k9sar

I'm amazed at all the people who are complaining about rust. I have a 95SE and I NEVER wash it. The only rust I have is through the drivers side floor pan and a small bit near the edge of the back door. I've been under the truck many times and have yet to see rust issues. and yes, I'm in the northeast.

if you are getting water on the passenger floor from your AC, it's probably your drain tube clogged with crud. You can either pull it apart from the inside or crawl under it, grab the tube and blow hard. Problem with the second is that all you will manage to do is dislodge it temporarily. Open the blower and clean your drip tray out.

I had a fleeting thought that it was a reverse-thread bolt. I just checked mine and it's normal.

wedge something (wood) between the belt and one of your cam sprockets. When I did mine, I removed the valve cover so I could lay a big-ass screwdriver through the cam sprocket and on the head. I am shocked if you could break a screwdriver that way. If you can get the belt to be tight (clamp, wedge, etc) so it won't slip, there should not be an issue. Are you turning it the right way? (never hurts to ask)

I stopped worrying about scratches long ago. but.... if you discover a good approach to removing them on plastic, please post it so that others who visit these boards may benefit from your experiences. now... I'm gonna go throw a load of firewood in the back of my pathy just for the hell of it

PM'd ya.

Use a Craftsman screwdriver. They'll replace it if you break it

perhaps your sending unit went bad. perhaps you have a bad connection to the cluster

well... I'd crawl under mine and look but there's a skid plate and about a bucket-load of mud in the way. I have one in the garage but the covers are already off (and Slick got the funny special bolt from it). Maybe it'll show me something there. I'll take a look when I get home.

not sure about the 93's but I thought they were teh same VG30E as in the 94's/95's. If so, this diagram applies:

a common problem is that the bolts that hold the timing cover on are different lengths. If you get them mixed up, you could cause interference. the bolt circled simply looks to eb one to hold the lower timing cover on.

are you looking for how to attach the console to the floor or are you looking for how to attach the cupholders, lid and shelf insert into the console?

are these the Pathy OEM numbers or the ones for the 300Z?

before tearing into the MAF and cleaning it, have someone nurse the thing to keep it running and wiggle the wires/connectoors on top of the MAF to see if it makes a difference. Sounds EXACTLY like my symptoms and I discovered a broken wire in the connector.

many "magic oil leak fix" products have a chemical designed to swell the rubber seals. Over time, these degrade, shrink, become hard etc. The additive puffs up the rubber and temporarily seals better.

oh yea... and a bad O2 can throw off your mixture and cause rough running but mine has always thrown a 33 when the O2 goes flakey

I get 14 to 18 mpg but the only time I ever killed a half tank in only 70 miles was on my last offroad trip. Anyway, is there an EGR valve on these? yea, I have a 95 but it's out in the parking lot and I don't remember. My van had similar symptoms and it was due to a clogged EGR valve. Just a thought. Once you find the gremlin, please remember to post the solution so others may benefit from your experience.

that's why I never add any oil either. ps... anyone have any idea what that grinding sound coming from my engine is?

call me crazy but I have reservations about adding anything to my crankcase that is designed to bond to the cylinder walls.

be sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke and not the exhaust (180 off)

I had to slightly modify (bend) mine to fit. There is an indent in the crossmember and the bolt holes that the skids fit into are angled. I took a sledge to the skids and put a nice arc in the end and it fit fine. Oh, it was a PITA to bend them. These things are strong. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/684669/6

DAMN YOU! I just had this image flash through my head of Simon and Pezzy playing a nocturnal game of simon sez

I drove forward for a few weeks before I got mine rebuilt. I have not heard of anyone letting it go until it was completely dead but I'm sure it'll happen at the worst possible time if you decide to push your luck. My rebuild rab about 1600 at a local tranny shop that was not a big chain. for 2500, they offered to swap for a rebuilt one rather than rebuild mine. Obviously, I chose to have the downtime (4 days or so) while I saved almost a grand.

if you take your fender off, it's easy to get to. Been there, done that

I agree. If it's truely a problem, it'll happen again.