k9sar

good deal. My pathy gets tempermental until I hit mud puddles. damndest thing. At the NorEaster, it ran like crap after the first day at Rausch Creek until I got to Paragon and hit the first puddle. CEL went out and she ran like a champ all day. My gal just likes to get dirty I guess.

mechanical

I only needed to move 2 splines. A little goes a long way

I'm flying through Atlanta on Saturday. I can check my layover time if you want to try to do this in the airport parking lot those look to be the right length and number of coils. I have no way of determining wire diameter from the pic. You will need to deal with the the pigtails (heat/bend or cut thm off) or they won't fit. As far as the front, you should lift the front to level it out. cranking/reindexing the t-bars is an acceptable way to do this. I'm sure that if you want to spend the money, you could go with new UCA's and ball joints etc.

ummmmm no. Unless the starter is engaged with the flywheel at all times, which it isn't, this will not work. The hammer solution may vibrate it enough to rotate it off a bad spot or knock the brush dust away to allow a better connection but the engine will NOT move the starter. Also, you need not remove the starter to 'bench' test it. Check that you have 12V on the big red wire. That should be constant hot. IF so, you can energize your coil with a jumper cable from the battery or the red wire. If you have a seperate post on the starter itself that leads from the solenoid, you can bypass that and throw 12V directly tot he starter motor. IF it cranks the engine and scares the hell out of you since you're under it and are probably elbows-deep in the engine, you're starter is probably not the problem.

mine was not nearly that easy.

doesn't sound right. you're looking for a grand cherokee v-8 or an up-country suspension upgrade. If there is a paper tag on the springs and it's green or reads FJ, NO GOOD Best way is to take a caliper (measurement, not brake) with you. The coils you want are 17 inches long (fairly standard for the JGC's), a 4" coil diameter (with a pigtail at the top (again, fairly standard) and anything better than a .50" wire diameter. The thicker the better. here... I'll make it easy. I posted this at rear spring option thread I used the .560 springs in my 4-door and got a nice 2" or so lift from it. If you dig around on the web, you can also find a list of how to read teh VIN from a jeep and be able to determine the suspension package from the code. That's how I narrowed down which vehicle to look at. Even though you might find an inline-6 jeep, it may have an upgrade that provided the heavy springs. Here's another link for a thread for my lift poor man's lift pics are on the cardomain page from the first post.

no. if you do a search through the forums and find the years etc for the JGC coils, you will find that they are 17" long like the pathy springs. they are just beefier and do not compress under the weight of the vehicle as much. Then I just cranked up my t-bars to level it out.

they relock if they do not fully unlock. It's just like if you have them unlocked and push down on the post and all the doors lock. lost of posts on how to fix the problem but mine was simple. I pulled the inner panels and the vapor barriers and blasted some wd40 in around all the linkages inside the doors. work fine now.

I recently pulled the studs from my old heads. Short side in and log side to go through manifold and accept nut. but... whatever fits.

check your voltages at the starter and solenoid.

I think they were 12mm and they weren't torqued super tight. Mine came off with a simple rachet and a little elbow grease

I'll defer the credit to my old man. He's the one who did the troubleshooting on the neighbors pathy. All I did was provide the schematics, moral support and post the results. glad to hear you're rolling again

so... at 11pm last night, in 12 degree windy weather, I finally have the opportunity to tackle this issue. I tried the lever again, just in case, no dice. So I opened the hatch and popped the access door, removed my 'supplies' (I keep gloves, rags, rope, etc in there) and found the gadget that the cable goes to. There, in front of me is a nice shiney mechanism where the ball of the cable attaches. So, I hook it with my finger and try to pull it, effectively taking the cable out of the equation cause I'm thinking that's where the problem is. ouch. not a good enough grip. So, I loop a cable tie through it and gett a really good grip. Something's moving! It's the metal piece bending out of the mechanism rather than pullign and retracting the catch. Damn! So, I unclip the cable and pull it out. Cable appears to be working fine. Only one solution left. So I go in the garage and get a flat prybar and open the gas door. So I have some reshaping to do, but it's open. I reach in to test the latch and it doesn't budge. I notice some ice behind it and realize that water had run into the gas cap area and frozen. I remove the latch mechanism and take it inside and throw it on the counter, say a few choice words, then force the latch pin into the housing by banging it on the counter. now it won't come back out. sheesh! I grab a Mike's and park on the couch to watch some tv and about 15 minutes later, I hear a 'pop'. I look over and the latch is out. I pick it up and the thing moves freely now. I look down and there is a puddle. I guess water had leaked past the rubber seal and into the spring and frozen. Dare I reinstall it before spring? Still tryign to decide.

I thought it was fairly easy. You should realign if you crank your t-bars but I don't think the ride height of the rear will effect your front alignment significantly enough to worry about if at all.

the problem isn't outward pressure. The little latch thingie isn't retracting to let the door open.

so I go to fill up my tank before the weekend. I've been running on empty and getting annoyed at that little orange "you need gas, you idiot" light on the dash. I pull in, reach down beside the seat and puch the little lever to pop the little door over the gas cap. nothing. go out and bang on the door (it's been frozen closed before). It flexes and moves such that it is obvious that it's the little release mechanism that is not releasing. DAMNIT! anyone know of a graceful way to open this thing without using a frucking prybar? oh... and I added a new dent to my fender today as I plowed out the driveway (sans plow) and clipped my garbage can, launching it halfway up into the lawn. what a day.

lifters stuck... broken manifold studs... could be a few things

My parents neighbor had a problem that might be related. turns out, through troubleshooting voltages, there was a voltage drop between the ignition switch and the inhibitor relay. Bad wire or connector in main harness. They ran a new wire, bypassing the old one. I'll get the write-up from him and post it

lots of torque at full droop might bind at the CV joints and blow them out.

I work with some real idiots

eewwwww... wipe that up

I can open a locked vehicle with a racquetball. 1. cut a dime sized hole in a racquetball 2. to a cup of dry portland cement, add enough water to mix to a 'wet sand' consistency. 3. pack the racquetball with with the cement mix 4. Let harden/dry for a few days 5. approach the locked vehicle with the racquetball in hand 6. Pretend you're Roger Clemens and throw the ball as hard as you can through the side glass

I stole mine