k9sar

Here's mine before the JGC/T-bar lift stock on 31's

sorry... mine has 31" BFG AT/KO's

I picked up a cupholder at a garage sale for a few pennies. Once mounted (I'm lazy), it will be on the passenger side of the console. It is about 4" x 4" x 3/4" when folded and flips open into a nice little cup holder.

*smirk* well heck then... it must be true!

the metal was fine. There's a white(ish) plastic mounting thingy that the speaker screws into. I had to enlarge the entire opening (via dremel) by about 1/8 inch all around. That allowed the flange on the speaker to fit flat (if the magnet didn't hit the back of the casing. so... a little torch and some reshaping and there is now room for the magnet.

I threw a pair of sony clearance speakers from Walmart into my fronts. Had to trim the plastic mounting adapter a bit to fit the rim and I heated and bulged teh back out to make room for the magnet.

didn't we have a thread like this a few years ago? anyway, I was the president and team leader of a Canine (K-9) Search and Rescue organization in southern New Mexico. We were known by the department of public safety and the border patrol as Border K-9 Search and Rescue, inc. I believe that the organization disbanded or merged into DACSAR (Dona Ana County Search and Rescue a few years after I moved back to the east coast. I bought my pathy out there to use in SAR missions since my accord couldn't handle the terrain or the animals and gear.

it sure would be exciting if you got it backwards

oh yea.... swap plug 6 whiel the engine is out.

if your memory sucks or if your swap is going to take more than a couple days, I reco the following: Each set of bolts you pull should be put in a sandwich bag and labled. Pay special attention to variations in size (like the water pump bolts) that can cause problems is not put back in the right hole quick digital pics of things before you pull the apart could help get it all back in place at the end (vac lines etc) don't forget the top bolt or two (hard to get at) holding the bell housing to the engine. get a variety of extensions and at least 2 u-joints for your sockets. and ... most important... if you get stuck... get your arse on here and ask. Lots of us have done it.

I've just used a breaker bar and thrown a screwdriver throught he cam sprocket hole and braced on the head. Of course, if you t-belt slips, it's kinda useless to try that.

the MAF mounts on the side of the pipe that runs from the aribox to the intake. it's on the outside on the drivers side of the intake (as opposed to the radiator side)

haven't done it yet myself (my interior is still to nice to play U-boat) but if I recall, it involves unbundling part of the harness and the only splicing is for a ground wore that needs to be longer if you put it in your glove box. Correct me if I'm wrong ... or.... wait for it.....

deja vu

there are 4 connectors all hooked on a post. take a look at page EL-88 for the wiring harness that connects to the injectors and the main harness. The wire that goes to the under-intake injectors runns under the intake between the second and third intake port (from the front). he meat of the harness lies along the coil side and not under the intake. the common for the injectors runs through connector 102E and the individual lines through 101E (then to the ecu via the main harness and connector 70M the other 2 connectors are 104E/57M which is the mainly the EGR sh!t and 103E/69M which is the IACV-AAC valve

I have a full set of injectors from my 95 that I have laying around from when I did my engine swap. They were working fine when I pulled the motor. Lemme know if you determine that you have a bad one and I'll see what we can arrange.

yea.. start with page EF-EC 108 in the 1994 FSM

I swore by silikroil but it's gotten too difficult to find locally. I can pickup PB at the local parts store but I'm not a fan of it being aerosol

mine took almost 3/16 under each bolt before it was consistently good. trial and error on the amount but the repair method is sound.

I have the 99 but I need to know your serial number (it's on the VIN plate). If yours is the earlier, I can obtain that FSM for you This Service Manual is applicable for 1999 model years vehicles beginning with serial No. 350001~. The serial No. is shown on the Vehicle Identification Number plate.

there's a loop that the hatch catches when closed. Remove the floor trim in the rear (carefully unscrew the plastic screws from the spreading inserts) and lift it out. If you need to break those f'ing little things, you can pickup replacements at almost any auto parts store or in the specialty drawers at Home depot or Lowes. Once you have the trim off, take out the 2 12mm bolts that hold the 'loop' in the little trough that it lives in. Put a couple washers uner the damned thing and bolt it back on. You can play with the depth front to back a little but make sure you have good left to right alignment. Test close the hatch then grab the wiper arm (at the base) and give a good tug to see if your light comes on. If no... pull a little harder. If still no, you should reinstall your trim (a little trimming may be necessary for clearance). If the light still comes on, add another washer and play with the front to back until you get a good tight latch. I had to tweak my bumpers on my hatch as well to ensure a tight hold so the door didn't rattle around. I can post pics if you need.

the filter is inside. If you remove the pan, you should see it

grey sludge is normal grey fuzz is bad chunks is really bad

push the buttons to release the hinge part... flip the whole thing up to about 60 degrees or so and then slide sideways (there are sideways pins)

and don't forget to pull your codes