k9sar

The VG30I from 1988 had a square tooth application... looks like yours has either a round tooth belt or a worn square tooth. Your cams look round tooth but I can't tell on your crank. Anywah, the key is your timing cover. Take a look at the pics in this thread to see how the wide pump fits (and I can tell that your block should have one from the flat surfaces to the left of your water pump. The wnd of the water pump actually seals the timing belt area. If you have the covers for the wide pump and someone threw on a little pump, you would have an opening above the tensioner where crap and water would get into the timign cover and... from the looks of your cam sprockets... it has. thread with pics of front of VG30E (same block as VG30I) oooohhh I just had a terrible thought... perhaps the previous owner snapped off a water pump bolt and chose to put the smaller one on rather than extract the bolt so the right one could be installed. hmmmm.....

I have several other years (including models other than the pathy) but not the complete set. I was going to fix that then I discovered that my 'source' had implemented new security measures and my exploited vulnerability point no longer worked. Guess it's hack-time.

The knock sensor typically will be the result of a different problem causing the truck to run rich or lean depending on the problem. When ti runs like crap, the knock sensor has issues. Fix the first code first.

The 'wings' on the wide water pump do nothing but provide a mount surface for the timing cover. The only part that actually seals is what you have on your water pump. The one for the 2wd is like yours, the long one is for 4wd.

I have the full 94, the 94 update and the 95 suppliment. I can host them temporarily if you want to download or I can snail-mail you a CD for a couple bucks to cover postage.

I just had my auto rebuilt for the second time. 160k miles on the truck. I'm a bit rough on the trannys

well.. it is an interference engine. The Dayco part number is 95249. don't know how that cross references to your number

when I do a compression test, I watch the needle and let it pulse at least three times before taking the reading (even longer if it seems to still be making significant increase) to make sure you are catching the compression stroke as opposed to exhaust. Even a little oil will smoke like a sonofabitch. Make your plugs pretty (brush the carbon off etc) and run it for a bit. If there is a specific cylinder that is burning oil, the plugs will tell you which one. Once you isolate the cylinder and if the compression test is good, I woudl then focus on valve seals.

what's the worst that can happen.... oh yea... the engine could eat itself

for what it's worth, I worked at a K-mart a long time ago and one of the employees went to run an errand, got into her car and drove away. She locked the car and did her shopping. When she got back to the car, she couldn't get in it. Turns out it was the same make and model but 1 year different (same color) and belonged to someone else who worked there. Her key would work in the ignition but not the door. Had the car been locked initially or if she had payed closer attention, she wouldn't have gotten herself stranded.

count the number of tumblers for an ignition (flats on the key) and you can determine the number of variations available. If that number is less than the number of vehicles made with that lock type (perhaps all years WD21, etc), then there MUST be duplicates. If the number of variations is less, there MAY be duplicates.

*snicker* I have pics of a few things myself. heheheh

(from memory... better to check your FSM) center mark is 0 degrees each other mark is + or - 5 degrees timing light on cylinder 1 set to 5 drgreed before TDC see page EF-EC 24 in the FSM (there's even a picture) check your index for Ignition TIming Inspection (not just Timing)

and don't overtorque your tensioner.

10 to 1 your knock sensor is not a problem. Typically, it is triggering becuase your truck runs rough due to another issue. Save that for last unless you are there already. Post what you find in your analysis. I still have a few injectors left from my other engine so I may be able to help in that respect. The FSM has fairly good diagnostic procedures on how to test each code and component. You can find the 94 online or PM me and I'll host one online for you to download. If you have a slow connection or download limitation, I can burn a CD and mail one for a couple bucks to cover shipping. and Welcome!

anyone know if the lifters have a check valve for holding pressure and adjustment? My dodge lifters do and the tick is almost nonexistent. As things wear out, the lifters adjust their length and hold it via a rear chamber with a ball check-valve inside it. If there is nothing to hold the lifters at length then you will get tapping as the oil pressure builds and 'inflates' them. maybe I'll tear one apart and take a look. If they do have an adjustment mechanism, it may have failed and a replacement might be needed. Not trying to set-off any alarms telling you to replace your lifters, just thinkign about possible causes for an abnormal tick.

too many strip searches?

I applaud you smokers who actually use your ashtray (unless you then empty it onto the road). I have gotten out of my truck at traffic lights when some asshole threw a lit butt out their window, picked it up and said "you dropped this" as I tossed it in through their window. Did that to some bitch in a BMW last week.

the trick is to make sh!t not look like it's sh!t. An x-ray that shows blocks of stuff in odd places is bound to draw attention.

that would be the metal slamming against metal

my cupholder is either my crotch or whomever is riding with me.

if you spun a bearing, what are you worried about your timing belt etc for? I spun a bearing on my pathy. It was the main bearing, upper half (connecting rod side) of piston number 3. A couple of things happened with that... the oil feed hole in the piston shaft (connecting rod) was full of metal and not injecting oil up to the rings and there was apparetnly damage to the bearing caps or connecting rod. I tore it down, drilled the crap out of the oil hole, did not see any damage to the crank shaft so I just replaced the bearings. When I fired her up again, it started fine but was making a soft knocking sound that got progressivly louder as the small looseness in that bearing was enough to allow the piston to hammer the bearing flat and wide against the crankshaft on each power stroke. Before too long, it sounded just like it did when I spun the bearing. I replaced the engine at that point. My advice... if you rebuild, and I recommend it, take your time and replace not only the bearings but the cap and connecting rod on the one that spun. Mic the crankshaft to be sure there isn't significant wear unless you are replacing the crankshaft also. If there is wear, I believe you can get slightly overthick bearings to compensate. Use plastigauge to be sure you don't have play and end up like I did. Good luck

FSM should have a tooth count listed. They do for the pathy

sorry... thought yours might be like mine. The rust is in the center and not near the attachment points etc. I have duct tape over mine to keep the water out until I can pickup some sheet metal to glue in.

if it runs like crap, jiggle the MAF sensor connector and wire and see if it makes a difference (while running if possible). I had that issue as well.