k9sar

shame you had to settle for an R50. Welcome back anyway.

hmmm... maybe bolt it on the topside of my skid plates. I'll have to take a look and see what kind of room I have there

Ok, so I'm finally gonna get off my lazy butt and do some more work on my truck. I have a dual relo kit to install and I have seen a couple of options for mounting locations. Engine bay over the wheel well seems to involve making a snazzy bracket to mount it over the connector set that lives there. I know Slick put hers under the fender but I was wondering how much clearance you have in full left steer and tuck while rock climbing. also, it's much more exposed to rock and mud flinging off the wheels. so... Anyone else mount a dual relo? where'd ya put yours? any pros or cons to your decision?

I need to hit the JY later this week or early next. If I see a cap, I'll snag it for ya.

I didn't see an indication os a pressure test port on the fuel rail but that doesn't mean it's not there. You're in luck though (unlike my Dodge). Your fuel pressure regulator is NOT in your fuel tank. It looks to be right out there on top of your intake manifold. you should be able to pop the fuel lines off (release the pressure first) and test it. You should be able to throw between 34 and 45 psi into the regulator before it allows flow through. If less than 34, it's shot and there is not enough backpressure for your injectors to work 9the regulator is downstream from the injector set)

The fuel rails run under your intake manifold on top of each cylinder head. As for strong spark.... bright is good, wimpy reddish is weak. Chances that all your plugs are shot at the same time is not likely. I'm not sure what your ignition ssytem is like with respect to coil, distributer, etc but I know I did fix a jeep with a small flat stone when we were out wheeling one time. The contacts in the distributer had deposits built up on them and the top of the rotor was not making good contact with the dist cap. A little filing and the slight bending of a contact plate and she fired right up. I have a FSM for the 99's... I'll go take a look to see if you have a pressure test port on your fuel rail. A dry plug could be due to no fuel or good spark (burns it but at wrong time) but I would suspect sputtering if you had any combustion. I'm leaning toward the fuel delivery system. Perhaps the pressure regulator is shot and you are just backflowing gas to the tank and not holding enough pressure to run the injectors. ... heading off to my cache of FSM's to find the 99.5.....

That was my thought and why I trimmed the pigtails off with a grinder. Aaron, however, believes that you can heat it sufficiently with a torch to where you can bend the pigtail and not heat the rest of the coil as to impact the strength. If you look at the pathy springs, the last coil closes the gap to the previous and makes a nice flat surface. With the pigtail cut on a jeep coil, that end sticks out (longwise) and does not sit real nice in the rubber boot on the pathy suspension (though it isn't going anywhere anyway). If I were to heat the tip of the spring, I would bend it out and down to make a better seat. In theory, it should work but I just chose the other method.

but the ford coils are shorter I believe. here's the thread with info on the springs... LINKY

engines basically need only 3 things.... air, fire and fuel... al at the right time. Check each thing for the basics first. Do you have fuel? If you can't test the pressure int eh line, crank a few times then pull a plug and see if it's wet with fuel or dry. Chances are that it's not the air that's the problem. Typically, those issues cause poor running, not non-starting. Other is spark. Now that you have a plug out, ground it against the block somewhere and crank a couple times to see if you have spark. If all 3 present, now go into the next level of diagnostics... is tha spark strong? Is the fuel pressure high enough for the injectors? is the timing f-d up for some reason? Does your brain have the spark advanced so far due to a bad sensor that it doesn't fire at the right time? There are fairly simple things that you can check before throwing time and money into replacement parts that you may or may not need. Good luck

if you're going to the junkyard, take a pair of calipers with you and measure the wire diameter. Most junkyard jeeps I found had the FJ or .52(I think) springs. .58 or .60 will give even a 4-door with a tire carrier about 3" of lift. As for the pigtail, it'll be obvious how far you need to cut them back. Aaron mentioned heating and bending them out to the 4" diameter so that may be another option and give you a better surface to seat on the boots

My vote is simple.... Thorleys are definately better.... but I got a set of pacesetters at less than half the price of the thorleys. Many other things on a 12 year old truck to spend the dollars on.

ummm... Simon, you still drive a WD21, right? Can we add a button?

MAF, O2, clogged Cat, plugs, fuel filter, gremlins... could be any of these. Fortunately, most are repairable with moderate mechanical skills and a little cash. If the frame will hold up, it's a steal at that price. Maybe drop another couple hundred into it and it'll pay off. Good luck

I posted a starter solution a few months ago. Intermittent starting etc. Tracked down to some connection between the ig switch and the starter. Bypass wire installed and no issues since. Might be worth searching for that thread since I forget where it is.

yes... 33 is O2 sensor

true... I guess I should read with my eyes open. Been a freaking long week.

codes man... get the codes! You pathy WANTS to tell you what's wrong.

of course, in a few month or so when you notice your seals leaking, you'll wish you would have done them whileyou had it apart. oh... and I haven't done mine either... on either engine.

ummmm... take a look at General Topics -> The Garage -> How To's and open the one that says "Ecu self-diagnostics for 87 - 95 pathfinder" make sure you follow the VG30E instructions and make a note of where your dial is set BEFORE you turn it fully clockwise. Once you clear your codes and turn the key off, you'll want to put the dial back to it's original position/

you don't need a code reader for the 95. Look in the stickies for how to read the codes then let us know what it says. Also, check the connection on your MAF. If you have a loose or broken wire in the connector, it'll run like crap.

I still have mud on my passenger side dashboard from the noreaster trip.

I may have to keep an eye on you sammy... my 95 auto is starting to act.... funny. had it rebuilt a while back but I've been abusing it.

Nice match and looks good (if it were in a BMW ) I'm with Pezzy though... woodgrain is not my preference and mud is easier to ... hmmm... "keep clean" just doesn't sound right..

craziest leak I ever tracked down was a pinhole leak on the top side of my oil filter. Would only leak when engine was running and drip would run down the seal for the filter. I could have sworn it was the seal on the filter but I was under it while it was running and I spotted the droplet.

the oil pan is at the bottom so anything leaking above it will run/drip down. best suggestion is to wipe everything clean (well... not everything. pan edge, filter, under sending unit, around valve covers, wherever you see oil/gunk) and then feel around after 10 min or so of running and see where there is oil. If it's running from somewhere, you should be able to locate it. Rear main seal leaking usually shows at bottom of bell housing. Sending unit leak is usually on the pan Filter leak is usually on the pan valve cover leak could go just about anywhere.