k9sar

Here is the extractor. The tip has been ground mostly away on the opposite side by drilling out the hole then picking at it until it finally released and was able to be removed. I tried picking at it. I tried more heat thinking that the differences in thermal properties may loosen it. I tried smacking the block with a hammer to vibrate it loose. No dice. CRAP! So I took tot he task of drilling out an extractor. Three cobalt bits and 2 tungsten carbide bits later, I has an oval hole and a wobbly piece of an extractor that was in too far to grab with pliers. A small wire with a hook on the end was enough to slip in there and get behind it to pull. Out it came but what a fieaking mess I had now. Drilling out the hole to be tapped after making it oval by trying to drill out the extractor. The drill decided to follow the edge of the extractor and creep into the soft block rather than stay centered on the busted hardened steel extractor. Ready to tap. The hole is slightly to the right of where it used to be due to the creeping of the dril while getting the extractor out. This means the tensioner is tighter against the t-belt and there is not much room for adjustment. Time will tell if it's OK Here is me carefully tapping the hole to the wrong pitch thread. The story was that I decided not to wait for the replacement stud to come in (just got the call today that it's here). I carefully measured the diameter and thread pitch on the broken off part of the stud and never expected the damned thing to be a different pitch on each end. So, the part that has the nut was 1.25 pitch while the part remaining in the block was a 1.5 pitch. I didn't realize that until I decided to use the stud from the old engine and rethread the screwed up end to something slightly smaller but with good threads. I went to put it in the block and it would not go. I was screwing a 1.5 pitch stud into a 1.25 pitch hole. CRAP! The finished solution. A class 8.8 M10x1.25 hex head bolt with a lock washer

She's running again but the path was long and strange. So here we go (with pictures) As I mentioned before, the tensioner stud had snapped off, the timing belt had been shaven, creating lots of fuzz in the cover. There were dusty metallic pieces from the grinding away of the joint between the oil pump and water pump. I was able to drill the broken piece and was unable to remove the stud from my old engine block (I screwed the threads in the process). here are some pics before the repair... The timing belt groove The ground aluminum I found everywhere more dust and fuzz here you can see where the result of the stud breaking. The tensioner got trapped against the wall and ground it into a fine dust. What a friggin mess. I was extremely lucky that the tensioner wedged where it did or I could have jumped timing and followed Colby's lead in destroying an engine A closer look at the worn area the inside of the lower timing cover What I was up against... What it should look line (my old block) So I broke out my MAPP/Oxygen torch and heated the stud int he old engine to break the threadlock and get an idea how much torque I would need to get the broken piece out of my block. Not to bad. It came out but the stud puller screwed up the threads on the stud (that and the buggered two-nut approach prior to heating). Anyway, I threw heat to the block and broken piece. I held fire to it for much longer than I did on the old block, hoping to make it a little easier. Then I put in my new square extractor. A couple taps with a hammer and a big wrench. I got the wrench as close to the block as I could in an effort to reduce the probability of side-loading the extractor when I torqued it. I put a socket on the end (didn't have one that would engage tightly but it would help me control the side load as I pulled up on the wrench. SNAP! pieces flew. All except the piece that was still in the hole and it wasn't about to come out. CRAP!

well.. I snapped my cobalt bit (1/16) off just as I was getting through the bolt (luckily it wasn't bottomed out in the hole). I was able to pull the broken piece out and there was about a half twist left on the shaft so I was able to rechuck it and finish the pilot hole. I'll pickup a handful of sized of them when I get the extractors. The cobalt bits are more fragile but they stay sharp. I'm not sure what grade the stud was but it wasn't terribly hard to drill (unlike the case hardened rocker arms I was trying to drill a couple months ago). so, if I understand these extractors correctly, you drill the pilot, put the extractor in and hammer it in to cut itself a grip. Then throw some torque on it. If it strips, drive it in harder or use a bigger one. and, before doing any of that, break out the MAPP torch and heat the son-of-a-bitch smoking hot to fry the locktite

what's the advantage of a square or fluted extractor vs the spiral ones? I can swing by the local sears and pickup a set of these if they will work better

Colby nailed it. I'm surprised I made it home without trashing the engine. I pulled it apart and the timing cover was full of fuzz. Turns out the stud that the tensioner rides on has snapped off at the block and the tensioner became trapped between the timing belt and the place where the housing for the water pump meets the oil pump. That area was ground down to the point where that little black gasket was exposed. Lots of little metal shavings all over the place. The tensioner looks like it was chewed on. Luckily, the timing belt did not slip at all so the valve train is still OK. Now for the problem.... How to get that damned piece of the stud out of the block. Guess what... it's threadlocked and torqued to about 40 ft-lbs. I center punched it and drilled a 1/16 hole with a nice little cobolt drill all the way through the bolt and into the cavity behind it. Then I enlarged the hole to 7/32 using a right-angled attachement on my drill since the bit was too long to allow me to get in there without taking out the radiator. I slipped in an easy-out and put a T handle on it and started to horse on it. I got to the point where I would need to add some leverage to the handles to get any additional torque but I had visions of breaking off another easy-out. Not good cause the are nearly impossible to remove if you break them. So I decided to try to remove the one from the junk engine I have sitting in my garage. That way, I could get an idea of how much torque wouldbe needed to break it loose. I couldn't get a stud-puller on it due to the water pump and oil pump housings so I tried the 2-nut trick. All I managed to do was rip the threads off the stud and out of the outer nut. I was using a wrench and a 3 foot pipe to get torque on it and it wasn't moving. damn. So I called the local parts place and that is not an item they carry so it was off to the dealership. Yea, they can get me one... it is something like $0.77 but they would have to order it. I called all the local dealerships and apparetnly nobody stocks them. So, I pay 77 cents and wait 4 days till it arrives. The plan now is to drill the hole larger and try to tap it to the original size and thread (10mm 1.25) and slam a replacement in the same hole. I'm gonna try to throw a torch on the old engine and see if I can burn out the threadlock and not melt any of the surrounding aluminum. If I can get that one loose, perhaps I can torch the engine in my truck and coax it out withoug breaking the easy-out. this sucks

so after I did my water pump and timing belt and such, I thought I had my pwr steering pump belt too tight but I figured it would be ok once the belt stretched a little bit. Then I got involved in rebuilding the wife's van and totally forgot about the pathy. So I started to hear a little grinding like a bearing in a pulley was going and I figured I would take care of it once the weather got above freezing. Today, I started it and, besides the stuck lifter that pecked loudly for about three minutes before going quiet, the was this nasty noise coming from the front of the engine. I could still hear the bearing and I think it's just the top tensioner/idler but I'm not positive. In top of that, there is periodically a noise that is a cross between a fan blade hitting the shroud and the timing cover breaking out into a violent vibration. I grabbed my stethescope and probed several items... idler made some crunchy sound (expected), the pwr steering pump was fine, the altenator was quiet, the water pump just purred and the fan was not hitting anything. I got under and put the probe on the oil pan. That is not the source of the noise. It doesn't sound internal. I could hear it the loudest on the timing cover and on the bracket holding the tensioner. The pwr steering belt seems to have a vibration in it but I'm not sure if that would oscillate enough to make that loud of a noise. I guess I'll start tomorrow by removing one component at a time to see when the noise stops. Fan first, then each of the three belts, one at a time. I won't have to worry about overheating (it's 10 degrees F right now) and I don't need the AC. If I get all the belts off and the noise is still there... I'll tear into the timing belt and perhaps it's the tensioner in there. Any thoughts?

The TRW ones I bought had little bolts in the holes, seperate zerks in the box that you could install if you wanted and they were pre-packed with grease.

pull the coil wire and see if it sparks to ground when you crank the engine. If no, your coil or coil wire is shot. If you have coil spark, I would then look at the distributer and timing.

Can't you catch a ride from your girlfriend?... oh wait... nevermind

cool. glad it's woking now. I'll still bet that the battery issue was simply bad contact between the clamps and posts but that's not an issue anymore, right? Now I can cleanout my host space and remove the AT manuals and put the full FSM back up.

now you have a spare to rebuild and be ready for when the replacement eats itself

here are the AT sections of the FSM for your truck. The 1994 is the base and the 1995 is an update. (For 95, they did not issue a full FSM, only a delta) 1994_AT.pdf 1995_sup_AT.pdf

yes. the ECU uses the TPS as input for that

should have no effect on a body lift as this is suspension only If anything, it should be easier (more room to work) You can do with the old shocks and UCA's but it wouldn't hurt to replace them. I got about 3" of lift using the poor-man's method (JGC springs and t-bar) and left everything else the way it was. It's been a few years and my ball joints are still fine Only thing I noticed is that the adjustable shocks aren't. The little comfort/sport switch is constantly lit and makes no difference when I push it. Could be the shocks extended or I could have f-d witha connector by accident. When it gets above freezing, I may decide to look into it.

start now pickup parts when the stores open should not be an issue to make your schedule remove the fan cowl, take the fan off the water pump, start removing things for clearance (belts etc) then the covers. Ignore the t-stat etc unless you find you have time before putting it back together. if you are lucky and can get the crank pulley off without a puller, you shouldn't have to pull the radiator. It may take a little longer to systematically tap it off but takes less time in the long run

with the dead battery issue, I would have suspected that youhad bad cable to post connections. Not enough juice from battery to run or to be charged but when you jump, you connect to the cables, not the terminals. If you frucked with the battery cables in any way, either by testing them or hitting the cables one one of your jumps, you could have reestablished the conenction. I would pull the clamps, clean the posts and reseat them. That's step one. As for the shifting, the E/AT affects the tranny control module and the ECU. As posted earlier, it changes when the tranny is told to shift. You need to further characterize the shifting issue... does it shift from D4 to D2 if you stomp on the gas? What does it do when you turn off overdrive while it's in D4? (Downshift or not). Does it downshift from D4 or D3 if you move teh selector from D to 2? If you need, I can host an electronic version of the AT section of the FSM for a bit if yu want to download it. It contains diagnostic procedures etc. as well as good wiring diagrams and such.

it all depends on where you pause when reading the description... YR 1989 NISSAN PATHFINDER 4X4 V-6 AUTOMATIC, NEEDS THROTLE BODY, MOTOR & TRANSMISSION GOOD,BODY IN GOOD SHAPE,SUN ROOF, INTERIOR IS NICE! CONTACT JOHN (214)306-1530

I have a few spare ones from junkyard runs. I always check the glass and hatch struts whent he get a new WD21 in. If they are good, I grab them.

here either. We have about 10 pathys in various states of disassembly but no R50's. Guess they consider them disposable with that unibody construction

I would look at the ground connections.

mmmmmmmmmmmm... zombies!

probably not good just to drill and mount the dangling piece. That would change the geometry. I would reco either reattaching the two pieces or fabbing something that will mount and put the spring anchor point at the same location as the original.

ah yes.. there it is.. in the Brake's section.

I took a quick scan through the 99 FSM and didn't see anything that jumped out.

12 lifters if you bore them, replace your rings if you're pulling the pistons, you have access to the bearings. If you replace them, make sure you have the right size