k9sar

FSM should have a tooth count listed. They do for the pathy

sorry... thought yours might be like mine. The rust is in the center and not near the attachment points etc. I have duct tape over mine to keep the water out until I can pickup some sheet metal to glue in.

if it runs like crap, jiggle the MAF sensor connector and wire and see if it makes a difference (while running if possible). I had that issue as well.

if all else fails, file (or dremel) opposite flat sides (make the head a rectangle) and get a big adjustable wrench on it. and soak it in penetrating oil

easy to get at if you pull the fan shroud and radiator

I found that once mine was broken loose, it came out easily (unlike rusty exhaust bolts that need to be worked back and forth a bit to clean the threads as you go). and use a zip tie to control that universal connector and keep it off the exhaust (depending on where you splice in).

get a piece of 1/2 inch tubing about 3 feet long. Hold one end to your ear and take the other end and probe at each stud location with the engine running. If you have a leak, you will hear it. You can also probe around with a magnet on each of the stud bolts and see which (if any) are loose - broken)

the reverse gear needs higher oil pressure to work properly. When your rear pump is failing, you do not get the pressure you need to activate the mechanism to give you reverse. That's how my first one went. The second tranny failed in forward... it started slipping in gear and finally I lost all but second. The only trip I would make in your truck would be to a tranny shop for a gut-replacement.

x2. There is a single O2 sensor. The connector is on the passenger side on the wheel well. The sensor is before the cat (I think) but since there is only one, it should be easy to find. PB Blaster it to ease the removal. I went with a Bosch generic that allowed me to use the existing wiring down to the exhaust then splice in the new sensor. The one with the OEM plug was more expensive. The knock sensor flags due to the engine running poorly due to the failing oxygen sensor. Fix the O2 first, reset the codes and all should be well.

Clean the area, smear it with silicone caulk/adhesive and slap a piece of sheet aluminum over it. It's not needed for structural support, just to keep crap from coming in (or going out). Simple fix. I used a cookie sheet and a couple of hot pads to fix my floor pan under the drivers side feet (above the exhaust) and it's been fine and passed inspection ever since.

yea... that little pos for the spring to catch on. Why the hell it's threaded is beyond me.

Still putting like a kitty have not had a chance to go back to the dealer since they cutback their hours and now close at 5:30 now... how STUPID is that? If you want to sell cars, you want to sell them to people who can afford them. 98% of those people WORK DURING THE DAY. If I had a dealership, I'd open at 3 and stay open till 10pm. friggin morons

ok... try this (hope you don't have dialup) 1994_FSM section EF page 108 Diagnostic procedure 35

boneyard if you have one. Most pathys in the ones near me are simply road-rats and those hooks have never been used.

The only knockign I have heard from my 2 '95 engines were either lifter, exhaust manifold, or the crankshaft. When I spun a main bearing, even after I replaced them, there was a little play in it and the one piston was hammering the bearing on each power stroke. Eventually, it flattened/spread it so much that the engine was noisy as hell and I decided to just swap it out.

make sure your injector connectors are seated well.

should I be concerned about welding back on the rear frame near the gas tank?

turns out my buddy who lent me the spring retainer clips has a big MIG welder in his garage buried under all his other crap. He took a course at a local tech school (otherwise known as the 'special' school) and he decided to buy one to restore an old car he had. Says it weighs a couple hundred pounds and runs off 220v so I think it should do the job. I can't use his garage due to all the crap he has in it but he's willing to let me dig out the welder and borrow it as long as I take care of it.

this looks like a good deal. Welder

So my pathy failed inspection today because the right rear frame rail has half-dollar sized holes in it. Time to learn how to weld. Of course, I could find a shop to do it for me but it's a good excuse to buy a welder. So, for those of you with the knowledge, here are my questions (I couldn't come up with the info via SEARCH) What would be the best type (MIG, TIG, etc) of welder to get for this type of repair and to be able to use for general fabrication of racks or guards? What is required to prep the area to be welded? Any suggestions on how to do the repair (flat stock welded to suface, cut frame and weld in new piece, etc.) Thanks. I have until the end of the month to make the repairs (anyone want to come over to easter PA for a welding party?) oh yea... I guess I should consider amps etc when picking one. More amps welds bigger crap, right? What would be the minimum needed to do this job?

got a part number so I can rub their stupid noses in it?

so the dealership called that my part had arrived. I asked my wife to swing by and pick it up for me. I get home last night and she is proud to present me with the part she picked up... IT'S THE FRIGGIN STUD THAT THE TENSIONER SPRING HOOKS ONTO, NOT THE ONE THAT HOLDS ON THE TENSIONER!!!!!! WHAT A BUNCH OF FRUCKING IDIOTS!!!! What part of "The stud that attached the timing belt tensioner to the cylinder block broke off and the tensioner fell off. I need a new stud to reattach the tensioner" does not make sense??? I'm gonna have a field day when I take the little thing back over there and return it. good thing I decided not to wait and I installed a hex bolt instead.

does this help? and don't over fill it

A friend of mine has been a mechanic for many years. I borrowed them from him.