing and, while holding one end in your ear, probe the engine with the other. Works almost as well and can help isloate where noises come from. As for engine diagram, see here 1995 pathfinder factory service manual suppliment

possibly melted the cat innerds if you're running so hot. Could be a back-pressure thing.

not sure on the 92's but I believe you should shift to 4H, not 2H. I have auto hubs and the process is to shift FROM 2H into 4H and go.

not mine. Even with the oil filter out and everything else on the fender-well that was in the way having been removed, there was still no room to rotate or even try to squeeze it through. Once I took the shield off the solenoid, I could move it around but it still wouldn't fit through the available openings. I'm thinking that there are some differences in years. I have only heard of significant problems with the 94's and 95's during removal

thought you already had the 95 pathy one

been there, done that. took mine apart and took it out half through the front past the centerlink and the other half up past the oil filter (which I had to remove). PITA!!!

she's gone. Reverse is the first to go since it operates at a higher fluid pressure than the fwd gears. Had mine rebuilt at 90K miles.

heheh.. let me guess... you're a gambler and your avatar is you at the craps table, right? *snicker*

not saying a word *snicker*

threw in my 2cents also.

Feathering is a condition when the edge of each tread rib develops a slightly rounded edge on one side and a sharp edge on the other. By running your hand over the tire, you can usually feel the sharper edges before you'll be able to see them. The most common cause of feathering is incorrect toe-in setting, which can be cured by having It set correctly. Occasionally toe-in will be set correctly and this wear pattern still occurs. This is usually due to deteriorated bushings in the front suspension, causing the wheel alignment to shift as the car moves down the road

ooooooo shiney

am I the only one who read this wrong?

I use a small flat nail-bar. inch wide, slight curve and notched on the end.

glad to be of assistance. Let us know how it goes and we can walk into the next steps as well. I can't recall if you need an original remote to program a new one or if that was on my wife's van. I can always look in my owners manual or shop manual (I also have a 95)

those twetters are damn expensive!

yea. I was looking at a computer game but they wanted sixty bucks to ship the CD.

maybe it's the gold plated PS2

you should try tightening the clamps on that little fuel hose that connects the injector rails under teh intake manifold when the heads of the screws are 90 degrees from where you can get a screwdriver

there are a couple threads in here but here's a summary: with alarm switch position off/disable, remote fob will lock/unlock doors and has a panic button to trigger the alarm. With switch to impact or on, locking and unlocking works the same but it will also arm or disarm your alarm. Here's a quiock check to see if your system is working... turn your alarm switch on, open your drivers side window, get out, lock all the doors and close it. You should see your red light flash quickly for about 30 seconds then you will hear a chirp and your lights will flash once. Your alarm is now armed (passive arming) To see if the alarm will trigger, pull up the lock and open the door. If it goes off, you can simply get in, put the key in the ignition and turn it. Alarm will stop. If your system does not passively arm, you might have an open circuit on one of the sensors. Can't really check that unless you can activate it via remote and listen to the difference in the 'arm' sound (high beep is good, low blat is bad) disarming via remote will unlock doors and double beep and turn interior lights on. as for a remote.... EBAY search for FCC id G57NTX318. they show up frequently.

coat the whole thing in Herculiner! just keep it away from your hootus.