k9sar

I put new ones in the doors of my 95. I had to cut away at the plastic mounting housing a little bit to accomodate for the lip of the speaker cone and I had to heat and push the back out to make room for the magnet but it wasn't that hard to make them fit. Even if it were a hack job, with the grills on, you can't tell

if you're gonna get a caR50, look for one with a hot little redhead in it. I hear they really scream.

unless you drive around wih a bunch of fat people

tranny oil is red... engine oil is... yuk it sounds like your rear seal is leaking a bit.

you can leak all you want without any problems as long as you make sure the oil level is good. Problem is that you are complaining about the oil smell. So... you can either fix the problem, live with the problem, or get creative about a solution. 1. really strong air freshener (or really good bean burritos depending on the aroma you are going for) 2. fashion a drip pan or shield to keep it off the exhaust 3. drill and tap the housing where the oil collects and run some tubing to let it drain somewhere else 4. etc....

what was the time span between the starter replacements? Were they new or refurbs? Look at the common point... many starters, single electrical system. I would chase the voltages first and make sure you are getting what's expected on the trigger wire and only when you want it. When you pulled your old starters, did you happen to bench test them either yourself or at a local autozone or such? If it isn't cranking and you pull it, slap 12V to the big lug, ground the case to the body then run a jumper over to the solenoid and it screams like a scared little girl, you have a problem in your elec circuit.

hell... my drivers side floor is a cookie sheet and some hot pads held in place with a tube of caulk. Been that way for years now.

there are a couple of things that could be going on. first... there could be a bad connection in the trigger wire from the starting circuit through the inhibitor relay (I think there's one) and to the starter solenoid. If this is bad, the starter will work just fine sometimes but not even click other times. READ HERE second... there could be a problem in the starter itself. If carbon buildup has fouled the commutator or armature coils, you can disassemble it and clean it and most likely get more life. there is a picture HERE third... it could be a failed solenoid which does not release the circuit when you release the key. This would keep the starter going when you don't expect it. Another couse of this could be a failed ignition switch that is making contact to the start circuit when the key is off. Check for voltage on the 'trigger' wire at the starter with the key off and the starter running (if this happens again) If you have 12V on the small wire, the problem is in the circuit. If no 12V, the problem is in the starter/solenoid. take a look at this for troubleshooting purposes: READ HERE

the last timing belt I put on, if I had followed the directions, would ahve ruined my motor. They put lines and arrows on it to indicate direction, spacing, etc but something seemed wrong when I went to position it. The instructions said to put the arrows 'in' and if I did that, the marks were way off. IF I flipped it over and pointed the arrows out, it was fine. Most important part is the number of teeth between the cams sprockets and to the drive shaft. Get that right and screw the markings.

there are really 3 things to look for... length, diameter and wire size. Typically, jeep springs have a tapered pigtail on them that will need to be rebent or removed before they will fit. I believe the diameter is something on the order of 4 inches or such, the length is around 19 inches but if you want lift, you need to have a wire thickness greater than .52 inches. The reason we specify the JGC springs as 'fitting' is because they are a V8 and typically have a thicker wire diameter to take the weight. Althought there are lots of springs out there that will pohysically be able to be put on the back of a pathy, you may get little or no lift (or even sag) if you choose the wrong set. The sizes I mentioned are just from memory so don't go by that. Read the thread that has that info and look athte specs rather than where they came from.

good point.

typically the water pump, timing belt, t-stat, cam seals, ps belt, AC belt, alt belt all get done at the same time when you need ot do the water pump. The t-belt does not require removal of the rear cover so you can skip the cam seals and water pump of you think they are ok.

or crappy fuel.

I'd swear it was a UCA issue. that's quite a bit of neg camber. The tie rods won't do that. Looks like the UCA is not OEM and, if it were a replacement after the pothole, I'd say you got the wrong one. If it was there before the incedent, look real close at the mounts and see if anything looks bent compared to the other wheel. Also, take some measurements and see where things differ. It may isolate what is wrong.

ever since my 95 overheated and caught fire (a long story), it has been consistently only reading about 1/8 (barely above C) in the winter and slightly higher in the summer. Even while sitting in bumper to bumper traffic. I've noticed that the air coming out of the vent is not as hot as I would like. All my fluid levels are fine. Guess mine is just very efficient at dispersing heat.

needs dirt. trucks aren't happy without dirt

there is some goofy law in Japan where they have to replace the motor after some unreasonably low number of miles. Then they get freighted over here to the US and sold.

indicators of blowby or bad seals are; foamy oil light brown oil (contains really really tiny bubbles) puff of blue smoke from exhaust upon decelleration puff of blue smoke from exhaust on accelleration oil in breather hoses or air filter If any/all of these occur, you can narrow down where the problem may be. Definately do a compression test. Check the pressure then dump about a teaspoon of oil into the plug hole and test again. My truck (a 95) barely gets off the cold mark even when sitting in traffic jams. I've replaced the temp sensor on the thermo housing and there was no change. Maybe she's just running that cool and stop saying ya'll

heheheh... a "donation", right?

Just for fun... I went back and looked at what it would cost to replace my strap that has gotten a fair amount of use. They're now on sale for $74 or so. Good thing I bought 2 of them when they were $20.

if it's nothing that will be in your way, I oput the bolts back int he holes after removing the accessory or bracket. Ones that ened to be left out get put in baggies and labeled a digital camera is good to help figure out where all those little hoses go etc. If you are going to take something apart and it looks like there would be ANY question on how it went back together... snap a pic

aftermarket through partsamerica (the supplier for many parts stores such as advanceauto.com)

part number NB635 $19.99 (for my 95)

In the winter, along with my normal strap, I have a heavy-equipment tiedown chain that I found out in new Mexico. I'll always stop to pull someone out of the ditch or snow unless they seem to have too much damage to be able to continue to drive. All for free but I have them crawl under to attach the strap to their vehicle. With payment comes responsibility. Stronger case against me if I charged someone and yanked their bumper off their little rice burner. Another reason I let them hook it up.

advance auto parts, rock auto, etc. any of those places have them for a lot less