k9sar

rear hatch. common problem and easy fix. search (cause I don't recall the link offhand)

the arm will take a little pulling (use a gear puller if you have one) They are on pretty tight to the splines. there should eb info in the FSM for taking that crap apart

does the purple oily substance match in color to the AT fluid on your dipstick? If so, you have a leak in your AT cooler which is built into your radiator. If not, you may have a leak in your AC. The purple may be a leak-detector that was added to the system.

well... your truck IS 13 years old. There's bound to be some rust.

1. check for 12v on the starter (big cable that's easy to get to) This is constant hot. 2. Check for 12V on the 'trigger' wire tot he solenoid (unplug it from the starter, test voltage. should be 0v initially but jump to at least 11v when key is turned to start. if not 12v to starter main wire, check battery voltage and connections. check fusable link (set of 3 wires coming off positive battery cable. you can look at fusable link ) if not 12v on trigger, bypass the ignition circuit and jumper battery positive to the solenoid on the starter. This will tell you if the problem is in the ignition system. If so, read this If there is good voltage to the solenoid and you hear a good 'thunk' but no spinning of the starter, you will need to pull it. Now you have 2 options, buy one or fix yours. Carefully disassemble the starter, being sure that you remember how it goes back together (especially the lever and spring to/from the solenoid). Examine the windings for any obvious short (yes, it will be obvious... black and burnt). If found, buy a new one. If not, continue by cleaning all the dust out of the rotor slots and between the commutator sections. The conductive dust from the brushes can sometimes cause a short by building up in these areas. Put it back together, making sure to seat the brushes on the commutator correctly. Test the fix by throwing a set of jumper cables on it. Ground the case to the truck and clamp one end of the red to the pos battery. Touch the other end of red to the spade on the solenoid (you may need a jumper wire to get at it). If it thunks but does not spin... buy a new one. If it throws the gear out and spins like crazy, you have successfully saved yourself a hundred bucks or so and should get many more years out of the starter.

it's in the front of the FSM WHLYD21DJKRU88 W = wagon H = VG30E engine L = left hand drive Y = standard wheelbase (4WD) D21 = D21 as in WD21 D = 4 door J = XE K = 4-speed floor shift auto tranny R = ? ( B = multiport fuel injection. did you read this right?) U = non-california USA model 88 = ?

last time my engine got dirty was ... 13 years ago. I clean it by hitting the puddles that form on the asphalt rather than those in the dirt.

try simply unplugging the alarm module and trying to start it. I'm not sure if the alarm interrupts the fuel pump, injectors, or what. It's some magic through the ECU

and don't forget to post your findings. 1. it can help us further your diagnosis 2. it can be helpful to others who arrive here with similar issues. Thanks

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ listen to him... he knows his crap .

I think the 95's have an alarm system that kills the fuel flow when activated. Should bypass this when the key is turned. Do you hear your fuel pump when you turn the key on? If I recall in your other thread, you have fuel pressure in the rails so my guess would be no, this is not the issue. I will go back and reread your other thread to check the symptoms closer but an engine is fairly simple... it needs air, fire, fuel and all at the right time. in a nutshell... Does the starter engage they flywheel and crank the motor when you turn the key (if yes, starter is ok) If you pull a plug and ground it to the block and crank the engine, do you have spark (if yes, assume you have fire in at least one cyl) If you disco your coil and crank the engine, then pull the plugs, are they wet with fuel (if yes, getting fuel) If you pull the plug on cyl 1 and hand crank CAREFULLY until a probe inserted through the hole indicates that you are at TDC, pull your disty cap and check to see if you are aligned to fire on cyl 1 (if so, timing close enough to act like it wants to start) May be 180 degrees off... that's bad Air won't matter until it starts. With clogged filter, you'll start but choke out shortly. I think you don't even get any attempt to start but I'll reread. There are also a couple of interlock-type thingies that would prevent starting but typically they cut power to your starter solenoid so you can't even crank it over. Stick with it,.... we'll get to the bottom of this mess. make sure you paya ttention eo every symptom. even a fluctuation or cycling as you crank can indicate something different than if it were simply the starter spinning the engine.

may be high resistance of your plug wires and getting them wet will short to the block rather than through the plug. Could also be a cracked distributer cap. Next time you have issues, pull the disty cap and check for fluid.

and when you show up for court and the cop arrives... tell him to go get you a cup of water. After all, he is a public servant, right? and bring him a donut... they love that kind of humor

I picked up a cheap OBD II scanner at harbor freight for 30-some dollars. Problem with just clearing before taking it in is that it will probably come on during the test. The P1400 code says you have a faulty EGR solenoid valve. If you got some other code in the 1400 range, post what it is or check this table: P0000 No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated P0100 MAF Sensor P0105 Absolute Pressure Sensor P0110 IAT Sensor P0115 ECT Sensor P0120 TP Sensor P0125 ECT Sensor P0130 Closed Loop, Bank 1 Or Front O2S, Bank 1 P0131 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Lean Shift Monitoring P0132 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Rich Shift Monitoring P0133 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Response Monitoring P0134 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 High Voltage P0135 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 1 P0136 Rear O2S, Bank 1 P0137 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Minimum Voltage Monitoring P0138 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Maximum Voltage Monitoring P0139 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Response Monitoring P0140 Rear O2S, Bank 1 High Voltage P0141 Rear H02S Heater, Bank 1 P0150 Closed Loop, Bank 2 Or Front O2S, Bank 2 P0151 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Lean Shift Monitoring P0152 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Rich Shift Monitoring P0153 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Response Monitoring P0154 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 High Voltage P0155 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 2 P0156 Rear H02S Sensor, LH Bank P0158 Rear O2 sensor, LH P0159 Rear O2 sensor, RH P0160 Rear O2S, Bank 2 P0161 Rear H02S Heater, LH Bank Or Bank 2 P0171 Fuel System Lean, Bank 1 P0172 Fuel System Rich, Bank 1 P0174 Fuel System Lean, Bank 2 P0175 Fuel System Rich, Bank 2 P0180 Tank Fuel Temp Sensor P0300 Random Misfire P0301-P0308 Misfire, Cylinder No. 1–8 P0325 Knock Sensor, Bank 1 P0330 Knock Sensor, Bank 2 P0335 CKP Sensor (Pos) P0340 CMP P0400 EGR System P0402 EGRC/BPT Valve P0403 EGR Volume Control Valve Circuit P0420 TW Catalyst System, Bank 1 P0430 TW Catalyst System, Bank 2 P0440 EVAP Small Leak P0443 Purge Control/V & S/V P0446 Vent Control Valve P0450 EVAP Pressure Sensor P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor P0505 IACV/AAC Valve P0510 Closed TP Sensor P0600 A/T Comm Line P0605 ECM/ECU P0705 PNP Or Inhibitor Switch P0710 ATF Temp Sensor P0720 VSS A/T P0725 Engine Speed Signal P0731 A/T 1ST Signal P0732 A/T 2ND Signal P0733 A/T 3RD Signal P0734 A/T 4TH Signal Or TCC P0740 TCC SV Solenoid P0744 A/T TCC Signal P0745 Line Pressure S/V P0750 Shift Solenoid/V A P0755 Shift Solenoid/V B P1105 MAP/BARO Switch SOL/V P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control, LH Bank P1120 TP Sensor 2 P1125 Tandem TP Sensor P1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve P1135 Intake Valve Timing Control, RH Bank 2 P1140 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, LH Bank 1 P1145 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, RH Bank 2 P1148 Closed Loop, Bank 1 P1165 Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Check Switch P1168 Closed Loop, Bank 2 P1210 Traction Control Signal Circuit P1220 FPCM P1320 Ignition Signal, Primary P1335 CKP Sensor (Ref) P1336 CKP Sensor (POS) Cog P1400 EGRC Solenoid/V P1401 EGR Temp Sensor P1402 EGR System P1440 EVAP Small Leak P1441 VC/V Bypass/V P1443 Canister Control Vacuum Check Switch P1444 Purge Volume Control/V P1445 Purge Volume Control/V P1446 Vent Control Valve P1447 EVAP Purge Flow P1448 Vent Control Valve P1490 VC/V Bypass/V P1491 VC Cut/V Bypass/V P1492 Purge Control/V S/V P1493 Purge Control/V & S/V P1605 A/T Diag Comm Line P1705 TP Sensor A/T P1706 PNP Switch P1760 Overrun Clutch S/V P1900 Cooling Fan

hookup a timing light to each plug and see if any are not firing. if all are firing, let the engine cool then pull the coil wire and crank it for a bit. Then pull each plug and see which is dry (failed injector). that's the route I'd take

reset your SES light. the emissions test equip will read the code and fail the test. Pads are easy to put on... consider taking the 15 minutes to do it yuourself rather than have the shop charge you for it. If you have any questions about how, just post. I do mine, my neighbors, my parents, etc. Alternatively, if you plan to be in the philly area in teh enxt couple weeks, pm me and we'll hookup and do them quick.

coming along. What'd ya do about that frame rot?

no significant difference between the two unless you are in the 20 kelvin and below range trying to keep it liquid. the conversion from ortho to para is exothermic and when you go that cold, it all wants to be para. simple misinterperatation of words... like saying sunspots are cold (which they are when compared to the normal temp of the sun's surface)

oh Evan..... lookie lookie

ROFL!

standard things to check are brake pads, tire tread depth, marker lights, leaks on shocks or struts (wipe them down then dust with dirt before inspection. instant 'no leaks'). If you have emissions testing, there's not much you can check beforehand. If it's running smoothly, you're probably OK. Look for any excessive play in your tie-rod ends, c-link or ball joints. shops love to hit you for those and, unless they are obviously loose, it's impossible for them to really say they're out of spec (but they're the ones with the sticker, right?) Bottom line is to make it clear to them that you do all your own work so just check it and list what doesn't pass and the measurements that they made to determine it (you can check the spec in the FSM). I had a pep-boys tell me that my rotors were too thin. I checked them and they were well within spec. turns out their software/database listed the max thickness spec as the minimum allowable. I carried in the FSM and showed them that they were wrong. Got my sticker. Good luck.

was gonna convert mine to run on methane but the thought of "plugging in" every time I need to drive anywhere makes my arse hurt

there's a quicker way to generate hydrogen gas.... fill your tank with HCl and shovel in a bunch of seashells (plentiful and free). Now all you have to do is keep it from eating your car and find a way not to explode.

marinas typically have the good stuff since ethanol eats the resin away in fiberglass fuel tanks that are common in boats. Just have to drive up to the dock and convince the guy to pump it. Maybe that's what Nismo was up to on the Delaware.

ok... let's talk physics... natural hydrogen molecules pretty much exist in 2 forms... orthohydrogen and parahydrogen. The only difference is the spin of the nuclei. ortho makes up about 75% and has parallel spin while para is antiparallel and makes up the remaining 25%. so... buzzwords only. You'd be better off trying to run off of dihydrogen molecules (yea... same damned thing, just ignoring the spin). :tonguefinger: