k9sar

1994 FSM zip file perhaps this will help

the only sure way to tell if the pump is good is to pull it and actually throw power to it with clip leads or something. Mine just stopped working (I don't even hear a buzz) but I haven't tried to fix it. My last failure was for the rear pump. Turns out the connection was bad (measured power on plug and clip leads made it work) Other failure was a leaky lower pump so I grabbed a full unit from a JY. I probably have one that works or at lease enough spare parts to rebuild one.

my first tranny failure was exactly as you describe. Reverse was the first to go but FWD gears were fine. The tranny shop who worked on it told me that reverse requires a higher line pressure and he suspected my pump was going bad. Sure enough, the pump had failed and smoked the reverse gear which subsequently ate the planetary assembly. I fear that you are on the brink of a catestrophic failure and would get it torn into ASAP.

stick around a bit... you may change your mind

Dude... where'd you find snow? We never get any snow around these parts (and the temps stay in the 60's too)

Althought I am supportive of the auto hubs, if/when mine finally fail, I will not replace them with auto hubs. My main point to all this discussion is that you need not worry about having auto hubs until they fail. Then replace them with a set or Warn or MM manuals.

you don't have to be moving to get them to engage. I wheel in 2wd most of the time and, if I get stuck, click into 4WD. Never had an issue with the hubs engaging once the axels start to get driven by the tranny. I HAVE been sitting in a mud hole watching some poor slob climb out of his truck to reach down into the muck and engage his manual hubs. To each his own, I guess.

I have OEM auto hubs on mine. I have only ever had them apart once and there was very little corrosion or need to regrease them. The only reason I had them apart was because I busted a CV axel crawling out of a mudhole over a tree stump. I question the comments about them being weak. They were stronger than my CV on that trip.

looks like the wiring for fogs thought mine does not have a seperate positive clamp for the battery

I've told my wife not to use the AC because it smells like a forest fire when you turn on the fan. Taking it apart and cleaning it is on my "to do" list. Of course, that list is long and there are more important things at the top. When is someone going to invent a machine that adds an extra 7 or 8 hours in a day?

I always push on and twist to break the seal before I pull them. I never pull by the wires.

cable ties, rubber hose, a couple of clamps and a screwdriver. Remove corner lights, front grill and have at it. No need to remove the bumper. Put the cooler in front of the radiator. There is plenty of room and you want max air flow to it or you are defeating the purpose of having one. My lines are routed through an opening beside the headlights. Make sure you don't pinch them and restrict the flow. A small length of hose and a couple clamps and you can put a loopback on the stock cooler to keep it from leaking (good idea even if you drain it)

northerners like to get the higher temp thermostat so they don't freeze their arses off in the winter.

and go lightly on the gasket sealer. the last thing you want to do is get goop into your line and plug the bleed hole in the t-stat or worse yet, interfere with the t-stat's operation

Well, Driving home from work on Monday, I was in bumper to bumper traffic. Once it began to thin out, I was able to accellerate from a crawl to over 35 mph. unfortunately, the truck decided that shifting into third was not an option. SH!T. So I ran through the basics that I could ( checking each available gear, shift points, listening for slippage, shift into 4th after winding out 3rd, overdrive on/off, freewheeling vs engine breaking, etc. Got home and ran self diagnostics with no failure indicated. Not in limp mode because that is locked in third and I have just the opposite. Called the garage that did the rebuild and told them it's f'ing broken inless than a month and I'm getting tired of their crappy work. The asked me to drop it off so they could diagnose the issue (I had my suspicions of what the problem was but didn't want to get dirty when I could have the fun of yelling at them) Dropped it off Tuesday morning and started making arrangements to borrow a car for a week or so while it was at the shop. Got a call today from my son sayign that the garage had called and the truck was done. DONE? I was waiting to hear back from them with the results of their diagnosis and if they were going to tell me how much it would cost, I was going to go ballistic on them. Now I'm thinking, they fixed it and when I go to pick it up, I can argue that I never authorized the repair, just the diagnostics so I wasn't paying for it. I called the garage and talked to the manager. My suspicions were correct. The third gear shift solenoid had failed in the open position causing all kinds of strange behavior due to the changes in fluid pressure (acts like a bad vacuum leak and has low pressure so reverse was intermittent as well). Now I was thinking... they replaced the solenoid pack back in Jan 08 when they rebuilt the tranny the first time. The most recent repair was clutch pack and valve body but not the solenoids. Out of warrenty damnit! Expecting an argument, I asked if this was a warrenty repair or if there was a charge. i was shocked to hear that they were going to cover it and there is no charge. Now I just have to get out there to pick it up sometime between work and my ballgame today.

what FSM are you looking in, the 94 or the 94/95 update? I thought I saw those specs when I was working on my crank bearings. I'll look when I get home.

Champions are fine for lawnmowers and chainsaws I wouldn't put them in my truck

That's a snazzy blue oil cap you have there

seem to be a bunch lately.

don't be too surprised. If you have ever tried to turn your cam just a little, you'll notice that there are places that it wants to be and places where it doesn't. You may have had it on the hairy edge and a temp fluctuation was enough to make it slip to a more stable location.

the cam marks are hard to see reverse dimples on the rear timing cover. Once you have TDC established, you need to put 43 teeth between the crank mark and the drivers side cam mark. Almost positive it's 43... it's been posted before. The cam marks should fall, when at TDC, around 1 o'clock on the drivers side cam and 11 o'clock on the passenger side.

pay attention to where you test the battery. If you are not starting and you throw jumper cables on it and it starts, that says battery UNLESS... you test the posts and it reads fine. Test on the posts under load (cranking) and make sure there isn't dramatic voltage drop. IF you have a bad conection between the posts and the clamps, you will have trouble starting but when you throw the jumpers on, you are clamping on the clamps, not the posts so you bypass teh possible fault location. IF you check the voltage on the posts as stated above, also test on the clamps.

in failed mode, see if you can measure the voltage to the solenoid on the starter. Pull the plug and throw a multimeter on it, using the frame as ground. If you turn the key (or have someone do it), you should read 11.x to 13v depending on your battery. If not, you are looking at either the ignition switch, interlock, or some point in the harness making a bad connection. Search a bit... that fix had been posted. if you get 12v, put the conecor back and try to start it. If nothing, the starter solenoid may be shot. If it starts, you may have either fixed the issue (perhaps bad connection at the plug to the solenoid) or missed the opportunity to detect the source.

i believe that is what the NPORA community is all about. Congrats on the success.

could be that flakey wiring from the ignition switch to the starter. My parents neighbor had an issue with it