k9sar

94's and 95's were the same. I just filled mine. Gas idiot lite came on coming home from work. Drove about 14 miles (figure that was a gallon). Filled it (but did not top off the filler tube) and it took 18.3 gal.

I just dump in 4 and be done with it. That way I don't have my garage cluttered with partially empty oil bottles

all quarts are not created equal and there are variations in models VG30E 2WD w/ filter 4 1/4 US quarts or 3 1/2 Imp quarts or 4.0 liter VG30E 4WD w/ filter 3 5/8 US quarts or 3.0 Imp quarts or 3.4 liters VG30E 2WD w/o filter 3 7/8 US quarts or 3 1/8 Imp quarts or 3.6 liter VG30E 4WD w/o filter 3 1/8 US quarts or 2 5/8 Imp quarts or 3.0 liters

once you find the issue, if it's something pricey but easy to remove and ship, let me know. I'll help ya out.

oh yea... and tie the shaft to somethign so it doesn't flop around and possibly interfere with your steering

not needed. CV's are shot. simply disengage your 4wd and your tranny won't be turning them. recognize this part?

only certain codes will trigger the light of death.

the engines all have serial numbers stamped on them. unfortunately, they are at the back of the engine (see page GI-18 of the 94 FSM for a reference of the VG30E and the KA24E) There was somewhere I saw that you can tell the model of the engine by some stamp point on the block itself if you don't trust the VIN or spec plate. I don't think this would help with the year though.

I did the poor-man's lift a couple years ago and have not had a ball joint problem at all. I got about 3" lift (depends on what springs you get). I have a thread in here about my lift (with pictures)

drivers side firewall side underside

I have a spare intake laying in my garage if you need a picture of the back of it

sounds like those rear heater hoses to me. PITA to get to but, while you're back there, have you thought about replacing #6?

maybe you guys can help me with this. I've got a 95 SE and lately, I've been hearing really strange sounds from my front passenger side. It seems to be speed dependent as it is typically a low buzz or murmurring sound at speeds up to about 40. From 40 to 70, it gets progressive louder and much more annoying. The best way to describe it is if you have ever watched a Charlie Brown cartoon special where one of the kids is talking to the teacher. Bwah ba bwa wan... Really annoying. At around 85, I start to hear this thumping from the floor on that side. It's even stranger since it seems to be louder in heavy traffic. Maybe that's just the sound reflecting back off the close cars. Once I get above 90 though, the noise turns to a loud screeching, almost ear piercing, and oddly is accompanied by a pain in my right shoulder. Any ideas?

well I wasn't thinking about the entire layer, just the first few wraps

I don't have a winch but it seems to me that you should never rely on the connection point to hold any force. Is it not a good idea to try to keep a few wraps on the spool or am I just overthinking this? Of course, if you are a foot from making the hookup and can't pull any closer, I guess you have no choice but to spool it all out.

yea... plugged egr would caouse stalling mine was full of mud

and NIORA translates to "Help, I'm tied to the bars with an angry Samoan behind me and I have no lube"

I forget where the pressure regulator is on the nissans but I had a similar issue on a dodge that had the pressure regulator as part of the fuel pump. It was failing and not maintaining sufficient pressure for the injectors to work. Just a thought.

2nd that

and the engine clears better if it is tilted up at an angle when removing or installing. Been there... done that. Good luck man. It's not an easy job but it can be done if you take your time and pay attention to detail. and don't forget about those 2 bolts on the top of the bell housing that bolt to the engine.

I believe the main issue is with the tranny. If you have an auto tranny, there won't be enough room (or the right room) for the crossover if you try to install headers. Now, with that said, and that is the official version, I spoke with the folks at thorley and they tell me that it is quite likely that their product will work with either tranny. They have not received any feedback that there has been a problem with the installation. so... here's my reco: If you have an auto tranny, go with the thorleys (even though I have pacesetters but have yet to install them) If you have a manual tranny, you need to balance between quality and cost.

the flywheel bolts onto the torque convertor with a few bolts that you access through the hole where the starter mounts (and I think there are a couple bolts holding a plate over the area. I would put the convertor back in the tranny and then bolt the engine to it when the time comes. make sure one of the bolt holes is in the area of access and when the motor is in, have someone crank the engine by hand with a big socket on the crank shaft until the hole lines up. Once one is on, the rest are easy

I put new ones in the doors of my 95. I had to cut away at the plastic mounting housing a little bit to accomodate for the lip of the speaker cone and I had to heat and push the back out to make room for the magnet but it wasn't that hard to make them fit. Even if it were a hack job, with the grills on, you can't tell

if you're gonna get a caR50, look for one with a hot little redhead in it. I hear they really scream.

unless you drive around wih a bunch of fat people