k9sar

I pulled my front diff to get more room. The bitch bolts were at the top of the tranny holding it to the engine. long socket extensions, a u-joint or 2 and some creative posturing and there's not much to it. Lose the front-of-the-engine crap like the fan, rad, alternator,etc to give yourself maneuverability and haul away!

I disagree on the pointlessness of the grill guards. I have sliced a Honda and killed a jeep with mine. Although they don't protect much at high speed, they do extend the support of the bumper up to the top of the hood for minor impacts. If you run into something higher than your bumper, at least you have a chance of survival. Without it, your grill and probably radiator are toast. with that said... I would also reco getting skids or a lift before worrying about a grill guard.

we know

shock adjustment. stays in middle and sets shocks according to which side you depress. Sport will stiffen the ride while Comfort or Touring will soften it.

we're here if you need us. good luck!

I use the t-belt to hold the crankshaft. I install the lower t-belt cover, then throw a screwdriver through a hole in the cam sprocket and brace it on the head. Then I can tighten the pulley on the crank cause the t-belt will hold it tight enough for you to get the 90 to 95 ft-lbs of torque ont he crankshaft pulley bolt. as for the overhang on the sprockets... there is a crank pulley plate that fits over the lower sprocket and keeps it in place behind the crankshaft pulley. I think the upper belt cover also acts as a guide for the t-belt but I have always seen the belt riding completely on the cam sprockets.

I remember also. Someone added a 'loft' in the back of the pathy to carry things like tow straps, first aid, etc. Can't recall who though. If I get ambitious, I'll try searching.

Dear Slick... read his sig. He's in Oregon. Shipping of heavy parts from there would definately be cheaper than from way out east here.

I have a local dealer who does a lot of online sales. He runs a discount on the parts but makes up for it on shipping. Fortunately, he lets me place my order and tag it as a no-ship. Then I pop into the parts dept to pick it up, already paid and with the discount.

amen to that! I love those things (except when the grip between the rubber and the plug is greater than the grip between the extension and the socket)

I should go out and buy me a set of Champions :D :D

I recommend THESE

I put over 100,000 on my original plugs with no issues. I'm on my second set of NGK generics now. I figure one more change in about 50-75K miles will then last me the remaining years. of course... I'm a cheapskate

this is the obvious solution... Kalecoauto Check out their other products. I just ordered the hollow plug wires.

I don't think you'll ever fully understand Dave.

my thoughts exactly. I thought my new starter was shot when I tried that and got nothing. Installed it anyway and it worked. Must be something funky going on inside. maybe an interlock of some kind in the starter itself, who knows. If I didn't have to turn my old one back in, I'd have gutted it. oh... and sorry for the post hijack. Let us know what you find with your 94.

we're not picking on you Josh, we're just all laughing at those types of products (like the hair-dryer turbo charger or the vortex airflow crap). Add it to the cross-drilled brake lines and blinker fluid list.

battery to jumper cable to starter. starter to jumper cable to ground.

My father is a retired physicist. I mailed him the link. His reply....

I tried to bench test my starter before installing it (and the one I took out) I thought that just throwing 12V across the leads bypassing the solenoid would get her to spin-up. Nothin on either the old or new. I even sketched out the electronics and mechanics to see shy it SHOULD work. Never quite figured out how to bench test it but when I threw the new one in and connected it normally, it worked great. I'm still scratching my head a little on this one. Perhaps a good writeup on how to bench test a starter would be in order (but don't look at me to write it)

just don't paint the damned thing purple!

the spark serves only one purpose... to ignite the fuel. Big spark, little spark, harmonically tuned supersonic backtwisting double lutz spark, it doesn't friggin matter as long as it't therer and enough to ignite the fuel. What we need is CONSISTENT spark. Failure to spark causes less horsepower, worse fuel economy, lousey emissions, etc. now... with that said... putting magnets on your fuel lines to align the electrons and cause better flow through the system.... THAT'S SCIENCE! :)

intake manifold gasket should be fine cam plate gaskets just retain grease so should also be fine water pump... the gasket goes between the wp and teh block. The other things are rubber seals that are probably stuck on your lower timing belt cover. The rubber coated sticks... I recall seeing them and reused mine. Smeared a little RTV on them first but I don't recall if they are any more than a dust protector hot-air pickup.... might be to run to your EGR valve. Drivers side?

yea... but mine broke and the JY's have none. Also, I hate hitting my elbow on my cup as I drive.

HAHAHAH friggin tag-lites. I had one out as well. I've established a good relationship with the guy who runs the local shop where I go and he just passed it and said to make sure I pop into walmart or somewhere and replace the light. I bring him lots of business because of his work ethic. In PA, as soon as you drive off the property, they can charge you for a full inspection even if you are just bringing it back 20 minutes later after replacing a buned out bulb. This guy will tell you what's wrong and as long as you get back in a reasonable amount of time, he won't recharge you. When I had my exhaust stud problem, he failed it and I took it back nearly a month later and he didn't charge me for a second inspection. gotta love it!