k9sar

set mine on fire pulling a boat through the mountains. Fixed mine with a baking sheet, two hot pads and a tube of silicone caulk The story...

a bad thermo would either cause overheating (stuck closed) or take a long time to heat up (stuck open). mine reads less than half on the hottest day. just a feature of the temp sensor. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it but if you really want to change your thermo, it's not too terribly hard, just a pain to get to

I think this was addressed already. Do a search for it... (ok ok... that was mean) the word "thermostat" is pretty common. I think it may even appear in someone's signature. If you expand the search and get more options, you can use more terms or narrow down the dates or topics. Even though the results look like they are just the most recent posts, if you do a close comparison, you will probably see that they are not. Additionally, if you open any of the topics and scroll through, the searched word will be highlighted. Is there something specific you are looking for about thermostats? I have a 95 as well and have been ass-deep in the engine more than once.

I used to have electrical tape wrapped on mine but I finally fixed it yesterday. 2 spacers and a little plastic trimming.

2.45 across the river in NJ. 2.65 here. but... look out... there's a hurricane heading toward the gulf. Asshats'll be running the prices up in anticipation

true. Not looking for praise here but there are several (at least) open symptom sets and it would be nice to know what the solution to those are so we can all expand our knowledge base and give constructive answers to newbies rather than guess and/or try to walk them through a diagnostic. 1. Search 2. Ask 3. If your question is answered, have a nice day. 4. If the answer is unknown and sever people hand-frucking-hold you through a frelling diagnostic Q&A and then you finally get lucky and stumble across the solution, POST IT. 'nuf said..... asshats

dents?

ouch! seems that there is a little hostility floating around. Anyway... in reference to the side topic (or the 'other' topic) here... Sometimes people use the 'this post is worthless without pics' not to be mean or to be lazy but to inquire if there is photographic documentation available to assist in the resolution. Perhaps someone should create a "Got any pics for clarification?" emo. I don't think Steve (correct me if I'm wrong) meant his post to be an insult directed personally at you or your ability to purchase or use a camera. carry on... nothing to see here. oh... and let us know how it works out for ya.

Sounds like they may try to total it. In my experiences, the insurance company will total the vehicel if the estimate is greater than 70% of the fair market value. Sometimes less. Since repairs ALWAYS cost more than the estimate (by design), the add-on adjustment that the insurance company ends up paying needs to keep the total less than the FMV or they will be losing money. Sucks for the vehicle owner but it's true. I dod some research, determined FMV for my pathy then worked with the adjuster to write it up with aftermarket or salvage parts, leave certain things out (like my bull-bar) etc to keep it barely under the 'total' amount. I also told him that I planned to get up to FMV in the repairs by having the shop fix everything and use new parts etc as long as the adjustment + the estimate did not exceed the FMV. Any adjustment by the shop needs to be approved by the adjustment agency so it's good if they're aware of what's going on. Depending on how comfortable you are with doing repairs, you can always let them total it, buy it as salvage from them and do the repairs yourself (junkyard parts etc). For things that you may not be able to handle, like a new inner fender wall being welded on, you could probably find a body shop that will do 'some' repairs for you while leaving most of the busy work (disassemble/assemble) to you and saving you money. If you plan on keeping the pathy until it's dead, you shouldn't care about having a salvage title or not. I'm also not sure what that would do for your rates. Hope some of this helps. Good luck

this may be a first.... I 100% agree with you! buncha f'ing ingrates!

too small for the t-bar retainer snappy. never seen them before though. perhaps crawling through some FSM diagrams of suspension or drivetrain parts.

insulation between the baking pan and the carpet (and my feet) since the original paddign had burnt away

I used a baking sheet, a tube of silicone caulking and a couple of silicone hot-pads. It even passed inspection.

it's kinda obvious when the "from" says CANADA. I cut some slack when a WD's involved.

Just don't let me catch you near a mud puddle with your window down

1. sounds like you have that under control. 2. sounds like the ignition switch. Take a look around (search button ). I think there was a writeup on how to fix this rather than replace it. Take a look at this thread though. There seems to be a differeny problem popping up frequently http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry209836 3. No info from me as I am running stock 31's on mine. Check the local laws though. I have heard of people getting in trouble if their tires extend out beyone the body or flairs. If it's purely an offroad vehicle, no problem, but check the street-legal aspect. Good luck!

brake fluid and check your fusable link for the headlight issue (if it's not the switch)

Jim's nissanpathfinders.com home page seems to be a bit sparse. No more links to member info, no more link to here, not much of anything. Almost wants me to modify my window sticker to be npora.ipbhost.com rather than www.nissanpathfinders.com

ummm... selling your child ain't the answer man! besides, it's illegal. Just because you can't get him into a K class is no reason to get rid of him.

Getting the pan off will be a bitch unless you hike up the engine or remove a cross member. Once you have the pan out, the crank is fairly easy to get to. I'd send you mine but I spun a main bearing on it (which is why it sits in my garage). Grab a 95 FSM online (PM me if you need it) and take a look before you start tearing into it. I think the first step is "remove engine" but I could be wrong. Did mine on the bench (so to speak) since I was swapping engines.

I had to enlarge the opening in the plastic mounting thingies in my doors in order to get my speakers to sit in there snugly. I also had to heat and push out the back a bit to accomodate the depth. Not hard, just made a mess with the plastic shavings and a dremel. No pics but I have the passenger door to do yet so maybe I'll snap a few.

comes with a big bottle of snake-oil

yea... driveshafts look like this:

I threw a pair of 5x7 pioneer cheapo's from Walmart into the front doors and they sound MUCH better than the gaping holes I had there before. I guess it's all in your point of reference.