k9sar

all I really need is the recovery strap to drag me out to the street and my AAA card to get a tow home. Oh, and a few bucks to tip the driver.

never looked at mine. guess I'll crawl under the truck tonight

no idea what it's called. I replaced mine with silicone hot-pads after my floor rusted out and caught my carpet on fire

so bitching at the owner does actually help. Picked up my truck and got a heartfelt apology and 40 bucks off the bill. They still won't get any business from me (after 12 months or 12k miles).

typically, a CEL code needs to be cleared either manually (via tool) or by the vehicle operating for a number of times with good readings. I don't know the R50's specifically.

did it look like this?

try http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com

sounds like plate metal (as opposed to sheet metal like a heat shield) The first thing that comes to mind is the tensioner assembly. When you tighten the belt via the bolthead on top of the bracket, did you remember to then tighten the bolt through the pulley to hold it in place? Same with the power steering... there's the adjustment bolt then the lock bolt. If it goes away without the AC, PS and ALT belts, reintroduce them one at a time to see which one is causing the issue. Leave the fan off to protect your fingers and, when the noise comes back, use a mechanics stethescope or stick a piece of tubign in your ear and probe around for the source.

I bought my CV axels from advanceauto.com for something around 50 bucks. easy to install. I had destroyed one playing out at Rausch Creek

There is no alarm light on the dash in my 95. sounds like you have an aftermarket. Stock system, if the switch is turned to "on" or "impact off", you can passively arm the system by locking all doors then closing it. The red led on the switch should flash fast for about 30 seconds then you should hear a beep as the system is armed. The light then slow flashes. IF the system does not arm, you might have an open switch sensor. I found that in mine. it thought the hood was open due to a bent pin on the control module. remotes can be found on ebay for anywhere around 15 to 50 dollars depending on the condition. The FCC ID is G57NTX318 if you need a search criteria.

did you put the belt on before or after you put the rocker assemblies on? IF the belt is on, it is possible that putting the rocker arms in place actually shifted the cams and then the crank. Doubel check TDC if you have the #1 plug out bu inserting a ling screwdriver or similar and hand cranking the engine, watching the up/down motion to catch it at it's peak. cross reference with your distributer and that should do it.

ignore the picture. at TDC, you should line-up with #1 marks align, aligns with #1 -vs- a picture in the FSM hmmmm which to trust... the books doesn't make your truck run. go with the alignment

make sure you are TDC (check timing mark, not just cylinder at top of stroke cause it could be off 180 degrees). The distributor should line up as if the number 1 plug has fired (at or just past the plug 1 post) sicne it fires 15 degrees before TDC. The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 (simple, right? not like my old Ford)

Headers or manifolds, the heads and subsequently the exhaust ports have not changed size, shape or flavor so your normal gasket should be fine.

Just got a call from the garage...they found the problem but do not know why it happened. The intermediate band and the 3/4 clutch pack were burned up. I told him that this was probably due to my driving for 2 days with slippage in the high gears. They also found check balls stuck in the valve body plate which may have been the original source of the problem. We juggled the cost of the parts and when I pick it up, it will be a total of $965 out of my pocket. Maybe this one will last more than a year.

in my opinion, there shouldn't be anything like that in the water jacket. I would reach down witha pick or hook or something and see if it comes out. Perhaps it's part of a gasket or o-ring that got into the system.

I believe Aaron threw a torch on his pigtail and beat it out to the proper diameter rather than cutting it off. That would make a better seat and the heat should only affect a few inches of the spring and not change the characteristics significantly.

I agree on the O2 sensor. I would also check your connector/wires on your MAF. coils refers to the ignition coil (we only have one) located above the passenger side head cover wires are the spark plug wires. If shorted/broken/high resistance, you will not get spark in the cylinders and get poor mileage and rough running EGR is the exhaust gas recirc valve that sits on the side of your intake. It takes hot exhaust gas from your drivers side exhaust manifold and feeds it back into the engine.

not sure where you mean. I have not been that deep in my Nissan. If you can get a pic when you get home, I'll take a look in the morning or maybe someone else knows and will chime in.

that's how I did mine. Since the cut end does not wrap narrow to the previous coil, making a flat surface, try it both ways and see how it fits best.

on the crankshaft, there is the timing belt plate and the crank pulley plate that will keep it where it needs to be. As far as the cams and the tensioner, the belt will find it's own place to sit and will not jump off the end since the timing cover sits just off the pulleys and will not let it.

nice. can't chance that thing falling out

hmmm... mine was actually a nut-like thing welded onto the pipe.

it's built like a spark plug. There is a part that goes into the exhaust, a threaded section, a nut-ish section, the main housing and a wire. It is not a seperate nut that will spin off. The entire sensor should unthread from the welded part.

there is a nut welded onto the exhaust and the O2 threads into it. Spray the thing with penetrating oil (PB Blaster works great) and get a good wrench on the nut (part of the O2) furthest from the exhaust.