k9sar

how about travel-booties for the dog(s) like the ones we used for rescure work. Thick rubber w/ velcro straps. Easy-on, easy-off. Take a bit for the dog to get used to wearing them but they'll keep teh interior from being scratched

:o

mine didn't work after the shop repaired the fender damage. Turns out that they didn't have the hose from the CC pump to the diaphragm connected.

I've seen a simple dual battery and jumper cable setup for field-welding as long as the welding rod is thin. Good enough to get you home but I wouldn't let it go much longer than needed before making a good strong fix

Glad we (the collective 'we') were able to help. Feel free to hang around and partake in sone holiday cheer

front drive axle and time to install it (and my headers, exhaust, oil filter relo kit, etc. that I have sitting in my garage)

this is my 3-legged dog (actully, she just likes sitting that way) and the old-lady of the house

and a little wire antenna

I agree. fix the simple first. If it continues to do funky things, pop back in and let us know and we can walk through some troubleshooting with you.

definately the pan. 2wd and 4wd are different

look around in the forums. If you're gonna tackle the exhaust studs, get the 300zx ones. They're stronger and I think the price is reasonable (if I recall correctly)

I have a set of pacesetters in my garage. haven't put them on yet but I reallocated a spare EGR tube from the boneyard and plan on adding an extension into mine to compensate for the lack of alignment. Not sure how much yet but I'm ready just in case I can't get the original to fit.

pull a plug and see if it's wet with gas. If so, your injector(s) are firing.

oh it most definately IS an interference engine. IF you crank the shaft by hand and put the timing mark at tdc, you could pull your number 1 plug and drop in a screwdriver then watch it's movement as you crank by hand. I'm sure there could me many other causes so I wouldn't go tearing the front of the engine apart yet. if your distributer died, you could still get spark but just not at the right time. When you are at TDC (or 5 degrees before), you cn also pull the dist cap and look at where the electrodes are. should be ready to fire on no 1

belt

timing?

I don't recall what's in the 92 but I have swapped my vg30e in my 95. My advice is to get teh engine and do a few 'rebuild' steps prior to doing the swap. Some items are a pain in the arse to get to when it's in. In my opinion, you should replace: timing belt water pump thermostat cam seals spark plugs (even if you just install #6) Also, I would obviously check the hoses for any signs of dry rot or cracking and replace if needed upper and lower radiator hoses fuel rail connection hose (3" long under intake manifold) make sure to tighten the clamps on this even if you don't replace it heater hoses etc. Give the new(er) one a good once-over before installing. Also, check the plastic parts around the EGR valve and intake manifold (rear right). This is an area they the idiots at the boneyards break while hoisting the engine out. Hope it goes well for you.

Mine's allergic to asphalt. She starts throwing engine codes and running like sh!t until I take her offroad and hit a few mud puddles.

hmmmm... I don't recall either. I know it's not listed in the FSM. maybe in the OM (mine is out in the truck and it's really cold out)

I always considered Pezzy a hardbody. Guess that makes Simon a SUV

as long as it's dry, I consider it 'undercoating'. a poor man's herculiner and it doesn't harm the hootus.

let's review... dude... that last word does not belong! the best way to show off a 4x4 is to get her as muddy as possible. Then, in no way, can you be confused with a mall-crawler

beware... there be vultures nearby

Look at your front drive axels also. I blew a CV joint and have the same symptoms

there goes my productivity