k9sar

it almost sounds like your ignition switch is bad and it thinks you have your key turned to the 'ON' position even after the key is removed. Is it just the pre-startup dash warning lights or are there other things on like the radio, pwr windows, etc? I have a WD21 but the ignit sw would be my first place to look. Good luck and certainly keep us posted as this sounds like a new problem to the forums and your solution could be of help to others.

poke a small hole in the top of the upper rad hose to let the air escape. ok... no, don't do it that way. There should be a bleed point that looks like a bolt head with a little tube (1/8 in) on top. I think Slick posted a pic of it once.

so can a hammer

the problem is not that your alarm system is self arming. That is actually a feature which is activated by you locking all the doors and closing them. After 30 sec or so, the alarm will activate. The problem you seem to be having is that the doors are self locking (the alarm system won't do that). Could be a problem with the locking mechanism (see several posts on the lock fluttering issue) and it could trigger when bumped or with air pressure change or other insignificant event if it's on the hairy edge of locking anyway. Could also be a problem with your keyless entry. I have found that, if I wear my brown hacket, it builds up a static charge and triggers my keyless entry if my keys are in my pocket. Other coats don't do that.. strange. Try to catch it happenning or look for your door locks not being up completely when you unlock the door. It may take some time but you can probably narrow down the conditions in which it occurs. Good luck

read the thread. You need to pop open the passenger side and lube the linkages. If that doesn't fix it, you might have a broken piece and it's a bitch to work inside the door. Try the easy fix first.

Home Depot?

it's nice to know that we are contributing to the uneducation of america :-)

I put 5x7's in mine. Had to go with a set of Alpines and made a modification to the plastic housing for the speakers so they would sit in it better and I had to slightly move the 4 mounting holes on the speaker so it would fit also. Dremmel, file, lighter (to heat the back of the plastic and bow it out to fit the speaker magnet) and a little rewiring due to the location of the lugs. no problem!

There is talk of a yellow plastic thingie that gets broken but in my 95, there was no such issue. The problem is that when you unlock it, the mechanism hangs up just enough to be close to the trigger point where the doors would lock if you just puched down on the post by the window. Any bump or even immediately, that circuit hits and auto locks. The solution is to remove the door panel and plastic barrier and gain access to the lock actuator and mechanish. Shove your hand in with a can of WD40 or a good long lasting silicone lubricant and spray away. trigger the lock up and down several times to make sure you get the full range of the mechanism, then put it back together. As for the door panel... there are a couple screws. pop your control box on the arm rest, pop the frame around the inner door handle, pop the little plug out of the inner door handle to gain access to a screw, look around for others around the door handle area. Then, insert a small flat-bar or wide screwdriver under the panel bottom and slide until you find the first holdign point. Pry gently and pull the panel. You will POP that clip. Work your way around (probably 8 or 9 of them). Unscrew the post for the door lock. Pull the panel out slightly and lift up to get the top out of the window groove (works best if the window is down an inch or so before doing this) Good luck. Let us know if you need more info. I have the FSM and have done the job already.

be aware of the tire size. I have found my 95 well adequate in the power department but would have some reservations if I were to run 35's on it. Might be a little under-powered on big tires.

what's your location? (not in your profile). Did you fix it yet? I have a spare if you're looking to save some $$

I recently pulled a window motor apart and cleaned the excess carbon dust from the coils and reseated the brushes. works like a champ now.

do some research at edmunds.com. You can find the standard options listed there

I'd suggest to stay the hell out of canadia. It smells funny up there and the inhabitants are hostile.

DAMN!!! And I was gonna make a set of sodium skid plates. Should be interesting hitting the puddles!

typically, be in D all the time unless you are putting a load on the engine. if you are going up a hill, you may be struggling with low RPM's. If so, either turn overdrive off or switch to the power setting. That will typically drop you to a lower gear and up your RPM's and torque. You should only really yse 1 and 2 if you need high RPM and SLOW speed. Crawling through loose sand, pulling a heavy load for a short distance or coming down a steep hill and not wanting to fry your brakes (you can use the engine in low gear to retard your decent) The POWER switch really doesn't give you any more power than you would typically have. It alters the shift pattern so that you will run at a higher RPM in each gear before the A/T shifts into a higher one.

notice the burned carpet padding. There's a thread in here somewhere about the incidint. towing a boat, up a long hill, got hot, had rust hole, caught fire, put it out, McGyver'd it back together with cookie sheet and caulking.

OEM part for an AT is 23710-85P18 OEM part for a MT is 23710-85P23 my guess is that there are differences in the programming or wiring

I think all the VG30E's use the same injectors. 94's are the same as 95's

just keep it off your hootus.

I've never found injectors very hard to remove. Just have to eliminate fuel pressure first or you spew gas all over the engine.

easy to tell if coming from top or bottom. lay a cookie sheet on the floor and make some hard turns. If your drain is blocked and you're sloshing, it should be evident.