k9sar

sorry... just saw this. Look for the wiring diagram and you should see if there is a common relay or fuse. It wouldn't be any of teh door actuators cause they are independent. The other thing I would check is to pull the connector off the alarm control module and look for any broken or bent pins. There could be one that carries teh signal to the door controller or whatever teh mechanim is and it's not making connection. I'll look at my wiring diags when I get a chance. Mine is a 95, I'll have to look back or check your profile to see what year you need. Should be similar.

here ya go Slick

no way! I'm gonna take a pic when I go home tonight and post it. The we'll see whose motor is purdier

mine gets mistaken for a ford festiva (but then I hang around a bunch of drunkards)

JB, is it correct that your antenna was a fixed one rather than a telescoping power ant?

are they always that ugly purple color?

next page

ok... procedure is on pages EF-EC 135 and 136 of the FSM

how about a pair of offroad lights with red lenses pointing backwards and wired into your stoplight circuit (via relay of course).

not clear if this answers your question. I didn't see anything about an 'adjustment'

as for it's orientation on the intake,...

The throttle position sensor or the closed throttle position switch? actually, I think it's the same device (with 2 functions)

or maybe the secret service has intentionally sabotaged your CB in an attempt to electrocute you due to your political views

quick check of the power cord should be fairly easy. Open the case and find where the ground wire mounts to the circuit board. Test continuity from that point to the plug. open circuit is bad. Could be as simple as a broken wire in the plug (not too uncommon if people have unplugged it by pulling the wire rather than grabbing the plug)

not sure about the R50's but Matt here tried to roll his WD21. It was tippy but didn't go over.

you have + and - in the cig lighter but if your - in the CB or plug is bad, it'll ground through something else rather than the cig lighter. 'if' the case were metal, it'd be tied into the ground as well for safety. SOunds like you're not making your - connection at the plug

do you have schematics for the CB? almost sounds like they ground it through the antenna rather than the power cable hmm... if the case is grounded, and the antenna attaches to a place on the case, and the normal ground wire in the CB is bad, it may try to ground through the case and the antenna. Take off the antenna and do a continuity check between the case or antenna port and the negative on the power cable or plug. If you have an open circuit there, that's a problem. That could also explain why no power without the antenna (no ground, hence no electron flow )

not only did the year matter but so did the trim level and accessories. Standard on I6 JGC's were 'FJ' springs (.52 wd) which were very similar to the stock pathy springs. Take a look at my post here for more information with respect to available springs from JGC's http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18&st=60

here

maybe overheated teh exhaust manifolds and warped them enough to pop a stud.

better safe than sorry. Most of us work on our issues in our own driveways etc but if you're not in a convenient location and can spend the time to work on it, well... you did the right thing (though no brownie points for you)

keep us informed as to what you check and the results and we'll try to walk this through. good luck

jack up the front end to take the torque off the bars. Spin down the adjustment arms near the tail end of the vehicle. On your control arms, slide the boot off, wipe the area clean and mark the t-bar and attachment point so you know where it was. (I marked mine at the adjustment end but my t-bars slipped out at the c-arm end and I had a bitch of a time getting it back to where I needed it, spline-wise) Slip dust cover boot off adjustment arm end and wipe clean and mark this as well. Use a couple of big screwdrivers and a hammer to pop off the e-clip at the adjustment end. This should now allow you to move the t-bar backwards to slip the splines out of the socket. Rotate 1 spline (probably enough) and reinsert into socket. ROtation direction depends on the side you are on but you want the inner side of the t-bar to rotate towards the ground. Replace the e-clip. jack the front completely up to make it easier to get the sdjustment arm back together and tightened. note... if you offroad, I suggest tightening the t-bars so your adjuster is NOT hanging below the crossmember. Once tightened, lower the front end and see if it's the height you want. If not lifted enough, repeat procedure and go another spline. note... there was a fine line that I had to get in the jack height to take all tension off the t-bars and allow me to slip it easily out for adjustment. You may have to play with it a bit to get it out. If anyone had suggestions as to how to easily do it, post. Of course, you could just as easily remove the mount point on the c-arms. I think that's only 3 bolts each.

winrar I have most of the manuals (94 thru 200?) in pdf format. Can't host them due to size but they are available either by snailmail (cover postage) or other arrangements (not email though).