k9sar

I'm having a hellofatime racking up experience. Can't make it past one trail (stop once and get disabled) and it's only 1 or 2 past the horse one. Spend most of my time with my rig busted and my arse in jail for getting caught stealing or breaking someone else out. that and I'm in the hospital a lot cause I apparently can't attack a level 1 with a frigging chainsaw without him stabbing me once and sending me to the hospital

don't forget to upgrade to cross-drilled ventilated brake lines and matching rotors

so how'd you level-up so quickly Simon?

isn't that just bottled urine? cut out the middleman

yea yea... a likely story

holy postwhore!!! whats with the dups MZ?

damned land mines... you'd think they would have cleaned up the grounds by now.

faulty O2 will cause it to run kinda crappy which could be picked up by the knock sensor. It seems fairly common that they run in pairs. Always solve the first code first, then reset the ECU and see what pops up next (if anything)

Well ain’t that nice.

I give mine enough time for the oil pressures (engine and tranny) to come up and then I go. As far as oil, I am suspicious about someone who writes that 10W30 is berrer and uses the justification that they have used it without any problem. Guess what... I use 5w30 in mine. Thinner is easier to pump in the cold and more likely to get to the valves quickly. I switched to 20W50 in my honda because I was burning a little oil and had a small leak. The thicker oil lasted longer cause it didn't leak as fast. If I recall correctly, there is a diagram underhood with the reco oil based on your most common weather.

rats... I missed that. COME ON O2 sensor... crap out for me

did you check your codes?

I call code 33. anyone else want in on the pool?

but Simon doesn't rub the truck against 'twigs', does he.

to set it correctly... yes. to set it adequately, a screwdriver and a small hammer tap sideways works just fine.

agree on the rotor info. unscrew then it should come off. Be careful not to drop the bearing. Look in the FA section of the Factory Service Manual for details. If you don't want to replace your front axles, you can buy split boots but I have never used them.

check the resistance of your coil wire. Too high and that will inhibit good spark. It's quite possible that the metal clippy thing inside the boot has broken away from the wire core and you do not have good contact. I think you have pretty much narrowed it down to the spark. When you got your weak spark, was it on a plug connected to a plug wire? You can pop a plug directly on the coil wire (take the distributer completely out of the diagnostic loop) and check again. If that is weak, you might consider swapping your coil wire with the plug wire that you already pulled and see if you get good spark through that wire (coil - through sparkplug wire - to plug grounded on block. if you don't use a plug to check, you can put a screwdriver in and hold the edge near a ground point. Spark should easily jump a quarter inch or so. careful though... they can bite.

with a resistivity meter bwahaahaaa an Ohm meter.

sounds like he's selling the stuff he has laying around in order to get money to refund people. or he's just a prick

basic internal combustion engine operation: Needs air Needs fuel Needs fire Needs them all at the right time start easy... check air filter, if completely clogged, replace. Temporarily remove and see if it tries to start Pull a plug (number 1 would be a good choice). Look at the electrode. Is it wet with gas? If not, you have a fuel problem. The only time it should be dry is if the engine is running or has recently run and is still warm. Cranking it over without starting should get fuel in the cylinders. While the plug is out, lay the base against a good ground point and crank it over. Should see a nice bright spark to the electrode. If it dim/orange/weak, the problem may be the plug or the coil. If you have air, fuel and fire, now check your timing. Pop the dist cap and look at the position of the rotor in relation to the location of plug wire 1. Carefully insert a long screwdriver or chopstick into the plug 1 hole. Crank the engine by hand until the indicator (stick or screwdriver) is at the topmost travel. Your rotor should be at or just past either the number 1 spot or off 180 degrees.

damn! You found us out.

spend your money on a NOS sticker instead. They provide much more hp!

the only mpg benefit you will receive will be from the lighter load you carry in your wallet.

88's having hosting issues. I'm sure he's working it.

hey GG... is yours an auto or manual?