k9sar

typically, the I6 have tthe lighter springs (probably FJ's). coil count should be same but throw a quick measurement on the wire thickness. anything over .52 should give you some lift

standard features on teh 95 LE 4WD: Bucket Seats Center Console Fog Lights Power Heated Mirrors Keyless Entry System Limited Slip Differential Power Antenna Power Brakes Rear Window Defroster Sunroof 3.0L V6 SOHC 12V FI Engine 15 Inch Wheels 4-Speed Automatic Transmission Automatic Locking Hubs Tachometer Alloy Wheels Rear-Wheel ABS Anti-Theft Alarm System Leather Seats Cruise Control Power Steering Remote Trunk Release Tilt Steering Wheel Leather Steering Wheel Trim Air Conditioning Intermittent Windshield Wipers Power Windows Privacy Glass Rear Window Wiper Power Door Locks Roof Rack AM/FM/Cassette/CD Audio System Rear Spoiler Chrome Bumpers

fluid? I thought it was brake paste. Last time I pulled the calipers to see why they were sticking, I could clearly see the black brake paste. Looked good to me... not like that thin runny sh!t in other cars.

Fixed that for ya

there is no place I know to download a Haynes manual... probably a good thing. There are multiple options for acquiring a real FSM. Seek and ye shall find (cause I'm too lazy to post the link)

if you look at the electrical diagram for the 94 w/ intermittend wipers, there are a couple places that could cause the disruption you speak of. Take a look there first, throw a volt meter on a couple connectors and see if you have a short somewhere.

Since the last test, I cleaned the MAF (not very dirty), swapped the TPS with my old one, swapped both the temp sensor and the sending unit in the cooling system with junkyard finds, swapped the EGR temp sensor with my old one, swapped the coil with my old one, swapped the O2 sensor with one thought to be good but used, repaired a wire harness that ran to the speed sensor on the tranny (it was laying against and melted to the exhaust flange just down the pipe from the manifold), waved my chickenbone cross and sacrificed a virgin.

well... she's going back in for the third time. (fingers crossed) YAY! It passed. I'll see the numbers when I pick it up. Now, If I can figure out what piece of what I did actually fixed the problem.... the numbers... 2008 test: CO% 0 (limit 5.4%) --- HC ppm 63 (limit 537) --- NO ppm 60 (limit 7380) --- 14.5% dilution at 576 RPM wonder what the numbers would be like if tested at over 1200RPM... oh well.. no matter now.

the fuel pump in a dodge caravan is easily accessable from the drivers side midway back. If you pull the hose with the yellow clip, run a tube from that port into your tank and jumper 12 v into the connector, it'll drain the caravan into your pathy. not that I have ever done such a thing. edit... if you use the green clip connection, that's the return line and you'll have to attach your hose to the fuel line rather than the fuel pump

it's a fun sequence if it's anything like the 95's. You go through a series of turn key on, set power switch to auto, put it in park, turn OD off, put it in 2, turn OD on, put it in 1, turn OD off, depress gas to the floor and release, read the flashing light on the shift selection switch... etc. like I say... lemme know if you can't find it.

ummm... there are a lot of differences across those years. What are you looking for in particular? I have '94 thru all the R50's but nothing pre-94

FSM in the AT section. THe FSM's are posted in here sonewhere. If you can't locate them, pm me and I can mail you or host the appropriate section for you to download

if it happens again, follow the procs for self diagnosis and it will tell you why it's in limp mode.

looks like it's afraid of the mud

good thing I snagged an ECU in the $7 haul the other day

so.. as mentioned in the poho thread.... I have a new issue. On the way home from the junkyard, the pathy didn't have any oomf. Idled fine, rev'd fine in neutral or park but when placed in gear (didn't matter if it was 1, 2 or D), accelleration was sluggish like if you were dragging a boat or trailer. The engine would be retarded by what appeared to be a load on it. (sincker... sorry). Anyway, as I got up to speed, I noticed that ther tranny wasn't shifting. If I stomped on the gas, the engine just slowly climbed in RPM without downshifting. Turning on/off OD seemed to have an effect but only with the OD gear. What I determined was that I was starting in 2nd or 3rd gear and had lost the lower gear(s). Wondering ig the engine was powerless, I threw it into reverse and it took off, throwing gravel all over the place. back to Drive and it groaned as it accelelrated (and didn't shift). Parked in front of the house when I got home and decided that the problem was with the forward gears in the tranny that had just been rebuilt. In the morning, I planned to take it to the tranny shop. So, at 7am this morning, I jumped in and put it into gear... damned thing took off like nothing was wrong (except running rough due to the emissions issue I'm trying to resolve) I called the tranny shop and they said to bring it in anyway and they'd look at it. I hoped it wopuld fail on their watch but it did not. I spoke with the mechanic and he says that there is nothing wrong internally to the tranny and that something is kicking it into effectively a safe mode or limp mode. I was not aware that an auto tranny had such a thing. He suggested perhaps a MLP switch or the TPS might be causing it. What's an MLP switch? Anyway... I'm picking it up so I can work on the emissions crap this weekend. Anyone have any insight into the AT limp mode (if it exists)? What might be common to the emissions problem or why would it resolve itself by just sitting. Temp dependent? I'm getting p[issed at this thing. Gonna do some in-depth reading in my FSM this evening.

relo kit. Never cut a skid plate... all the mojo will drain out

check your timing. If you are on the hairy edge of where it should be, you might just choke it to death with no fire due to the spark advance on accelleration. Just a thought

under... behind... whatever any guess where I would find it on my 30E? The item called the coolant temp sensor is on the housing by the thermostat. I couldn't find any online listing of parts for the 95 that had a seperate temp sensor for the heads. update: found a reference to an egr temp sensor on one of the dealer sites. This what it looks like?

I know the VG30i's have a CHTS under the timing cover but I don't recall ever seeing or hearing of one on the VG30E's. Not the same as the coolant temp sensor, I assume.

755 seems steep. even with labor (or "labour" for you canadian readers) included. AdvanceAutoParts.com

I just rebuilt my starter... pulled chunks of dirt out of it that got injected through that drain hole when I was muddin'. screw the tube... you don't need it.

Ok... so here's the deal. My 95 pathy has failed emissions testing Symptoms: The pathy seems to idle fine and run fine during accelleration but has a bit of a dead spot in the power band when cruising along steadily at 2000 to 2500 RPM. Almost like it's choked... hesitation, a bit of sputter, etc. Does not stall but does not respond immediately if I hit the gas. On occasion, after prolonged driving, the CEL pops on with a 33 code (O2 sensor). Once this occurs, she runs rougher and it seems like I have to try to keep it running although it never stalls. Obviously, the brain is trying to compensate for something and making it run worse. I can stop, clear the code and it runs fine for awhile. I do not think I am getting good mileage but that is expected if running rough. My temp reading stays barely above the bottom of the guage even when a 70 degree day running hard. Test readings: 2007 test: CO% .62 (limit is 5.4) --- HC ppm 283 (limit 537) --- NO ppm 851 (limit 7380) --- 14.7% dilution at 1897 RPM 2008 test: CO% 20.55 --- HC ppm 882 --- NO ppm 234 --- 17.5% dilution at 1842 RPM ----> RESULT... FAILED In addition, the O2 sensor threw a code during the test. So... based on the FSM, I tested the O2 sensor circuit and got good voltage on the appropriate pins. When I tested the resistance across pins a and c (at temp) I read 4 ohms. Spec range is 3 to 1000 ohms. (anyone know what a new one reads? Is it on the low end or high end of range?) These readings lead me to believe that the O2 sensor is good and it truely is detecting something like it should. I pulled my disty cap and preplaced it with my old one that had no issues passing inspection before I swapped the motor. I replaced the rotor in the disty with my prior one as well. Again, the old motor never failed inspection. I pulled the plugs and noticed the electrodes were burnt down so I replaced all 6 plugs with NGK's as recommended inthe FSM. side note, make sure you blow all the mud and crap out of the plug holes before removing your plugs. Mine sat in caked dirt halfway up the insulator. I checked the resistance of each plug wire and they are well within spec. I checked to see if I had good spark and found that it could easily jump a full inch from the plug to the intake manifold I was using as ground. With that much spark, I should be able to run with virtually no electrode or arm on my plugs. Replaced the plugs anyway. I pulled my air filter and shook it. About a half cup of crud fell out. I blew out the intake and air box and replaced with a new filter. She seemed to run better after that so I sent it back in for a retest 2008 test: CO% 21.54 --- HC ppm 699 --- NO ppm 684 --- 17.7% dilution at 2716 RPM ----> RESULT... FAILED Obviously there is something that has failed that is causing increased CO and HC readings. I thought that running rich would only increase one of these but I forget which and could certainly be wrong. I don't want to start replacing parts at a hundred bucks a shot and hope to happen upon the failed component so I am looking for real and knowledgeable information which would lead me to a solution. Who's the former nissan techie in here? The mechanics of the O2 sensor are that it compares exhaust gas with outside air to make a determination of problem. Even though my test readings are good, could it be that the O2 sensor hasn't liked being submerged and caked in mud many times? It was also suggested that my eng temp sensor could cause the ECU to run differently (change spark advance etc?) and may also explain the low temp reading. again... I don't wanna just throw new parts in until it works. If you have any knowledge of this type of situation and can steer me in the right direction for a solution, I'd certainly appreciate it. Thanks

yea.. with a caR50, I'd put heavy odds that she's toast.

hehehe. forgot about that.