k9sar

also... that crap needs to be added to a full tank (or added then the tank filled). If your tank was low, you're running too wierd of a mixture

first thing is to check your ECU for error codes (search for it ). It definately sounds like a fuel problem and could be the fuel pressure, filter or possibly the injectors. The VG30 will run on 3 cylinders if you let it (not well but it will) so the chance of 3 or more injectors going out at the same time is unlikely. how'd it run before you put the gumup in it? Any chance you used th wrong stuff for the wrong application? Have you checked your MAF? You can pop the hood, have someone start it and you can wiggle the wire/connector on the MAF to see if it makes a difference. If it runs rough always as opposed to running ok for a little the dying, maybe it's the timing. There are a few things to check but first is the ECU. Keep us posted as to what you find and we can continue the diagnostics and hopefully help others who may have similar issues

wow... someone revived this thread

canola oil would be a nice alternative to coke

yes. look on page 1 for the ebay search. I think there are a couple that show up

I'll have to try that when I do the drivers side

the hardest part was seperating the tie-rod. I couldn't seperate the ball joints so I just unbolted then from the control arms.

front axle? easy. I just did mine 58 bucks from the parts store and about 2 hours of work. linky

I think that's my problem. I was gonna throw 32's on but my rims won't handle them. I'll have to go with 33's, keep my rims and drop some change on a body lift for clearance

I try to run in 2wd when I'm wheeling. If I can't make it, I click into 4

I use the gas pedal. never been stuck on the hitch yet.

there's a lot to be said for being able to get out of a snow drift by staying nice and warm and dry and just throwing a lever. Would suck to have to crawl out, dig down and freeze my fingers locking my hubs. of course, the first time I blow apart my autos, I'll change my story

the searching wasn't too bad. The dogs did most of the work. Body recovery never got interesting though.

don't F-up your radiator trying to get at them

former. I led a k9 SAR team for about 3 years while I lived in New Mexico.

I have one off my 95 that I'm not using since I bought the black panthers. What's your location so we can give you estimates on shipping etc.

ROFL Mr. P! Your terminals are nicely attached using heat shrink sleving. I should post a pic of mine.... they used masking tape. not electrical tape, MASKING TAPE!!!

FSM

I have a 95. I'll pop out at lunch and look for you. ok... my switch is installed with the indicator light on the uphill side and the diagram on the downhill. there are 4 terminals. Holding the switch in position (but above the slot), the wires are: uphill passenger side - Purple downhill passenger side - Yellow uphill drivers side - Green downhill drivers side - open (no wire) hope this helps

my point dealt more with the 'qualified mechanic' rather than the actual suspension. I checked the play in all the joints and found that my drivers side lower ball joint was out of spec with respect to the amount of play in it. Actually, it kind-of rattled around rather than trying to point upright. That was MUCH cheaper than replacing the C-link which was 'just a guess' from the mechanic though they'd be more than willing to replace it for me for a price.

...

steering column cover needs to come off

My local shop (while doing an inspection) had told me that my centerlink was bad and needed replaced. I asked him how a big-ass metal bar can be bad (unless it was bent) and he just stammered until he finally said that there was too much play in the suspension and it could be ball-joints, t-rods, etc. What an idiot. I crawled under, wiped down the centerlink with a greasy rag (made it nice and shiney) then took it back. it passed. sheesh!

got mine

boo! hiss! sorry guys, I can't agree with you on this one. should be a good game though.