k9sar

I think the old signal wire connectors carried the ground with them (hence 2 lugs) but the newer ground through the casing

couple weeks... probably not.

found it

I just posted that in another thread... hmmm.. now what were those numbers....

I have an engine from a 95 (VG30E). I think they are the same. I can certainly grab off my parts engine and drop a mailer at the post office for you if you can't pick one up local. If the local dealer doesn't have the item, they can get it and, if you do it that way, chances are that you will not pay for postage, just the part. I checked my local dealer... list price for valve keeper is $1.45 but they sell them for $1.09 each. I believe your local dealer will be your best bet with a low-priced item. Even with a 10% markup, you are still talking pennies.

there are a few places online that will sell you a fully rebuilt tranny like ours for under $800. It's a hundred or so to ship but there is usually a 12 to 18 month warrenty on it. At a boneyard, you never know what you are getting if you just pluck it yourself. You're call but just wanted to let you know what I found whilelooking for a solution to my problem

problem is that the ecu will get bad information and make unnecessary adjustments. You could run like crap or throw excess fuel into the cat and foul it. I would replace the O2 as soon as reasonable.

The 94 pathy (2wd or 4wd) use the RE4R01A auto transmission. If you specify your vehicle (truck vs pathy, ka24E vs vg30e, 2wd vs 4wd) they should get you the right one.

for the bolts, I would just take a wire brush to them. Throw a straight-edge along the threads and see if all the threads touch. It should be noticable if the bolt has been stretched (section of threads won't touch). If this is the case, DO NOT reuse them. Otherwise, you are probably ok. I cleaned the crap out of my cylinder with a shop-vac. For the lapping of the valves... DO NOT GET GRIT ON THE SHAFTS OF THE VALVES. You will grind your guides and that would be bad. Simply put some compount on the edge of the valves, seat it and spin. Take your time and do a good job. Pressure will squeeze the compound out but it grinds in the process. Use your finger to smear it back into the lip.

I much prefer MT's also. Make driving more personal.

and while the heads are out, I would reco re-lapping the valves. You can pickup lapping compound at most auto parts places for a few dollars (in a small tube) and just remove the springs and use a drill to chuck the stems and grind them by pulling rather than the typical suction cup way. If you choose to grind your valves and cleanup the seats so they seal better, let me know if you have any questions on how to do it. It's fairly quick and easy.

that's a tough one. I checked Advance Auto and even RockAuto online and they don't carry them. I even checked Partznet (my local dealership's online store) and they don't list them either. Are they a reusable part or does the manual recommend replacement with head work?

never heard of that one but I would imagine that you could pour water in the intake and exhaust ports and see if anything is leaking past the valves.

yea but... not sure it's worth the effort being that it's 15 years old and starting to fall apart. The only reason I bought an auto was the price. It was on the lot of a dealership that was moving and Nissan would not pay to trailer their inventory so they had a helluva blowout sale. I did my research and got it well below sticker price, nicely below invoice price and only about $150 over their actual cost (taking into consideration their volume kickback from Nissan). Did some last second negotiating over a POS Honda civic that barely made it to the dealership and probably ended up in Mexico as a taxi, had them throw in some touch-up paint, a full FSM set (the 94 service manual and the 94 update/95 delta book as well) and the roo-bar for the front at no additional cost.

it's fifteen years old. there's gonna be carbon. Probably a bit of a leak on the one cylinder (probably valve seal). And the cam sprocket bolts are 58 to 65 ft-lbs

I thought of that. I figure the worst case is that I order a replacement tranny and have it shipped to the shop and they put it in. So yea, I'd have to pay for the replacement and decide what it's worth for me not to have to do it myself. I work in my driveway because my garage is full of bikes, sports gear, my larger woodworking tools, a set of replacement garage doors, lots of tools and an engine. Though the weather is getting nice, I'm getting a bit too old to do another job like my wife's van (rebuilt the top end in November/December in 16 degree weather with wind and snow). My time is better used residing the house and I can afford to just throw money at this issue. If they are not going to do any repairs, I can probably get some more $$ off and the worst I'll be out is maybe $1400 and have a full rebuild w/ warranty. This shop is not some dad's garage. They have something like 10 bays and it's very well run. I just had a bad sequence of events.

with my frame fixed and a tranny rebuild, all I need to do now is put the skids back on (there are 3 or 4 broken bolts that will make that a PITA) and I'm ready to hit the trails again

well, I called the shop that did the rebuild back in Jan of 08 and spoke to the owner. I told him that I am pissed because I had my wife's van tranny rebuilt in Nov 07 and it leaked when I got it back (2400 bucks). Then I had the pathy done in Jan 08 (2500 bucks) and 16 months and 11000 miles later, it's screwed up. Of course, it's a 12 month warrenty. So anyway, I asked him for an estimate so I could decide if it was something cheap for them to do or if I was going to order a rebuild with an 18 month warrenty from Phoenix AZ and have it shipped to me for a little over $800. I can swap the tranny's but I just wasn't looking forward to rebuilding one. He couldn't give me an estimate without taking a look at it so I drove it over in 2nd gear and left it there on Wednesday evening. I got a call this morning from him confirming that it was something internal and it was a 3-4 problem/failure but he can't imagine why it would happen now and not immediately (if there was a problem with the rebuild). I voiced my dissatisfaction and distrust of their ability to solve the problem correctly and he made me an offer. He says he feels bad that I had so much done and it was not problem-free. A normal tranny job involves about $750 to remove and install and $800 or so to do the rebuild on the bench. He told me that he would do an after-warrenty adjustment and pull it apart, figure out what is wrong, fix it (if it's isn't something catastrophic) and reinstall it for an estimated price of $800. Now... I can either spend $800 (approx) to buy one and have it shipped and do the work myself -or- I can spend $800 (approx) and let someone else do all the work and rebuild mine. I told him to go ahead but to pay very close attention to what he finds and to call me and let me know because I post to the offroad board and this problem (and it's investigation and solution) may be of help to other pathfinder owners. He said it wouldn't be a problem and asked that I work with him on giving him extra time to do the job right. Duh... I should get it back late next week.

ok. I cleaned the aluminum heads off my dodge by using Easy-Off Max oven cleaner (the non-lye formula) Spray it on, wait 10 minutes, hit it with a brush (toothbrush for the little areas) and hose it off. Reapply any heavy areas if needed. It works wonders but is brutal on the skin so be careful. Before During (second application) After note... the oven cleaner will eat the aluminum so don't leave it on there for a long time and keep it off the head gasket surface

you can rotate the flywheen until you see one of the bolts holding the TC. Put a deep socket on it and a couple extensions and put pressure on it to hold the socket on it as it rests against the edge of the opening.

yea... feed it lots of fiber and keep the litter box clean so it doesn't crap on the floor

I have not pulled the lower intake yet. I can get a pic of the back of the engine but nothing under the lower. perhaps beastpath can snap one. I think his is a 91

agreed on the timing marks. A slight nudge counter clockwise and it will line-up fine. There is slop in the alignment depending on how you look at it. As for the plugs, if there is any coolant (or water etc) getting into the cylinder, it will effectively steam clean the internals. Not recommended to do on purpose though.

I ran the self test and all the electrical monitored systems checked out. I ran the diag procedures and it shifts at the proper speeds based on the auto/power setting and OD on/off. Electrically, it seems sound. I was thinking the TC but there are a couple reasons I don't think that is the issue... 1. if I jump on the gas from a stop, it takes off fine, no slippage. 2. If I get it up to speed on the highway, the TC should lockup. I can't tell if it does or not but I have no reason to believe it doesn't. If I hit the gas (moderately) so I don't kick down to D2, there is still slippage. A locked TC would not allow that. All diagnostics point to the high clutch. Now I have to decide what to do about it.

check your connector on top of the MAF. It is a known point of failure. Could be a harness issue. Follow diagnostic proc 24 in the FSM (pg EF & EC 84)