k9sar

the speakers in the doors have a rim of foam on them to help seal the grills from 'venting'. Likely that foam has disintegrated. Pop the door panel and take a look.

of you can get her up on 4 stands and put it in gear, you can see if the hubs are trying to lock or locking while in 2wd.

I've drilled out extractors using a small TC bit and basically burned my way through it. Must be sure there is no oil on it cause you want it to heat up and anneal (sp?) the extractor, making it softer such that you can get through it with the TC bit. Then use a normal drill, at low speed, to cut a new hole. Option then is to try to get the exact size and centering so you can pick out the stud threads from the head (not likely) or retap the thing.

even cheaper labor. IF you hang around here, you'll learn to do things yourself and save a lot of money. Also, lots of things can be repaired but shops typically just throw in a replacement (example is the calipers). I wouldn't give up on it just yet. Go ahead and make a backup plan (like knowing what to get next) then wait for the next catastrophic loss or major repair before making your decision to bail.

patience young jedi... we're trying. Not running can be interperated as a very severe idle problem. If RPM's wanna stay too low to sustain the running condition, you'll die. milking the gas will raise the RPMs and allow it to run but not well. If you can find someone local with a similar year vehicle, you would do well to see if you could borrow their ECU for a test. Check your pins, that's easy and any number of them could cause problems. we have not given up... I'm still looking into possiblities that won't cost you a ton of money to check.

got any u-pull-it yards in your area? I think mine charges something like $20 for one if they have it. Nissans are scarce around here. Not sur eif this might help but... The procs for troubleshooting an unstable idle (in the 94ish era VG30s) are: 1. check to see if your EGR valve is sticking 2. do a power balance test by disconnecting the connector at each injector one at a time and look for any that DOES NOT cause a momentary engine speed drop 3. check fuel pressure 4. check O2 sensor 5. check for air intake leak (clamp PCV hose and see if engine speed rises) 6. check idle adjustment screw clogging 7. compression test 8. check your ECM harness connection (look for bent pins etc) I actually had a bent pin problem which was causing a malfunction in my alarm system 9. try plugging in a known good ECM (borrow from a friend)

I believe that's normal. Maybe it just runs like crap cause if failsafe operations

squirrels

did it run worse when you unplugged the MAF? It sure should have. If you pulled the MAF and there was not change, there's your problem.

nice to hear that you got it fixed. I had to clean mine out when it started sounding like it was full of peanut shells... which it was.

my 95 suffered similar damage when I killed the jeep. They wanted to total it at about 3800 but that was based on a 70% of value (insurance pricks). I got the adjuster to come down on stuff and come in just abrely under the 'total' point then I had my body shop fix it and submit the supplimental bill tothe ins co. Total cost was over 5 grand but I got it back. Actual parts only ran about 1500, the rest was labor. I'm sure you could find a shop that would piece-out the work and do things as needed without doing the entire job. Example... Do all the removal yourself (saves on labor)... buy your own parts...take it in and have them weld on a new inner fender liner and straighten sh!t... the rest is bolt-on and you can do that yourself. Throw in a couple hundred dollar paint job (doesn't have to be graeat, it's 11 years old). You should come out with a fixed truck and a spare 2 grand in your pocket. If you opt not to... I need that stupid console hinge with the cupholders... mine broke. good luck.

if you were from San Fran...

post your pics. I'm in the process of fabbing a bracket to mount in teh bolt holes where that stupid wiring harness is and wrapping around to put the relo kit on top of it (moved the top zip-tie bundle down lower on the bracket. Should work but I'd like to see your solution.

I had thought of using street signs for skids. Double them up for thickness etc. Readily available.

is supposed to do what?

I could not remove the pan while the engine was in place. You may be able to remove the crossmenber and get it. Try first, then start disassembly

buying skidplates at walmart?

nope. Everything's there (as far as I can tell). Will be taking pics today of the 'before' and then starting on the painting. I think I've decided on "Quit laughing and roll me over" for a graphic on the skids.

my black panthers came from Canadia down into the US. 75lbs approx shipped for around $100 and showed up in less than a week.

all this talk about hummers....... nah.. nevermind. I decided not to comment.

does that actually remove it or just heat it up so the adhesive releases?

Keep teh address. If you find your way out this end of the country, let me know and maybe we can hook-up. Maybe I'lle ven get the wife to cook-up a bunch of crawdads and cornbread (that's all you LA folks eat, right?) Seriously though, lemme know when you're in town

HAHAHAHHA My wife just called and said that I received a very big and heavy package. She said that the box is torn and there is a piece of metal sticking out and asked if she should open it to see if anything was broken. Whaddya think Marcel... anything in the box fragile?

now... for paint... I think I lay down a good primer layer then flat black with bright yellow lettering that reads "Roll me over damnit!"

they should have. Not like the little neighbor kid is gonna walk away with it I'll give a call to my wife and see fi they left it on the porch or at the street (I've had things shipped where they simply took them off the truck and sat them on your property... good enough)