PattiMax

Just joined too.

As you can see Josie is riding shot gun where she belongs. I wouldn't have it any other way. She's a fantastic girl.

I just happened to stumble on this tonight and I could only wish I could donate as much as NPORA has help me. This is just a very small way of giving back and saying a big thank you to all for the help that has been sent my way right here. It's a great group of people here.

Where you can ohm out your fuel injectors. (VG30E) Disconnect the middle harness connectors, the two that I disconnected were the bottom two of a group of four connected to the engine control harness. From there you can ohm out the harness as well as each of your injectors. The picture shows which terminals to put your probes on to check each cylinder's injector. Each should ohm out between 10-14 ohms. I hope this is clearer than mud. ohm out injectors

Follow up here and it looks like the verdict is in and Slick's the WINNER. But I had a lot of help from the manual from K9sar. I finally got back into checking this issue out and it looks like I have 4 bad fuel injectors. They should ohm out between 10-14 ohms and only 2 did. It's not running yet as I still have to find some affordable injectors now. I will also take a few pics and post of how and where I was able to ohm them out. Once again, Thanks.

Thanks K9. That is better and more complete than what I had before. I was able to get it started and it ran very poorly. It will not even idle. I do feel it is more fuel related as I have to keep the gas pedal 1/2 way down to keep it barely running and it is missing something terrible. I'm thinking Slick might be on top of it with the fuel injector issue. I am going to check fuel pressure and rule a few other things out first but have I have so little time to work on it. That is why the delays of reporting back with my findings here. My Maximum ended up being the battery. That is the first time I have seen a car crank as good as it did and still fail to start as it should. I had to be dropping the voltage from the battery just enough that would some how keep it from firing up and running. Another lesson learned.

Thanks K9sar. Naw, no dialup here, it took about 20 seconds. I'll check it out later tonight as my 03 Max failed to start for me last night. Priorities ya know with it being the wife's car. That is a first for me in 5 years of owning this Max and never had any type of problem.

I also loosened the hose between the rails in hopes that it might bleed any trapped air but I guess not. Worth a shot I guess.

I looked in what info I have and found each of the connectors for the injectors. But what I can't find or read is the harness connectors for all the injectors. (101E or 102E or 103E or 104E). I found your response k9sar to a post "Need help, trouble codes 21 and 51" but was unable to read the procedure to the connector numbers. Thanks for the help so far.

Are there any thoughts on a 51 Injector Circuit. ECU Flash Code. I was able to get that code from the ECU. The beast would hardly keep running and runs extremely rich until last night when I could not get it running. I do know it has old gas so I'll get some fresh gas in it. I tried to get it started last night to check the the MAF wiring/connection but the battery was shot. The MAF sensor has just been cleaned and seems to be fine when I ohmed it out meaning I didn't get an open reading between A,B and C. The hood is not an issue as it has been open during all of this. The fuel filter was also recently changed. Does the fuel system need to be bled in some special way? I thought I read that here somewhere. Anyway, long story short is that it has mainly been sitting for close to 2 years. I replaced the starter and did a body lift. I also replaced some of the cracked vacuum lines.

I was thinking mine was like a charcoal gray with a touch of rust here and there and here and there and ..... I'm soooooo confused as it's not one of my multiple guesses. Man I hate tests. I'm so confused. It might be that "other" color. We are not having this tallied in FL are we?

Dumb newbee question here. Would a dana 44 out of a 93 dodge ram 150 with 3.90 gears an open diff be any good for a SAS? If not what should I be looking for?

The directions in the AC kit that I got from 4x4part.com says for 86-90 uses 10x180mm. My 94 took a bigger and longer bolt than that (no idea on the size now). Those were added to my kit before it shipped. If you are sure that is what you need then you are welcome to mine just for the shipping.

Here are a few pics of my cancer run amuck ..(is that really a word?). I was figuring about the same wall thickness as well. I measured the thickness at a good point on the other side where it is still very sound and if I remember it right it was about 3mm. My daughter and three grandkids are moving back in this week-thru-weekend so there goes some time but we'll get there just longer than I had hoped.n It will all be worth it.

It's not looking to promising now. Looks like I have a major frame rust issue on the right rear of my rig. After replacing the gas tank inlet and vent hoses I got to digging around the rust in front of my face. For about 4-6 inches or so I now only have one of the four sides to my box frame in the very rear. I feel it's not safe enough to take out and play until I fix that. I'll post some pics later. I'm so totally bummed. I was on pace to being able to make it too. I know there will be others but this was going to be my first and it being so near as well. But wonders never cease and never say never ............. hmmmmm.